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UPDATE DATHER ROUND ALL!!!!!


compression test:

#1: 130
#2:155
#3:140-traces with oil-water
#4: 22(!!!!!!)

Pulled a pcv line, and it was filled(I mean filled!!!) with oil/water mix

So the engine is coming out on saturday and its all gonna be new. Its gonna take some time so if any of you have suggestions...

bmxpunk wrote:UPDATE DATHER ROUND ALL!!!!!


compression test:

#1: 130
#2:155
#3:140-traces with oil-water
#4: 22(!!!!!!)

Pulled a pcv line, and it was filled(I mean filled!!!) with oil/water mix

So the engine is coming out on saturday and its all gonna be new. Its gonna take some time so if any of you have suggestions...

yep, blew a gasket, that sucks.

if I may ask, what car/engine? EJ22 or EJ22T?

I'd be surprised an EJ22T blew a gasket, especially repetitively.

you need to have your head and block machined, if it's warped that can be why you're blowing gaskets; there's no ifs ands or buts to this, just have it checked and machined (if necessary) by a professional. if it needs machining, you'll get a little more compression and slightly better low end out of it.

suggestions? I made some suggestions about pulling my engine over in my thread 'definitely need a new engine' or something. check it out, there's also douglas vincent who has good suggestions, lots of them across the board.

first timers need quite abit of time to do the job, hassles and all it took me three days (but I had some unknown factors, without said factors it would have been ~2 days) a pro who's done it before can do it in a day - that is pull old engine and drop new in.

keep us posted.

22...

my suggestion would be to rewire to say an STI ecu maybe if you cant afford a standalone. use legacy sensors and change the ignition, and then you could get it properly tuned for your setup as well. just an idea.

how big are you going to go with it? full buildup?

Yes scuzzy this is an ej22t. This is the second set of head gaskets, and I had the block machined last time.

As far as build goes. time isnt and issue, its money, so this will take most of april. Second I would like to do some new heads, but the twincam/acvs ones that I have wont work with my sensors and wiring, so I am trying to get some from legacy294 (begging mercy if you read this) as well as throwing the vf 29 I got From matt monson. This time if it can beceramic coated, it probably will be: pistons combustion chamber valves, etc to hopefully cut back on some heat. said day, but to think that it was this fast and the motor was going bad.... icant wait til its done. new rings and bearings here i come..

the car is gonna be completely different again, because while it is out, I am getting a clutch and lightweight flywheel(not pulling the motor again) as well as installing my light weight bumper beams. So we are adding power(and betterr be reliability) and reducing weight. then hopefully it lasts long enough to see some more dirt

don't worry and waste your time adding lightweight parts to a heavy car, our cars are natually heavy, and will remain that way. getting one down very far will take excessive ammounts of work, and the lightweight materials aren't as good as asorbing impacts as heavyweight materials (steel asorbs more because it takes more force to crush, whereas fiberglass and carbon fiber offers little resistance when crushed against the grain)

also, carbon fiber (I know you made no mention of this, but still) while it's lightweight and touted to be uber-strong, is actually as fragile as fiberglass. you will only find it's strengths along the grain, not against it - taking a hammer to carbon fiber will trash it, it's about as impact resistant as fiberglass.

unless of course you hit it from the right angle.

but anyway, like I said, I wouldn't waste my time, and if you're looking to save weight so bad, there's many other places to start first, such as stripping the entire interior. losing the spare tire, rear seats and passenger seats. you may get ~150 pounds out of that.

not worth the work.


flywheels can be done without pulling the motor, just the transmission.

lol well hes pulling the motor to fix it... also do you realize that he has an impreza? (read). i just weighed my EJ22T swapped impreza and it was 2600, that is NOT very heavy. also if you seam weld or add a cage you pretty much eliminate crumple zones anyways, his car will be on dirt enough so im sure hes thought of it

Scuzzy, you must have missed all the posts about my car.

I put a 22t into an awd Impreza brighton. I am about 500lbs less than an sti. I want this car to be a precision driving tool, in which to learn/hone my driving on.

I fully understand what I am doing/risking with the lightweight bumper beams/parts. I have done some seam welding up front already last time I hade the motor out. after all of this is done, I will be looking for an aluminum gc hood.

