legacycentral bbs

I don't know. I've never done a cambelt job. But it was my understanding that as long as you got the alignment marks on the three pulleys to have the correct belt tooth count between them, all would be well.

I'm looking at a figure in the FSM that shows each sprocket's alignment mark lining up with a notch in the timing belt cover, but it doesn't seem to show any part of one sprocket lining up with another sprocket. In fact, the arrow on the passenger side sprocket is pointed off at some random angle.

This is different, but look at the last page of this article:

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf

Here's the diagram I was looking at (it's on the 2nd page):

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics/cambelt.pdf

I guess I'm not being clear. They do not line up in relation to each other they line up with the marks (notches) on the cover. I just am saying that the crank is lined up correctly wit hthe mark above it and when it is the cams have the arrows pointing up at the notches in the cover, when it should be the little lines on the cams that are pointing up at those notches. None of the sprockets have lines that line up with each other. Know what I'm saying?

Ok, I just looked at the link you gave and yes, that is how it SHOULD look. The arrow you see on the left cam sprocket is actually pointing straight up where the little line should be. The crank sprocket is in it's correct position though. So it's off about an 1/8th of a turn on both cams.

!

How does that happen?

If all I have to do is line the marks back up and get the belt on with the right amount of teeth between the marks then that's no problem what so ever. I can do that easy. I just want to be sure that that is right and that the crank and cams will be timed correctly simply by lining up the marks, installing the belt correctly and nothing else.

okay nvm i reread and now understand what was going on.

vrg3 wrote:!

How does that happen?

I don't know! That's why I thought it must be intentional at first but remembered that the cam sprockets are keyed so it couldn't be that someone just installed them wrong. Which is what I thought when I first saw it.

Well it's possible that jason did line it up to the arrows if he did a timing belt job. Maybe he thought that was the right way.

THAWA wrote:okay nvm i reread and now understand what was going on.

Haha, I just went to respond to your first post and the quote changed when I went into the post reply window.

gotta be quick

I don't think Jason did his own work.

I've been finding numurous problems with the way things were set up on the BJ Legacy. Some of which were incredibley dangerous.

More on that later...

well whoever did the work, maybe they did it this way. Between what you and vikash have said I think it could be possible that if the belt was replaced someone lined up to the arrows instead of the notches.

Yeah, Jason had a shop do it because the water pump needed replacement ASAFP and he didn't have time to mess around with it. It seems plausible that the shop might have lined it up with the arrows instead of the notches, but both Jason and Phil experienced the car running well before the collision... Odd.

Ya, it's odd because the cams are lined up perfect with the arrows. I don't know, it's weird.

I guess I'm just looking for confirmation that as long as the belt is correctly installed with the sprockets correct marks, in the correct position relative to the marks on the belt cover, everything will be all right. I'd like to have it back together tomorrow.

How far off are the arrows from the real marks? Maybe it wasn't off enough to cause serious driveability issues. As long as you line up all the marks and count the teeth, you should be fine.

Steve

In my experience being off by only a couple teeth means you have no chance of things running well. Perhaps the ECU can adjust to make things run half-decent, but 1/8 rotation sounds to me like you would have had virtually no compression.

water under the bride now, though. Good thing its not an interference motor...

You guys missed the obvious, all you need to do is thread a piece of rope in the sparkplug hole, the piston then hits the rope and locks the crank in place allowing you to undo the bolt, that's what I did, and it worked great.
Frazer

Little update:

Cleaned the front of the engine up, cleaned an amazing amount of grime off the top of the block and heads, replaced rear timing belt covers, put in new cam sprocket (thanks Steve!) fixed timing, installed new timing belt, and got my '92 wiring harness snaked through to all the proper places.

I didn't have my camera with me so no pics yet but I'll take a couple for kicks tomorrow. The front of the engine cleaned up pretty good.

I still need to replace the cam, crank and knock sensor's. The wiring is hacked up on them pretty good. The knock sensor was installed in a hole on the rear bell housing over the flywheel. It wasn't doing anythiing up there. It had a weird bushing on it too. It was metal on the one side, the side against the knock sensor, but rubber on the side that was to the block. So it wasn't even in contact with the block at all. It was weird.

I made pretty good progress though.

Awesome, that's really encouraging.

You can run without a knock sensor for a short period of time if need be. Though I guess it'd be silly to wait until the engine's in the car before reaching into the pit of despair.

Are you just gonna transfer the cam and crank sensors from your original engine? If you do that you'll have all your original wiring, right?

Ya, I'll probably end up just transfering all three over, I guess.

The knock sensor location on the BJ engine was seriously under about an inch and a half of oil, dirt, leaves and cicada's! Haha. I still have to clean it up to be able to install the knock sensor correctly. The metal at the spot where it's supposed to go is filthy.

With the other sensors, there must have been ground issues with the BJ wiring cause all of the grounds are cut on the sensors and looked to have been hard wired bypassing the connectors.

The PCV and coolant piping is all hacked up weird too. Pretty much all of that stuff has got to go.

I'm gettin' there though.

I hate dealing with bad wiring issues. I refused to do the electrical work in the marina owner's useless E-Type (burned likely by someone not realizing it's + earth, rat chewed behind the dash panel, and Ricky Rretardo hand twist & electrical taped) unless he bought a new harness and wanted me to rewire the whole thing. As far as I'm concerned, that's the only way to deal with monkey'd wiring.

Steve

Here's a couple quick pics of the engine with the new cam sprocket, new rear timing belt covers, cleaned engine and new timing belt.

Looks pretty good:




Oh, and here's a little taster of some of tghe straight up dangerous things I/we found on the BJ Legacy.

These are GR2's with GC8 Tein springs on Legacy perches! Stay away from Z1 performance if this is the way they set up cars!




I should probably just start a new thread about what I'm doing since I've moved past what this thread was about initially.