legacycentral bbs

I'm lowered maybe an inch? You can still stick your whole hand in between the fender and tire.

Castor is 3.8, and both sides come out to be exactly 1.4... which is evidence of no accident damage. Drives well too.

I replaced all the end link bushings on my Wagon with energy bushings and the car is way more planted now. I had to dremal them a bit smaller to fit into the stock endlinks. Way less body roll now!

It was like 30$ canadian.

Greg

I did bounce the car at all four corners. The front two were fine (for $800, they better be!) but the rear two go bouncy-bouncy-bouncy. I think that will be my next repair, but I'm not sure whether I want to do the stiffer struts all around, or just use OEM rears. I'll also look into bushings.

I may have scored some WRX wheels and RE92s with 70% tread from someone on NASIOC for $200 plus shipping. Thanks for the suggestion, Scott! I've read a few reviews of RE92s that say thy suck when there isn't perfect weather; is that just people complaining for the heck of it, or are RE92s actually mediocre?

OT for this thread, but i discovered that the area behind the front left mud flap was completely rusted out. there was also a huge amount of dirt inside. I'm going to have to repair that with some bondo in the spring.

forgot that you don't have arear sway bar. I bet you front bushings are shot though. Mine were really bad and the car used to have way more body roll on corners

Wow, okay. My mom emailed me the scanned invoice from the repairs. First the dumb stuff... two strut bellows at $25 each, two strut mounts at $87.93 each. $157.90 labor for the strut work, $78.95 for an alignment, $25 to balance two wheels. And then, two "Strut Assembly GR-2" at $151.78 each. Does that mean I already have KYB GR2s in front? That would be sweet -- I could do the rears and be done with it!