legacycentral bbs

Legacy777 wrote:Yeah those brakes are pretty close.....I don't know...you may be ok though.

I'd be afraid. One or two mm of shifting of the rim and you'd be flying across the road not knowing what the hell happened.

Imprezive wrote:you should clean your engine bay before its too late!!!

I know! My buddy is gonna kick my ass if I don't clean it before we try to paint it.








He's probably gonna run a small spacer on the front to give it a little more clearance. He's only only using those wheels in the winter with flexy winter tires.

More progress yesterday. Built my new radiator support. If it doesn't look straight, that's cause its not. That deer shure did a number.

I've got my IC plumbing pretty well figured out. My IC ended up being a little bigger than the space I thought I had. I'll have to weld a bracket on the bumper beam to support the inside of the headlights. Oh well.

Tonight, I should be able to get the uppipe and downpipe done with t3h turb0z mounted. I should have more pics tomorrow.

I am so excited!

I've made a bit of progress. The uppipe, downpipe and exhaust are pretty much al together and tacked. I'm getting another hanger for the downpipe today for final fitting, then I'll finish weld everything. The downpipe is a little cozy with the firewall, so that'll get wrapped.


Soon will be all the coolant, vacuum, pcv, oil plumbing. Then its on to wiring.

Welding pics

Is that Jagermiester I spy?

Careful with the turbo mounted like that. We've seen the Perrin kits leak oil like a sumbitch because of being tilted backwards. Just something to think about. Ball bearing turbo's don't have as much of an issue with that though.

The Racing Brake brake kit was designed to fit with stock WRX wheels. Don't worry about that clearance. Imagine how hard you'd have to hit something to bend that part of the wheel enough to touch the caliper. It'd be ridiculous.

What radiator is that? Is it a custom radiator? You located it lower? Hmm, I might need to speak with you over PM about your approach to that idea. I'll be needing to do something similar at some point in time.

Richard wrote:Is that Jagermiester I spy?

You are correct sir

BAC5.2 wrote:What radiator is that? Is it a custom radiator? You located it lower? Hmm, I might need to speak with you over PM about your approach to that idea. I'll be needing to do something similar at some point in time.

The radiator isn't lower at all, it just looks like it from the funky lower support i fabbed. The original one was mangled from that deer a couple years ago. If it was still good, I would have just welded on to it where I needed to as opposed to cutting it all out. I may weld some 20 gauge sheetmetal around the front of it for protection. We'll see.

That radiator out of a turbo wagon with some ebay slim fans. My upper mounts are kinda hack jobbed untill I get a chance to machine some nice looking ones.

BAC5.2 wrote:Careful with the turbo mounted like that. We've seen the Perrin kits leak oil like a sumbitch because of being tilted backwards. Just something to think about. Ball bearing turbo's don't have as much of an issue with that though.

Do they leak internally? Or is it just an issue with the llines? interesting.




Anyways, here's some pics of the uppipe/down pipe.

They would leak past the seals and blow oil out the exhaust. Just something we've noticed on the Perrin 30 and 35R kit. You'll probably be fine. Is that a .82 A/R housing?

The up and down pipes look good! Flex and everything!

Let me know how the radiator works out. I need to drop mine down an inch or an inch and a half, and the move it forward about 2 inches with push-type slim fans. Let me know what chassis rigidity is like when you have that all done!

That turbine section is a .86. It might be a little big for the old heads, but we'll see. I plan on getting 2.5 dual cam heads this summer to really take advantage of it. That and an external wastegate should help alot. I've heard these turbos really like an external gate. I tried to go for simplicity off the bat, but that may have been easier from the get go. oh well.

sharpie lines to match up the pipes FTW!
no offense but some of the welds look a little cold and all that start/stop leads to pinholes at the junction which on somehting with the stresses of a hot side could mean leaks or cracks. I'd grind down some of the start/stop areas and go over them again as hot as you dare. then again Ive never MIGd stainless.
anyway props for DIY, looks like you are having a lot of fun with the project. what kind of power levels are you shooting for?

also, what is the deal with those flex sections ie how do they not leak under pressure? is there some kind of solid ball fitting inside the braided stuff?

206er wrote:sharpie lines to match up the pipes FTW!

That's how I do it!

Jeremy is right about the welds, when you stop and then start again, it is good practice to slightly overlap the weld you just finished...


Thanks for posting the pics though, because I will most likely use them as ideas for the up/downpipes for my special project that is coming up here pretty soon.

206er wrote:sharpie lines to match up the pipes FTW!
no offense but some of the welds look a little cold and all that start/stop leads to pinholes at the junction which on somehting with the stresses of a hot side could mean leaks or cracks. I'd grind down some of the start/stop areas and go over them again as hot as you dare. then again Ive never MIGd stainless.
anyway props for DIY, looks like you are having a lot of fun with the project. what kind of power levels are you shooting for?

also, what is the deal with those flex sections ie how do they not leak under pressure? is there some kind of solid ball fitting inside the braided stuff?

