Problems wiring the swap.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 5:05 am

Yes, hopefully. :) Let us all know what comes of it!

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 2:50 pm

A teeeny update for ya. Installe dthe n/a ecu, the only error code i pulled was 49 "incorrect MAF sensor."

Now i just need to wait for UPS to drop off the new ECU, they've got 1.5hrs.

MK

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 4:29 pm

Ooh, and it is the wrong MAF sensor!

Exciting....

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 5:14 pm

Good news: I installed the new ECU

Bad news: Engine won't start. I had it going for about 15 seconds, was running really rough and shaking, then died. since then i can't get it started again. Imma pull error codes, see what i can find.

I'm going to have to go into work soon though

MK

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:11 pm

Oh yes, so sososososo close, can you tell my excitement?

Rough running was near dead battery and the pass side plug wires were reversed, oops

The car starts great now. It however does not idle. if i keep it gassed to above 1.5k rpms it will be OK, sounds awesome. however if i let it idle down, it will sputter and die. The only error code i get is for the knock sensor, i checked it out, the housing is cracked, I will swap on my old knock sensor after work (leaving the batt off so the ecu resets).

MK

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:43 pm

great stuff

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 4:46 am

Ooh, soo close...

Reversed plug wires will definitely cause bad running. =)

When you hold it at a high idle (1500-2000 RPM) does it seem to run completely smoothly as it should, or does it still sputter a little?

I doubt the knock sensor is responsible for the engine dying at idle, but you could try just running without it.

Those symptoms are a lot like those of a vacuum leak, actually. Do you think your intake tubing might have a little leak in it somewhere? Examine the whole thing closely, particularly the blowoff valve and IAC valve plumbing.

If you can't see any leaks visually, you could try blocking the throttle partway open to hold a speed of about 1500 RPM just to keep the engine running, and then spraying starting fluid around the intake to see if you can make the engine speed change. Matt and I were recently discussing this method in another thread; do a quick search if you're unfamiliar with the technique.

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 8:06 pm

vrg3, yeah, i've been keeping up on that thread too. It does run great, and is fine since i turned up the throttle so it idles at about 1.5k

I also have to deal with my ultra leaking rear main seal, i must have damaged it during replacement.

Mk

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:27 pm

That's really weird that it would run fine when you make it idle high... Maybe it is the IAC valve.

That sucks about the seal. How hard is it to change?

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:39 pm

The rear main seal involves dropping the tranny, then removing torque converter and flexplate. the seal is right around the end of the crankshaft, I'm 95% that's where it is leaking, and it leaks REALLY bad.

MK

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 7:29 pm

Any news on the idling problem?

Sucks about the seal... Maybe you could take the opportunity to upgrade to a higher stall speed torque converter though? (trying to find the silver linings)

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 8:11 pm

or you could just scratch the whole auto idea and go on to a 5spd

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Thu Oct 16, 2003 2:35 am

Just got the seal done today. Idle problem is still there, haven't gotten a chance to work on it.

I'm strapped for cash at the moment, so new TC or tranny etc.. is out of the question.

While driving home from the shop i blew the intake tube off the throttle body

But after i retightened it seemed to work fine.

No CELs yet.

MK

Psychoreo · Post by **Psychoreo** » Fri Oct 07, 2005 4:38 pm

back from the dead, but..... when swapping the wires for the crank/cam sensors, is there a way to unplug them from the harness and swap them around or should i cut and solder them? I'm going to splice and solder the power for the other sensors because crimping would be....just dumb.

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 4:56 am

Yes you can remove them from the harness. I played with a spare harness I had to figure out how to remove them. It's a little hard to explain, but you stick a flat head screw driver in the back side and press a certain way. This moves the clip holding the pin in, and allows the pin to come out.

I wouldn't say it's easy. It took me a little while tinkering around with it to figure out how to do it. If you have a spare connector laying around, try and practice with it.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 3:07 am

Yeah, definitely just switch the pins in the harness.

Crimping is fine if it's done correctly. All wire-to-wire joints on the car are crimped.

Richard · Post by **Richard** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 4:29 am

Wow! This thread was revived a week short of being two years old.

spinmastert · Post by **spinmastert** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:56 pm

I'll be doing this soon, I may need help!

93legacylsleeper · Post by **93legacylsleeper** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:06 pm

Real useful thread here. Im planning doing this swap soon as well^ EJ22T into 91 Legacy L 5-sp. Got the Complete Engine harness and Turbo ECU. Based on what i've read here it sounds like it would be easier to keep the N/A engine harness and swap for the Turbo ECU? Just run a couple wires for the cam/crank angle sensors and other turbo spec stuff. Is there a layman explanation for how this has to be done or a step by step? If not ill write one up as I perform the swap along with photo's.

WagonMafia · Post by **WagonMafia** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:08 am

93legacylsleeper wrote:Real useful thread here. Im planning doing this swap soon as well^ EJ22T into 91 Legacy L 5-sp. Got the Complete Engine harness and Turbo ECU. Based on what i've read here it sounds like it would be easier to keep the N/A engine harness and swap for the Turbo ECU? Just run a couple wires for the cam/crank angle sensors and other turbo spec stuff. Is there a layman explanation for how this has to be done or a step by step? If not ill write one up as I perform the swap along with photo's.

Ya! do that! Please! Im a super straight forward step by step do exactly at instructed kind of person. I just got my motor out of my 92 4EAT SS and got it torrn down tot he block and heads so i can start cleaning and rebuilding. New gaskets, maybe a waterpump and possibly new rings and main bearings. Be my swap buddy? lol

93legacylsleeper · Post by **93legacylsleeper** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:03 am

If only you knew my luck. I went to go get this 91 legacy L 5speed from some girl. I asked her through e-mail if it was a 5 speed and she confirmed it was a manual. I drove 1.5 hours to go pick up the car and get ready for the swap. I get all the way there and its a 4EAT. SO BUMMED. But I think it was for the better cause now i'm getting a 93 SS 5mt. No problems. Hopefully my brother will use the spare EJ22t in his 99 Legacy GT. It sounds like your building a sweet wagon do you have a link for pics?

WagonMafia · Post by **WagonMafia** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:03 am

HELL YA! http://photobucket.com/wagonmafia

93legacylsleeper · Post by **93legacylsleeper** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:08 pm

That thing is BAD. Like the rim choice. Are those WRX brakes?

WagonMafia · Post by **WagonMafia** » Fri Dec 11, 2009 2:25 am

Front and Rear Calipers off my parts SS painted red in rear and gunmetal in the front, stock pads all around, stock SS rotors up front and WRX drilled slotted DBA Gold rotors out back. Id like to find the matching pair of rotors for the front and paint the front calipers red to match the back, unfortunately I'm deep in to my motor swap right now so I've got alot of other projects going on right now, and no spare cash to get the front DBA Gold rotors right now. Oh well, soon!

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Problems wiring the swap.