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Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2004 3:33 am
by vrg3
Oh, way cool. I can't wait to see pictures after you have it in! :)

Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2004 3:43 am
by azn2nr
the turbo is sitting on top of my speakers in my garage. its gonna be a month or two because its gonna be a pain to hook it up with out an intercooler. i sill need the silicone elbow, oil return line, inlet gasket, down pipe + rebunged o2, and various heater hose for the pcv and coolant extention. after it goes in its going down to a local exaust shop for fmic pipes. on that side i still need a 3 ft piece of angle iron to secure it more and grind down a little more of the skid plate.

Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2004 3:47 am
by vrg3
Sounds like you're planning the project well. Cool.

About the elbow... they can be expensive, so I was actually thinking of just buying a short length of 2.25" stick hose, making a 45-degree cut in it, and readhering it together with room temperature vulcanizing silicone sealant or something. Since it doesn't need to handle high pressure it probably would work, and would be a very tight 90-degree bend.

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2004 3:10 am
by azn2nr
im gonna try the elbow first then if that doestn work than ill thy the stick hose. money before hassle for me

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2004 4:11 am
by vrg3
Cool. Where were you planning on picking the elbow up from?

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2004 5:17 am
by azn2nr
ebay or my local shop whoever is cheaper. the guys at the local place are out of town so ill have to wait till they get back for a price

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2004 11:02 am
by -K-
I've found it's good to check with the Ausies about stuff like that. In fact I'd bet MRT has the elbow you'd need and could tell you what turbos will or won't work.
The idea about cutting at a 45 doesn't sound so good to me. You want a smooth flow of air into the turbo not sharp edges.

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2004 2:11 pm
by vrg3
Well, I'm not sure a smooth elbow would work... I think you'd have to get an elbow with a not-quite-smooth bend even if you were going pre-molded. There isn't a lot of room.

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2004 12:42 pm
by -K-
It is a tight bend. That's why Subaru went to the straight in under the mainfold intake. In fact I'd like to go that way, maybe get a 97 WRX engine....one of those stand alone ECU's that come with a map to run said engine....
Back to reality, MRT puts a note to call them for 90deg inlet help on all the VF turbos.

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2004 2:40 pm
by dzx
Why not just build an EJ22T block with wrx heads and intake manifold with some custom pistons to get the CR back to where you want it.

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2004 4:05 pm
by -K-
I'm pretty impressed with the 22t heads. I pulled them a while ago to replace the head gaskets and I was supprised at how good they look. I'd rather spend my time and money on fuel+ECU. I know I'm being held back by the stock ECU.

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 3:11 am
by dzx
Good idea, ecu is pretty important.

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 4:18 am
by georryan
I agree on the ecu bit. Kelley was telling me about the kind of results he got by replacing the ecu, I don't even think he really suffered on emissions that much.

Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 5:39 am
by azn2nr
ecu will be here soon enough. i just need one with a base map and map selector without using a laptop.

Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 8:14 am
by -K-
There is an ecu with a base map for us? I was thinking a ecu with a EJ20G base map bould be a good start.

Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 9:00 am
by azn2nr
thats the thing there isnt. you have to start with something and tune form there. i can pay for an ecu but i dont have a laptop and dyno time is soo expensive so i am limted to maps that you can download off the internet.

Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 9:26 am
by dzx
Kelly was working on a base map for the turbo legacy, it should be done by now.

Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 9:34 am
by -K-
That's the biggest reason I've been thinking about an engine swap. That and the end play in my engine... I know it would be easy to get the power I want with a JDM engine, plug and play. But I love the low end of the EJ22T and know it "could" give me what I want...

Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
by Tleg93
Bumping this to ask a question.

What is the size of the copper washer on the oil inlet hose? I was reading this post and didn't think I saw anything that addressed it.

Thanks.

Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 5:27 pm
by vrg3
On the turbo side they're 10mm. You need two of them; one goes on each side of the banjo. Be sure you have the old ones off.

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 3:08 am
by Tleg93
These are proving to be difficult to find. I went to Lowe's, Advanced Auto Parts, AA Auto Parts and another local hardware store, none of them had it. Lowe's had standard size copper washers. Advanced had ones that were too large. AA didn't have any and the hardware store didn't have any. What the hell is going on in this place?

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 5:14 am
by azn2nr
i couldnt find them either. so i just bucked up and paid the money to the stealearship for them

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 5:26 am
by vrg3
Most likely your Advance does actually have them.

Try looking in the HELP! section; sometimes you'll find them there. Or sometimes they're by the oil drain plugs.

Many auto parts stores have them in boxes behind the counter or in the back. Typically the people working there either are scared of those boxes or don't know about them.

If you have to, you can re-anneal the washers you have now. Heat them until they glow and then quench them with water. As long as this hasn't been done too many times before, the washers will then be usable again.

Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 1:11 am
by Tleg93
Ok, so I finally got to check it out. It turns out that whoever owned the car before me and tore out the turbo, never put the washers on right. They put both of them on top of the banjo bolt. :roll:

I took them off, heated them up and put them on right and voila, no burning oil. I just hope I didn't do any real damage. The turbo still works at least.