legacycentral bbs

maybe find a 15 Foot Breaker bar, lol should come off EASY.

I dbout they make them longer then 10 inches.

All I can say is stay away from AutoZone or Checker axels. I trashed two in less than a year. I replaced them with units from a local place called Driveline Specialties, and have had no problems.

Also, I only use factory spring pins. Some people use others without issue, but my piece of mind is worth $6.

93forestpearl wrote:All I can say is stay away from AutoZone or Checker axels. I trashed two in less than a year. I replaced them with units from a local place called Driveline Specialties, and have had no problems.

Also, I only use factory spring pins. Some people use others without issue, but my piece of mind is worth $6.

No clue where he got the Axel.. it just needs to stand up to heavy Auto use

hmmm have me cruious here.. Where can I get good axles from?

If I did do this myself my biggest consern is How much of a effort is it going to take to get the Axle Nut off?

I heard it's almost 200Ft.lb?

I'm looking at a repair manual now, I know my Car has keys to unlock the CV from the Inner Axle area.

I'm too the point where I can't stand the noise on taking off and the wheel sometimes shaking back and forth in my hand. It's been almost a year since the Passenger side has been replaced.

Also as far as the manual says for the removing of the Axle Nut it says..

"CAUTION: Just break the nut loose at this time. If it is loosened very much or removed with the wheel on the ground (supporting the weight of the vehicle) the front hub bearings can be damaged."

No telling how long this axle has been on the car... So I have to think "will be hard to remove" No I don't want to pay another $364

it does not seem that hard at lease from the inner side.

http://www.thecvman.com/default.asp

Question the nut is set to 165Ft.Lb's right?

What Tq. Wrench goes that high???

I can get it off but what about getting it back on to specs? And I sure as heck don't want to kill the wheel bearings.

I think someone said Autozone axles are Crap? New Cardone ones are the same way?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 45&ptset=A

Good 1/2 inch torque wrenches go to 200ft.lbs.

So what about the axle I posted?

Well I guess it's ok then.

Do I need a CV Joint Puller to remove the outter CV joint off the axle?

If you're replacing the entire axle, you won't need to take apart the CV joint itself. I vaguely remember turning the wheel once I had the brass nut off, and the axle just slipped out.

thanks!

forgot to mention: there is a pin on the inside of the axle. Use a punch to drive it out, then it should "slip" out.

1-3-2-4, you said your steering wheel is shaking, I had the same and it was caused by a bad wheel bearing, you should check to see if the wheel will wiggle around when off the ground.
I had no problems with the axle nut, i rented a socket and a torque wrench from autozone, had to buy my own 2ft breaker bar. You can use an extension pipe on the breaker if the nut is unwilling.
The major problem I encountered was getting the axle out of the hub. Since the wheel bearing was bad I just took the entire assembly to the shop, the mechanic spent a good 20 min trying to get the axle out or the hub using a pneumatic hammer. I'd recommend doing it yourself, it's not that bad of a job, but if you can't get the axle out even with a puller, put it back together (roll pin and axle nut) and take it to a shop.

Wheel shaking goes away when off the gas, but comes back when your on it.

and Sometimes while just driving it will just plain stop shaking... it seems to hate when the car has up Spring weight and rests back down.