legacycentral bbs

no bmxpunk i am not mocking you, why would you think like that i dont pic on no body ever ever in my life, sorry if i siad something bad. i think the ej22T motor is got to be the first 22b motor ever made then they made a slight better one for the rally or motorsport use.

about my heads my dad ported bot ends and knifed one side i dont remember what side, i will ask him what side for you.

dzx is rght about the intake side being ruff a little, it helps out my dad told me why but i forgot i will ask him for the recipe agian.

Besides the fact that 22B is a 2.2L block, like the Legacy, there is nothing else the same about the two engines.


It's like saying a 2.5RS is the first USDM STI

Try running 1 BAR through one to see what I am saying LOL BOOM

Also you leave the intake ports rough for better atomization of the fuel on it's way into the chamber.

well i my little villa im still going to think its going to be the first 22b motor, then they improved and changed a couple things.

Thanks nico. So far, I have opened the intake side a little. I also Knifed the material between the two intake ports. Did your dad open the exhaust? How much?

You're doing headwork by hand, by yourself, with no machinery, or tolerance specs?

its mostly just cleaning up the sand casting marks, you know smoothing out rough spots. I know, I am being careful. I completely understand the fact I willl probably screw something up. Just doing small stuff.

you wont screw it up, my dad did my heads by hand. when i was watching him he showed me how to do it and where to watch for things.

also when your doing it lay down the factory gasket and you can see how much you can take out on both in ext sides. he was going to go bigger becuse he siad there is room for a little more, then we would have to make gaskets up.

NICO, would you say your pnp made a dofference? If so I'd like to know some details since my heads are sitting there on the workbench with no love. I'd be up for getting a dremel.

My buddy PNP his 2.5 heads by hand and they look pimp as shit. He did the same thing with the gasket, using it as a guide for how much he could remove. He also did a 5 angle valve job and a full valvetrain rebuild. They should be nice.

He also put in forged pistons and plans to run 12-14 psi with a TD04L-13C, WRX tmic, 550cc injectors, and probably perfect power. All in a GC, I can't wait to see how it turns out.

it made a huge diffrence. as we rebuilt the motor i had to drive my dads 325il bmw to work and i would do like 240kms in that car LIKE NOTHING, then it was time to get in my car an let me tell you 220kms wth everything stock was easy smooth an reving it to redline was amazing it just whent like the motor got bigger.

did you dad match the exhaust gaskets? Thats the one I am the most worried about.

yes he matched them also.

So. . . You guys aren't having these flow-tested on a bench? Isn't that necessary -- I thought it was, and namely, the most expensive part of the process.

I'm just curious where you removed material, and how much. Putting the exhaust gasket up there makes it obvious on that side, but the intake gasket matches perfectly on the intake side. Obviously, I can remove material from inside, but which part and how much is what I'm wondering.

tris91ricer wrote:So. . . You guys aren't having these flow-tested on a bench? Isn't that necessary -- I thought it was, and namely, the most expensive part of the process.

My buddy might of had his flow tested since his professor was helping him out with the project. He's in Auto Tech at Penn Tech.

See I am worried and hesitant about removing that much material on the exhaust side. The theory is that the "step" between the exhaust and the head is there for low end torque. Most people say leave that alone. Especially if you ask like THawa and vrg3. So I aM lost. my intake side didnt match up too well. so I cleaned it up some and I shrpened or knifed that little divider between the two intake vlaves. I may open mine a bit but another guy I spoke with made a good point:

"no, i'm not going out to the gasket circumference on the exhaust ports.
as you observed, that is a LOT of material. you want a little bit of a
lip there to help prevent any reversion thru the ports."


so I dont know.

I don't remember whether I ever gave advice on this point, but if I did, I was probably citing Mike Shields:

http://www.spdusa.com/presents.htm

I think it was you and thawa, however i could be wrong. You were warning me that I could screw up my exhaust system and especially lose low end torque when I matched the gasket on my exhaust manifold. At the time I thought some thing was back ward and just didnt seem right, but after reading MIkes info it makes more sense. Some of his logic doesn't make sense to meon a few things, but he is the one with the tuning shop and there are definately more knowledgable people on this forum than I. I am just a shadetree mechanic who wonders to and from garages barrowing tools since I lack both.

So here is a theory. I think this might work. SO the step is important for lowend torque (which in that article it says NA cars) any way. I originally opened up my exhasut manifold ports quite a bit. THere is now a thicker thatn 1/4" step all the way around the exhaust port. You think I can open it up but still with a step, and get the best of both worlds????

tris91ricer wrote:So. . . You guys aren't having these flow-tested on a bench? Isn't that necessary -- I thought it was, and namely, the most expensive part of the process.

yeah I have heard that a little imbalance in flow can really screw with the motor.
there are ways to make a rudimentary flow bench for very cheap.

i didnt lose no torque at all, i made more but i never dyno my car its all bye feel and what i race. my dad did becuse he new he could do it. i no on my mazda 323 gtx he didnt do it i dont no why but i will find out for you guys whats up.

206er wrote:

tris91ricer wrote:So. . . You guys aren't having these flow-tested on a bench? Isn't that necessary -- I thought it was, and namely, the most expensive part of the process.

yeah I have heard that a little imbalance in flow can really screw with the motor.
there are ways to make a rudimentary flow bench for very cheap.

I'm just gonna leave it at cleaning up the casting marks. It would take way too long to do the rest.

How would you go about making the flow bench?

bmxpunk - I suppose it's possible that you can find a better balance for your needs than FHI did.

I could imagine making a very rudimentary flow bench out of a Shop-Vac, a MAF sensor, a pressure gauge, and a butterfly valve.

I read somewhere once that on american made cars, the castings are really bad and flow can be improved in the heads by like 75% and that freign cars can generally be improved to flow 30% better. I dont remember where though.

Isnt it common knowledge that our heads are rediculously poor flowing compared to other subaru heads. I know th likely hood that I could screw up the heads is pretty high. But I have always learned better hands on and by making mistakes. No body on here thought that opening up my exhaust manifolds a little would be a good thing. I've read a lot of other people doing it on wrx's and paying lots of money to have it done. My cars is super smooth and at WOT I have decent boost at 2000rpm.

bmxpunk wrote:Isnt it common knowledge that our heads are rediculously poor flowing compared to other subaru heads.

Unless you have data to back this up you're making a very general statement. People seem to think our heads are shitty, they aren't. They don't flow as good as a V8 STi but they aren't bad. Now to say there aren't a few gains that could be had would be incorrect but people have pushed some serious boost through our heads before without trouble. I'm not saying to just leave your heads alone if you want to play with them, just don't expect to see huge improvements without having a proffesional do your heads with proper equipment and knowledge.