The car is going to have a cage in it at some point in the future. Pulling the seats is a waste because the rear one weighs like 10lbs. I have already stripped the trunk and such, but keeping the spare for daily driving. The goal after I getthis car reliable is to find either and RS wagon used or like a 2.5gt for traveling etc.

but thank for your input.

So the motor is out and well good and bad.

FIrst, the ringlands between the rings on two piston are broken out. Need new pistons.

Second the cylinder bores are FINE!!!!!!! They still have the fricken hatching and no marks fro mbroen loose ring lands.

SO what pistons do i get? stock? someone told me the new replacements arent as good as the original, but i could have missunderstood them. I will update a little later today as to more findings.

Well, if its just broken piston rings, then the motor was fine, it was the engine management that broke them! Or lack of tuned engine management. Those pistons should not have broken, plain and simple. As far as I read, you were never running outragous boost levels. But I am pretty sure you were advancing timing, which is the exact opposite of what you should do when increasing boost.

I would stick with stock pistons, unless you have the extra money to go with new forged pistons, and then to be safe you have to have the bores and pistons fitted to each other......

Doug, i didnt end up advancing the timing. I actually had 3-4 degrees pulled on boost. For a while I did have an added degree down low but that was only when I was in vaccum. so if you looked at the cels an the perfect power the left bottom corner was 1's and the right corner (think sandwhich halves) was negative numbers. There was never audible detonation and no signs of it on the combustion chamber or piston.

So the rightside pistons are fine, it was the two left ones that went bad.

Also found some cracks in my flywheel. Most were just like surface cracks, from heat but a few were a bit deeper, so might as well go with one that ways a little less, as well as a new clutch.

Tonight we are going to see what we can do about getting my new heads to work. Anybody know if the legacy throttle body will fit the newer intake manifold?

I think I will stay with the stock pistons. I am having them coated to help out with heat dissipation, plus a moly coating on the side for friction. I just thought Matt said something about subaru changing the material for the replacement 2.2 pistons. I could be confused but i just wanted to check.

Other than that, the bearings for the crank/ connecting rods all feel really, really good. The block will get split tomarrow for further inspection. But So far I am pretty stoked. i mean other having my baby apart and having to cruise on my honda 90 in the cold/ snow.

It took about 2 hours for 2 of us to get the car on the stand all the way to having the pistons out. I am sure doug can do it faster, but hey its my first time.

I am a lucky bastard and all of the ring pieces were stopped by the screen on the oil pickup.

SO the crank journals look really good as do the rod journals, however you can see metaly in some of the bearings and 2 rods look like they are black under the bearing surface so it loks like I need to get every thing machined. While they are doing it, should I just have them knife the crank. I took a second and third job to finance this project so I am going to do whatever to it.

Also on the same subject, is it worth it to have everything balanced. I know Matt M told me that they are pretty good from the factory, so should I just go ahead and finish the job?

how good of a scale do you have?
Ive heard that you can do that yourself if you have a really good scale and the rods have balance pads.

I have also been conversing with Phil from element tuning about the hydra. He says they have the connectors to wror k with my stock wiring harness. His suggestion was to see if we can use my wiring from my 1.8L impreza to run the new heads, while just addingthe wires for acvs. Any body have thoughts on that. Any body know if the cam angle sensor from the earlier cars will fit the heads, or if the sensor off of the newer heads is just the two wire deal like my impreza?

yes206er freewheels are in. and no I dont have access to a scale, unfortunately.

Sorry I have been out of the loop and not returning PM's or Vm's. Stupid curse of az2nr's harness. Anyways, sounds like you have it al in hand. I do have a few of the good used parts you inquired about. Call me and we can discuss...

If you are going to continue down the 2.5l head route, I would get custom pistons. This will get your CR up into the 8's. With those heads, you will be in the low 7's. That vf-29 doesn't blow enough air to really take advantage of that low cr. And your desire for a rally-x type vehicle will want you in a position to really maximize the quick spooling of the vf-29. Crawford makes a drop in replacement forged piston for what you are doing...

Ok so I think I have decided on a direction. I am low on money and as the twincam heads are complicated and not perfect, I am goiung to stick with my sohc heads. I had the chance to drive a 2003 wrx yesterday, and was pleasantly surprised that when it alot slower than my car. Granted I was running the same td04 with 15psi and all the mods.

