legacycentral bbs

The hesitation problem is still just as bad as ever.

Gonna take it into the dealership for an oilchange and inspection next week.

Anything jump out as out of place?

your wires aren't red!

douglas vincent wrote:your wires aren't red!

The NGK 8 mils were half as expensive as the Magnecor heliocore ones.

I use the $25 Autozone wires. They may be crappy, but at least they work. I had a hella time with the magnacors. I finally junked em.

Ive noticed, while leaving the music off, that a decent volume 'buzzing' noise comes from the engine when the idle drops down to a point just above stalling.


I can seem to locate where its coming from tho

Alright, the news from the dealership inspection as is follows:

My brakes are down to 25
My oil pan is dented up to all hell, but not leaking
Anndddd

They think the rough idle is caused by the alternator + my sound system. So Im looking at installing a bigger alternator and seeing how that affects things.

Oh, and FYI, the dealership here is fantastic.

They charged me like $40 for the lube and filter job, waived the diagnostic fee and gave the car the best wash its seen in a month (its too cold to wash cars right now )

so disconect your amps and stuff and see how that works, shut off everything that uses juice. maybe give your grounds and battery terminals a scrub make sure that stuff is keen.

good luck

I think I fucked over my battery tho, or maybe just the regulator.


The tech said my charging system was putting out like 11 volts and the battery was only charged to like 9

whats the regulator? or do you mean the alt?

I think its part of the alt?

I dunno

Im not really too familliar with the charging system

yah i just looked it up, its inside of the alt.
sounds like a new alt for you.

Replace both your alternator and battery. Or at the very least have your battery load tested. Typically if the alternator has not been charging the battery properly, it will fail soon after, and give you headaches.

Legacy777 wrote:Replace both your alternator and battery. Or at the very least have your battery load tested. Typically if the alternator has not been charging the battery properly, it will fail soon after, and give you headaches.

I want to talk to you about your upgraded alt

I added you to my MSN

I am really not on any of the messenger services at all any more. Just don't have time. Feel free to shoot me an email or pm. If that doesn't work, maybe we can setup a time, and I can try and get online to chat with ya.

What car did your alt come from, and how tough was it to fit it?

The alternator is for an RS or WRX....basically a late model subaru. I had to extend the main lines going to the battery. That was probably the biggest deal. I also had to rewire the lines going to the electrical connector. Our alternators are three wire: Sense, light, and 12v ignition lead that tells the alternator when to turn on.

The alternator I have turns on once the rpm goes above a certain point.

Overall I'm happy with it. However.....I think a reman'd stock alternator should be fine. Do you have a killer stereo or plan to have a killer stereo?

The stereo + computer pull about 40 amps, so its fairly heavy duty as it is. This summer Im planning on adding another 10" sub and a set of rear deck speakers, so I would be surprised to be hitting 50 or 60 amps for just the entertainment system. When you factor in driving lights and MSD ignition, it's going to be needing some pretty hefty amperage, I think.

The guys at the dealership said a late model alt wasnt going to cut it, and you'd expect them to favour stock parts, since I'd be getting it from them.

What amperage does the WRX one you got put out?

Im fine with wiring, its mechanical stuff I have trouble with, mainly because I don't have the tools. If its not gonna bolt on, Im gonna be in a world of hurt over it, so anything that will bolt on its gonna be a huge huge plus, even if it means I cant built the system to quite where I wanted it.

The amperages you list, are they peak amperages? I've got 70 amps max amperage just in stereo equipment. Will I ever see that, probably not.

My HO alternator has a max amp output of 150 amps. The biggest drawback to a HO alternator is the ramp up it takes. Compared to a stock alternator, which will produce more amps at a lower rpm, this one is not going to do as well. I added a smaller diameter alternator pulley, so I'm effectively overdriving the alternator to help overcome that ramp up.

Here's a test of the HO alternator
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... ortest.jpg

pics
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... nator1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... nator2.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... nator3.jpg

Yea those would be peak, but most of the music I listen to has a more or less constant heavy bassline (Drum & Bass, Hip Hop)

Also, I'm gonna probably be running some kind of battery farm in the trunk, as I want to be able to watch moving and stuff while parked, so those are gonna have to be charging while I drive, which is a significant drain

Well, if you're interested in the alternator, I can put you in touch with the guy I got mine from. He's on nasioc, and out of Dallas. The cost will be around $300 I think. I'd have to double check my records though.

Mechanically it bolted on?

Yup, it's a WRX/RS case. The only difference is where the electrical plug is. It's a little further away from the cables then the stock legacy position. That's it.