Perfect power tuning and stuff thread

[douglas vincent]

Which ECU are you finally running tyler?

[bmxpunk]

I have the stock ej18 ecu. I havent had to pull any timing using the pp and have had no pinging, poping or banging. That is leading me to believe that the ej 18 had a really mild tune from the factory. Any body know timing numbers for either the ej18 or the 22t?

[bmxpunk]

New question, do you think that by running a k& n filter i could also be causing my MAF sensor to max out? any body running the K&N or airhog? I know vishnu reccomends NOT using them.

Thoughts?

[Legacy777]

You'll probably get a little more flow, but I don't think the increased amount of airflow would cause the MAF sensor to max out.

That is assuming the air is being measured correctly. If you have turbulent air, and it's not being measured properly, it's possibly the sensor is maxing out prematurely.

[bmxpunk]

what else would casue turbulent air? I did remove the snorkus box thingy in the fender like 3 years ago.

[Legacy777]

Does Perfect Power have the ability to control two sets of injectors? Does Perfect Power have the ability to control two sets of injectors INDEPENDENTLY of one another? Does Perfect Power have the ability to scale injectors?

Phil,

I did some more reading. The perfect power does have an addition injector driver that can control a separate injector. I'm assuing it's only one more injector though.... It can independently control the main injectors via the analog input signal, which on our cars in the MAF sensor.....and handles fueling based on what the signal from the MAF is. Typically throttle is used to calculate load with the PP. You could use the MAP sensor, however calibrating (setting it's bounds) might be a pain, especially if you ever up the boost.

I did some reading today and have a little better grasp as far as what I will be hooking up.

[douglas vincent]

Tyler......

When you are tuning/breaking your perfect power, do you use all three maps? i.e. the analog map, the injection map and the ignition map? Am I right in assuming the injection map is for an extra injector?

I am using the analog map and the ignition map, but am not sure if I am using them correctly, specifically the analog map.

First the ignition map. I am using +1 and -1 (and up and down of course) to pull or add to timing. Is this correct? It appears to be.

As for the analog map, I am also adding +1 and -1 (and up and down ie +2 +3 +4 so on) BUT I am not sure this is correct. What are you using in the analog map?

As for controlling the MAF sensor signal, I have NO idea what I am doing or how to do it.

OK as I am typing this, I realized I HAVE not had the cut out I normally have associated with maxing out the MAF signal. But I also have, at the same time I got the PP installed, increased my fuel pressure significantly. Maybe I was getting fuel cut of some sort?????

[Subtle]

How do you mount the extra set of injectors on each rail?

I'm using the SDS ecu which has a map--I'll ask them how or if it can be set up to run two sets .

[douglas vincent]

OK, went out and did some 3rd gear onramp runs. While the perfect power doesnt give me any more performance (yet), it may very well give me a safer performance level!

First off, I admit it is about 30 degrees out, so that helps, but I was able to run to 6000 rpm ( WHICH I NEVER DO!!!!!) in third with no audible detonation. And I did this over and over. I was pulling timing starting at -1 at 4000 rpm and ending up at -6 at 5500 rpm and -8 at 6000.

I was also adding fuel in the upper levels as well.

Butt dyno says more/safer power. We will found out on Saturday when on the dyno.

I DO HAVE (underline and ilalisized) the wierd bog/buck/hesitation still, but only sometimes and I still cant find a correlation.

I suspect I would be able to find it in a logged run, but the damn laptop stopped logging tonight and kept crashing.

Anywhoo, I pushed it pretty hard tonight and no knock. That kids, is pretty damn good news.

[bmxpunk]

I will just reply to you here Doug.

Yes I use all three maps, analog for fueling, igniton for timing and injection runs my Perrin boost control solenoid.

+=more, - =less

Have you messed with the analog fuel zero calibration under the global settings? this is what adjusts base fueling and idle. mine is set at a -2 or -3 to achieve a 14.5/15:1 AFR at idle.

You are correct about the numbers for timing and fueling. My first analog column is all negative (0,0,0,-4,-5,-6,-4,-5, -5,-5,-3,-2,-1,0,0,0) because at minimal load the car was super rich-(made the fuel guage look like the tach )from there more fuel gets added for both rpm and deflection.

