legacycentral bbs

James - My AC line looks just like that.



AC still works just fine.

really? well that's not that bad... i was looking at the first photo's and it looked different.

so, should i bother you with my whack of questions here, or via email?

lol.

Here is fine. Others may have the same questions.

jake15 wrote:

LaureltheQueen wrote:is the ignitor the thing sitting smack dab in the middle of the firewall on that bracket? Did moving it require any kind of extra wiring, or was the harness long enough to go all the way over there?

yes. if you want to move it to where he moved it, yes i believe it will require extra wiring (just lengthening) the harness will let you move it about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way to where he mounted it......

Exactly - that black electrical box in the middle/top of the firewall is the ignitor. The first place I moved it, where it died, did not require any lengthening. That's why I put it there - I was lazy This new location DOES require longer wires... but that's an easy job.

Bane wrote:hmm, then it must be a difference in the a/c line between the production years

Yeah, seems like there's a lot of different AC line setups (depending on whether its been retrofitted? year? turbo vs NA? manual vs auto?). When I popped my hood, Vikash and Phil and Matt were like "what the heck is that AC line??? did someone replace it with an NA line already???"

okay so i relocated the ignitor, moved a couple of the wires and stuff under the pitchmount, basically freeing up some more room.

So here are some questions:

1. Bacs, are you running to both ic inlets or just one side?
2. is your a/c line being held down by something or just loose and resting against the underside of the inlets and y-pipe?
3. Where is your coolant tank?
4. how much did you shave off the tb or ic?
5. what kind of bov is that?

hmmm, that's it that i can think of for now.

Bane wrote:okay so i relocated the ignitor, moved a couple of the wires and stuff under the pitchmount, basically freeing up some more room.

So here are some questions:

1. Bacs, are you running to both ic inlets or just one side?
2. is your a/c line being held down by something or just loose and resting against the underside of the inlets and y-pipe?
3. Where is your coolant tank?
4. how much did you shave off the tb or ic?
5. what kind of bov is that?

hmmm, that's it that i can think of for now.

1. BAC is running both IC inlets. So am I.

1) Both.

2) I believe it's under the pitch stop, so that's holding it down.

3) He's using a WRX tank mounted where the battery normally goes. You can see part of the metal cage that holds it in the lower right of the picture.

4) He left about one hose clamp's width on the throttle body. He didn't cut the intercooler.

5) Greddy Type S.

1) Yep. Both inlets. As far as I know, I was the first to get both inlets to properly work. Sam and Matt are both running like this now.

2) It's under the pitch stop, that holds it down enough.

3) Coolant tank is where the battery used to be. It was expensive, so do what Sam did.

4) About 1/4 inch off of the throttle body. It was JUST enough. The exact width of the throttle body, is the width of a standard size worm drive hose clamp.

5) Greddy Type-S, set up properly so it opens when it needs to.

lol, thanks guys that's pretty damn funny responding at 1 minuite apart!

Geez what a comedy of errors, i figured that moving some of that shit out of the way might make my life easier in the next few days.

turns out my speedo cable was broken and that fiddling around by the pitch mount actually disconnected it from the back of the speedo.

so after taking the instrument cluster out and discovering the problem (cable housing that surrounded the actual cable had seperated) i put everything back and slid the stupid cable inside the outer shielding that was still attached to the cluster.

plug everything back in, and the speedo is working again, lol. but now i have all my signal lights on when the car is off.

any ideas? i can definitely take it all apart again if it means reseating the stupid plugs, but i'm wondering if it has something to do with the alarm. it should flash when the alarm is set, and flash continuously if the system has been interrupted.

if i flash the hazards they work, if i turn on the signal it works, but otherwise the turn signals, sidemarkers and rear signals are on if the car is off...

any thoughts?

BAC5.2 wrote:1) Yep. Both inlets. As far as I know, I was the first to get both inlets to properly work.

nope, i dont think i'm the first either...... but mines been running with both inlets for a little over a year

so i guess i can answer some of your questions too.


1. yup, both inlets
2. a/c line was being held down by the pitching stop mount (it all fits under there with not problem.... but the compressor siezed so i yanked all of that stuff out.
3. mine is right by the air box, to the left of the power steering pump
4. i shaved both of them just past the barb thing for the hoses. so basically a 1/4 or so off of each one

hope that helps

I've been running both inlets since May I think. I don't remember when exactly I did my WRX turbo and intercooler install. I'll give you answers to numbers 3 and 4:

3) I relocated my coolant tank where my windshield washer tank used to be. Washer fluid got sacrificed for better performance.

4) I shaved probably 3/8" from the intercooler.



If you search you'll find a thread I started covering my install, with pictures. Just ask if you have any more questions. We know you will.

You flipped the switch on top of the steering wheel to turn on the parking lights, flip it off, and the lights will go off.

When we did my intercooler, we couldn't find anyone who did a write up where they had used both inlets. Wild.

oh sweet jesus thanks Bac.

i should have guessed it would be something moronic when i removed the instrument cluster... in fact i remember thinking to myself, switch that switch back.

christ what a maroon.

thanks for not gloating too much.

Hehe, we've all done it.

It happens to everyone. I've had to leave notes on cars in parking lots before, because of it. No worries.

Would it be better to run both inlets on the wrx intercooler or plug 'em and put one inlet on the left side of it? What would the difference be?

Has anyone done this?

if you plumb it right it would be worth it i think and its not to much work

I think it would be better to run both inlets. That's how it was designed to work, and it'll help make sure as much of the core gets used as possible.

Since i had very little time to install my IC, i used only one inlet and capped the other one. It works good, but running both is better.

How exactly did you guys make both inlet work, the stock plastic hose just wouldn't work one mine.

i dont have my wagon up at school right now as i am waiting to do my 5spd swap and it has no reverse... so in about 3 weeks i should be starting the swap, i can take pics then and post a miny write up about what i did. Otherwise i think i wrote a little on what it took to make it fit a few posts back in this thread. but yeah if you can get it to work i can see it being worth it.

I only used the stock y-pipe and rad. hoses because it was cheap and works for now. if you are going to spend the money and actually replumb yours i would probably take it to a custom piping / exhaust shop and have them make you a y pipe. It would probably be the most efficient way to do it. I didnt because i couldnt afford it while in school...

mhrallyteam - Look for posts by BAC5.2 and legacy92ej22t where they write about what had to be done. But basically, the plastic pipe needs to be lengthened with a little bit of steel pipe and the firewall, ignitor pedestal, and hood need to be smashed in a little.

If you make a metal y-pipe, it'll be harder to put together, IMO. I took my TMIC off and on several times before I made my metal y-pipe, now I don't want to take it back off 'cuz it was a bitch to get everything together. I used a silicone y-pipe (until I blew a hole in it) and I could flex everything around to get it on. Now, there is absolutely no flex. Just something to think about.

I'll be using the STi y-pipe soon. It will be much more reliable.

Just installed my WRX IC from ebay(50$ shipped, not bad) and I must say the difference is instantly noticeable...

how did you go about plumping it?

Just asking because im curious