So I figure that for the sake of simplicity, I am going to keep the single cam heads.

I am also going to change engine management. I am thinking about doing the emanage ultimate. We have already wired one of these into my friends impreza. I will have the ability to change fueling and retard the timing. Supposedly I will also be able to adjust the rev limit (which I am looking into). I am also looking for something to monitor knock/ detonation so I dont do this again. I have seen one from MSD, anyone have any thoughts?

I have access to the harness from and auto- legacy turbo. Would this be really hard to put into my car? Matt would this invlove more than we spoke about on the phone?

Pistons are what I am looking into now. THis was a deciding factor as well. it was rumored that crawford had the ones for the 2.2+dohc hybrid in stock. They do not and making custom pistons would be 5-7 weeks out.
What are my piston options. I have sen stock and wiseco, other than that I think it would be a custom job from JE or CP, etc. If I get a better tune this time, would the stock pistons be fine with 17psi out of a vf29? No matter what pistons I go with they will be ceramic and moly coated.

Matt make sure you send me your email cause I want that pressure plate. DO you see nay problem or benefit with going wit hthe STi clutch disk? or should I just stay with the stock wrx disc? I am going to get an act streetlight flywheel since I have to replace the stock one anyway.

What else? Are subaru rings and bearings the best to go with? I have to have everything machines and oversize everything so....
I looked for that company you were talking about matt and I couldn't find them. Do you have a number.

Thanks for all of the help.

your car is lighter than a wrx too I would expect.
the emanage ultimate, how much different is it than the blue emanage? the latter seems like a screaming deal at around 250 and less used.

Actually after looking at the cost of the emanage ultimate, the msd knock sensor, and a decent boost controler to go with my perrin unit, I will probably be loooking at the same cost as going with a Hydras. So that is still an option.

Yeah I realize that my car is way lighter than a wrx, and you could definately feel that in the switch backs up the mountain. But the one I drove was completely stock and had a Ton of lag, not to mention they are only running like what 9psi stock? I felt really spoiled remembering how my boost guage just sweeps to 14-15 and how that wrx one was so slow till like 3000-3200.

But also as far as weight goes, My lighter bumper beams came in yesterday. I haven't even seen them yet but my friend says they are super light and cool in a "it might crush your radiator if you hit a fly at 60mph" kinda way. scary

Tyler,
If you are sticking with the stock heads, stick with stock pistons. Try Crawford again for those. He often has brand new takeouts from new shortblocks he bought for custom builds. You aren't going to gain much from all the fancy coatings and going forged. The ONLY reason I suggested other pistons was to correct the CR when using the DOHC heads.

What company? I don't remember the context. Remind me, and I will figure it out...

I wouldn't bother with an STI clutch disc. Until you are over 300chp, a WRX one is completely ample. I also don't think it will work with a WRX pressure plate, and requires the whole deal.

Why would you deal with the Legacy harness if you are going to use the E-manage or a Hydra...

I think you said the place was The Engine Shop or something? my friend and I both need our cranks done.

About the harness, well i just get a head of my self. Its easy to do I think I have ADD fairly badly.

Thanks for the advice on the clutch.

I am not sure that the coatings but i really did like them on my exhaust. I like the idea that the coatings protect the metal from heat, and hopefully lessen detonation ( since I seem to suck and break pistons because of it) I mean they do it for the wrc cars, what could it hurt? I am not positive that it gives greater power numbers right off the bat, like some companies claim, but I am going to try it any way, if only for the heat insulation.

Matt did you say at one point that there was difference in the new replacement pistons as far as quality? I thought you did at one point in time but I could have misunderstood. Also since I am going with the stock pistons and unless crawford is selling them for 50 a piece, i am going to get them from the dealer here because they are being super nice and let me pull my motor my self using their equipment and shop.

I was wondering, what rpm are the 22t heads good up to? If I get the hydra, I will beable to set my own rev limit and wondre if they will be up to the task. nothing huge, just like 7000? was thinking when talking with a subaro tech today... Matt you say that the 1.8,22,22t heads are on the same cores. My friend was saying thatthe spring spech for the 1.8 valve springs are stiffer, but couldnt remember if they were the same size. Plus would it be worth it? we have a 1.8 head but he doesnt want to tear it down unless we know they will fit.