I have had no audible ping or knock so on my current map I have no timing adjusted. I was thinking my bucking was MAJOR detonation, but I pulled timing and the bucking got worse, so currently I am leaving that alone. ( can I assume that becasue the ej18 didnt have a knock sensor that timing wasn't advaced much? does that seem logical?)

One thing I have noticed doug, is that the numbers need to be fairly smooth on either side or above/ below the number. This helped consideralby wit hmy bucking. but mine is still there.

For me, bucking seems to be huge lean spot or fuel cut from the ecu. bogging has been my overly rich spots.

I would start there. find the "peaks and valleys" in your numbers in the map and smooth out around them.

[Legacy777]

Tyler,

I posted this over on the perfect power website, but curious if you had any response/experience with my specific questions.

"Last question is regarding the, Oxygen sensor, AMP, & engine temp inputs. Would I want to hook these up to the perfect power? All the subaru wiring diagrams that are similar do not show these hooked up. I can easily do that, but if I can't do anything with them, then it's probably not worth hooking them up."

[bmxpunk]

Yes I did hook up the oxygen sensor and the engine temp sensor. The oxygen input is how I have been reading the afr til i can get a real wideband sensor. To do this, I have been trying to just add fuel on boost, until the meter show rich, and where the car runs the best. This is pretty primative way of tuning but it works alright so far. I dont believe that it is super accurate but it is better than nothing.

The engine temp sensor helped save me from the more damage than I had already caused when my car overheated and warped my heads. It would have been even worse had I not looked at the ol PP.

I am going to wire in the amp sensor, but havent yet. Becasue I am using an AMP or MAP sensor already for analog deflection, I can just "t" into that wire. That might help as far as fueling goes for on boost. but I havent tried it yet.

[Legacy777]

Cool.

I'll probably hook up those guys then, mainly just so I have the data.

[Legacy777]

Well I got the PP wired up and installed. I tried to set the deflection, and since the throttle's voltage decreases as it opens the deflection didn't want to set. I kept getting an error and it was freaking out. However it's late, I'm tired, and I'll give it a fresh start in the morning. So I'm just going to eat my chocolate chip mint ice cream and go to bed.

I read somewhere in one of the documents about loading a default blank map. I want to load the blank map since there was stuff in the map, and see what happens....

[douglas vincent]

How to set deflection

How to set deflection


Ok, take this map
(right click and save)
http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/ ... asemap.SMT

, and clear out to 0 all the numbers in the ignition and
analog maps. This will give you a "zero" map. Save this map as "Zeromap"
When you save it, you have the opportunity to change the map name. Do it
to "Zeromap", makes it easier to find later.

Now take your laptop to your car and hook it up. Have the laptop turned on
and the software running. Turn the key to ignition on. Now load the
"Zeromap" When you load, at the top of the window, there will be an option
to "download" the map to the SMT6. Make sure this is checked. Load map.

OK, the map is now in your SMT6. Now you need to set deflection.

Keep the key in the ignition on, motor off, phase.

Press the gas pedal. You should, if your TPS wire is wired in correctly,
the cursor go from right to left across the bottom of the map. Make sure
the map is in the analog (cause thats what I am referencing).

What are the numbers when the pedal is fully out? (mine was 18ish)
What are the numbers when the pedal is floored? (mine was 95ish)

Now go to option "Scale Settings" and choose "Deflection"

You will be able to set the "Min" and "Max"

Click "activate function"

Set min to +5% of the low number you had
Set max to -5% of the high number you had

click "apply"

Click "OK".

[bmxpunk]

From Rallitekforums: "IF YOU NEED MY IMMEDIATE HELP THEN YOU SHOULD SEND AN EMAIL TO SEAN@RALLITEK.COM.
THIS IS A PUBLIC FORUM FOR FOLKS TO CHAT ABOUT THE PERFECTPOWER. IF OTHER MEMBERS CAN'T HELP THEN EMAIL ME. MY SCHEDULE IS VERY BUSY, I DO NOT GET TIME TO CRUISE THIS FORUM TO ANSWER QUESTIONS AS OFTEN AS I LIKE. EMAILS GET FIRST PRIORITY."

HMMMM thats why i sent a bunch of email as stated in opening post. mearly posted to bring attention to him that he is ignoring people, and now I am losing my patients.

