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greg donovan wrote:

Legacy777 wrote:Just curious....why did you switch to the newer style jacking plate?

it lowers the rear mounting point a bit.

gotcha

Legacy777 wrote:Just curious....why did you switch to the newer style jacking plate?

Oh, I forgot to put that in the post, didn't I? The newer style jacking plate makes the skidplate install MUCH easier. Our stock jack plate has the mounting holes in the right place for the skid plate -- but there are no threads there (no nuts welded in place) so it would be one hell of a PITA to hold nuts and washers up on top of the old jack plate while bolting the skid plate up. Not to mention you have to bolt the skid plate up at least twice (once to mark the front drill holes then again to install). The new jack plate has those nuts welded in place right where they need to be, they match right up to the skidplate's pre-drilled holes.

And my radiator support holes were easy to thread the bolts into - it was like butta on mine. I was wondering why they didn't have rust caked all over inside them, but hey I'm not one to look a gift horse in the mouth.

edit: The older jack plate actually would result in more base clearance, as it hangs just a bit lower. I still needed rubber washers to space the skidplate down to clear the oil pan. I was thinking about bolting both jack plates up, one on top of the other (the skidplate holes line up perfectly, so as long as the threaded plate was on the bottom it might have worked) but that didn't seem like such a good idea.

free5ty1e wrote:

Legacy777 wrote:Just curious....why did you switch to the newer style jacking plate?

Oh, I forgot to put that in the post, didn't I? The newer style jacking plate makes the skidplate install MUCH easier. Our stock jack plate has the mounting holes in the right place for the skid plate -- but there are no threads there (no nuts welded in place) so it would be one hell of a PITA to hold nuts and washers up on top of the old jack plate while bolting the skid plate up. Not to mention you have to bolt the skid plate up at least twice (once to mark the front drill holes then again to install). The new jack plate has those nuts welded in place right where they need to be, they match right up to the skidplate's pre-drilled holes.

And my radiator support holes were easy to thread the bolts into - it was like butta on mine. I was wondering why they didn't have rust caked all over inside them, but hey I'm not one to look a gift horse in the mouth.

edit: The older jack plate actually would result in more base clearance, as it hangs just a bit lower. I still needed rubber washers to space the skidplate down to clear the oil pan. I was thinking about bolting both jack plates up, one on top of the other (the skidplate holes line up perfectly, so as long as the threaded plate was on the bottom it might have worked) but that didn't seem like such a good idea.

that is why i said i think.

good to know about the welded on nuts.

The Primitive plate will mount to Leggy's without switching the plate. We had them on both of the Leggy rally cars as well as many others w/no mods to the plate. They can contact the pan without spacing on N/A cars. The difference in exhaust manifolds warrents two slightly designs or one that some guys can "make" work..LOL Four or five mounting bolts, some spacers and washers and you're set.

Or you can focus on strength too, and not just weight. A little more weight can save your car when you off. A little steel is OK with me to keep the car intact..Some of you guys/ gals that were at Olympus might have seen how it helped keep the GC8 going until the end.. Many of our builds use a subframe as part of the design to help strengthen the car when for when the "offroading" begins..LOL

Many of the guys that are concerned most with weight don't think they'll off, they will, and wish the car was stronger..That's the difference between a sweep vehicle or tow truck hauling you out, or driving (hauling butt to finish a stage) out.

A few pounds difference, C'mon people..Put your foot down, or turn up the boost.

Sure you won't crash the car when you're playing in the gravel...LOL Why do you want a skidplate in the first place??

It's not if, it's when.. That's why roll cages and safety gear (seats, harnesses) are a good idea for playing on gravel too. That applies more to those that are cruising over 60 on gravel, not just the rough road grocery getters.

We can build you guys skidplates, subframes, light bars, cages or a rally car all that stuff winds up in..

There are at least 4 Legacy Rally cars on this board (and a GC8) that we've "strengthened" in one way or another.

We've "tested" a few skid plates.. LOL

Oh I know the Primitive plate would have mounted on the original jack plate. But it would not have been fun to secure there, as you have to hold a nut in place for the bolt to screw into. IMO the newer jack plate makes installing and removing the skid plate much easier. I've already done it twice, no hassles, quick, simple.

So - how about protection for the rest of the underbelly? To stop rocks from flying up and puncturing the gas tank? Or is that not a concern?

Usually we use HDPE for the majority of the underbody protection.

MDPE or LDPE are good for the gas tank, and yes that is a concern..

Everything left exposed underneath will get peppered with gravel if not protected...Rear knuckles, lateral links, trailing arms, rear brakes, etc.

It's pretty amazing how few stage miles can pepper the underbody of a car.

OK, I'll bite. How much to protect the remainder of me Leggy? (yaar)

And what's HDPE / MDPE / LDPE? High / Medium / Low Density something? I'm quick arent I

free5ty1e wrote:OK, I'll bite. How much to protect the remainder of me Leggy? (yaar)

And what's HDPE / MDPE / LDPE? High / Medium / Low Density something? I'm quick arent I

Poly Etheylne.

the heaviest stuff is like the plastic used to make bathroom stall dividers and cutting boards.

the lightest stuff is like thin plastic used on mudflaps.

Check ebay item # 8072812340

Would probably fit a BC/BF with a little work.

any of the underbody polyethelene can be bought in sheets from a plastics supply outlet.

Usually it's less than $100 for a 4x8 sheet. That'll easily cover your car. 3/16"
is very stout.. 1/8 should be ok if you aren't getting too crazy..LOL

Since you live in Elko, will you be going to the Reno Rally this year? That's not too far away is it?

Reno Rally? Sounds like fun.... I'd love to go.

You know, that's some good timing on the polyethelene idea. My Primitive plate isn't doing so good:

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=27192

(Funny you should comment on how crazy I've gotten....)

Although I've probably got some other things to attend to on Whitey before I can consider re-armoring...

The HDPE will be better for the floor underbody. After looking at your pic, you should really consider a subframe/ skidplate combo if you're gonna hit things like that..

Not flaming, I do it too, that's why I have one on my car..