I am learning alot though. Just got back from a road trip to denver. Before trip- 11-14mpg, trip down: 20mpg, way back 23mpg(with my brother taking a nice 7minute 120mph pull :scary!: ).

Its accerating pretty smoothly in gears 1-3. I am getting some bucking in the higher deflections caused by gears 3&4. gonna work with it some more tonight though.

still have yet to neeed to pull timing cause of knock. Kinda scary but its nice.

[Legacy777]

I've got my PP installed.

There's a few things I need to resolve.

First the analog deflection. Subaru uses a falling TPS voltage. This causes the deflection reading on the PP maps to go from right to left instead of left to right. Whenever I try and scale the deflection and use the larger deflection percentage as my initial point and smaller deflection percentage as my end point I get an error. Do you other guys have a similar issue?

Other issue...which I'm not sure is an issue or not is when I run the test jig I get an error on AI-Input. I forgot to run it with everything disconnected, so I'm not sure if that's the way it's supposed to act, or if I have an issue with the PP.

Here's info on the test jig
http://www.perfectpower.com/products/test_jig.asp

Also, I'm working on scaling the MAP & Engine Temp readings in the PP. I've got the higher end for the coolant temp sensor, and the lower end for the MAP sensor. Once I get the remaining data, I should be able to input the values and it'll scale the display values to match the corresponding input voltages.

Doug, one other thing. If you're not using the MAP deflection input, you should ground it.

I read that and a few other things in the manuals. When I get time tomorrow I'll post that info, there's some good stuff.

Once I get everything setup, I'm going to go out and just drive and datalog everything to get an idea of the current MAF, MAP, & AFR setup.

[douglas vincent]

I dynoed today, and took the wagon to 6200 rpm with no fear!

I was able to add fuel and pull timing, just like I wanted!

I did run into a dangerously lean condition at 5700 rpm, but this was because either my MAF was maxed or my injectors were maxed, or both.

I need to install the JEC MAF and scale it, or install the Automatic ECU from Josh.

As it is, I am pretty happy, but my milage REALLY sucks now due to the wacky high fuel pressure. I am going to attempt to scale the fuel down some and see if it works.


One important note.

I DO HAVE the dread hiccups that Tyler is having. But not all the time. Mainly when at low rpm in the third and fourth. And it comes and goes. Sean thinks it "may" be a bad ground. I do have a shitty main ground somehow and will be cleaing that up soon.

[vrg3]

Newer Subarus use TPSes that go the other direction.

If necessary you could whip together a conditioner kind of like my dimmer adapter circuit to turn the TPS signal around for the PP.

[Legacy777]

Thanks Vikash. I posted on PP's forums. I'll see if I get any sort of response over there as well.

[bmxpunk]

doug,
I am bummed and unfortunately stoked that you are having the same problems. It sucks that there are two of us now but this means I am not the only one.

Josh,
i m gonna sound bitter here but I hope you get a response in a reasonable time, and maybe they wont delete your posts.

When's boxer4racing getting the Haltech?

I am thinking of a trying new injectors.

[Legacy777]

Well I got reply about the TPS deflection.....it's just something I'm going to have to live with.

Haven't heard anything about the test jig.

[bmxpunk]

The test jig is just for shops like rallitek, there is a thread on their board about it.

[vrg3]

Well, that signal reversal circuit would be really easy to make. You only need one chip and four passive components:

Get an LM2904 chip. Also get four 100K resistors.

Connect pin 1 to pin 6 through a resistor.
Also connect pin 1 to pin 2.
Connect pin 3 to the ECU's TPS signal wire.
Connect pin 4 to the ECU's MAF sensor ground wire.
Also connect pin 4 to pin 5 through a resistor.
Connect pin 5 through a resistor to the ECU's TPS power supply wire.
Connect pin 6 through a resistor to pin 7 (pin 6 is already also connected through a resistor to pin 1).
Connect pin 7 to the Perfect Power's TPS input.
Connect pin 8 to the ECU's MAF sensor power supply wire.

This should send the "reverse" of the TPS signal to the PP.

If the signal is noisy, you could add a 0.1uF capacitor across pins 4 and 8 (negative side to pin 4 if the cap is polarity-sensitive). This probably won't be necessary though.

[Legacy777]

The test jig is just for shops like rallitek, there is a thread on their board about it.

Thanks Tyler,

Checked out that thread.