I'll go back over those spots on the welds when I pull it back out in the near future. I'm no pro at welding so the input is appreciated. I did have the welder cranked pretty good with what was reccommnded for that gauge. Since I'm using C25, there's a bit more spatter and the puddle tends to be a hare sluggish. The flex section should help against some cracking, but we'll see. This is all kindof an experiment, and treading some new territory for me, beyond wrenching and wiring. When I transfer for this spring, I'll have access to a TIG and I could really go back over it.

As far as the flex section goes, I'm not shure how it stays sealed. When I sprayed it out with brake cleaner, nothing came through, so maybe there is a solid pipe in there, but I don't know.


I'm shooting for 300whp on the old heads with the cams redone by delta. It's gonna be a while brfore I crank to boost past the actuator's 9 psi. I also won't be able to get it on a dyno untill I do something about the DCCD.



I've been making progress though. I finally got a 2-2.5" coupler so I could finish my IC piping off the turbo. A little massaging of the power steering lines mad it all possible. I also had to modify the bracket I got for the actuator, and the rod itself. The actuator and bracket are for a T series turbo, so it sat too close.

Otherwise I've been working on PCV stuff, trying to figure out how I'm routing it through the catch can; getting the fuel lines finalized, elininating my evaporative system(gotta love no inspections in minnesota), and starting on wiring. Ihave most of the wires sourced to the Link so far, just a few things need to be worked out. I spliced in some nissan injector clips for the SR20det injectors. I love those crimp type heat shrink connectors.

A flex section is set up like a series of short overlapping pipes, almost like a roto-rooter snake. There is also a heat-wrap like fabric in some of them surrounding the sleeve, and then the braid helps for support. They stop leaks because they give where the rest of the exhaust won't.

An .86A/R? Good lord! You might see a bit lag, but up top you'll be able to roll.

SS single cam heads can outflow WRX heads. It's been done. Probably not too cheap, but it's been done and you remain non-interference, which is a bonus when you want to make a lot of power.

How hard was it to pull the dash? I haven't done it before and I'm considering pulling the dash out of the forester to track down and eliminate rattles.

How solid is that radiator support? I know the stock one, you can tow the car by it if you have to. How strong is it? I'm going to have to do this, and I want to make sure I do it right.

BAC5.2 wrote:An .86A/R? Good lord! You might see a bit lag, but up top you'll be able to roll.

uuhhhhh, yeaaah.

I guess I was looking for a solid top end, and possibly off-boost highway cruizing. I'm thinking it shouldn't be a problem.

BAC5.2 wrote:SS single cam heads can outflow WRX heads. It's been done. Probably not too cheap, but it's been done and you remain non-interference, which is a bonus when you want to make a lot of power.

No kidden. Do you need custom valves? I wasn't able to find any oversizes at all. I have a couple sets of the old heads to saw apart and see where and how much material I can take out, but the valve size is my concern. That's one of the things that I find attractive about the phase 1 DOCH heads is that people stock nice valves.

BAC5.2 wrote:How hard was it to pull the dash? I haven't done it before and I'm considering pulling the dash out of the forester to track down and eliminate rattles.

Its not that bad. Another person is key. Its heald in by a bunch of ten mil bolts all around it, which aren't the issue. Its disconnecting all the plugs, and one or two grounds which are bolted down. The second person can hold it away while you see/find them and disconnect the grounds.

BAC5.2 wrote:How solid is that radiator support? I know the stock one, you can tow the car by it if you have to. How strong is it? I'm going to have to do this, and I want to make sure I do it right.

I'm thining its pretty strong, and probably dependendent on my welds. I may add some triangulation to it. I dunno. The way it looks, it could be stronger than the stock stamped sheet metal. I magled my factory one wit ha deer and strapped a chain around it and a tree to straighten it enough to zip tie the radiator to it. The old suport once bent wasn't that strong. Then again I've never tried to tow with it. hehe

ej22e valves are marginally bigger than ej22t...

DPR did the head modding to get them to outflow WRX heads. It worked!

I bet I could just notch the stock radiator support and weld in some angle iron to give me the room I need... That might do the trick.

N/A heads have marginally bigger valves, but do they actually flow marginally better?

BAC5.2 wrote:N/A heads have marginally bigger valves, but do they actually flow marginally better?

With everything else being the same, they should...

yeah but marginally
phil what are you trying to do, move the radiator down to run IC pipes over the top? Ive also seen where the radiator was angled back maybe a combo of those 2 would work well.

I forgot to mention I jumpered the fuel pump to test my bastardized fuel system with the dual regulators. I got about 39psi out of it with one small leak from an o-ring. Ikinda expected it to work since the regulators are designed to maintane a pressure a certain pressure difference.


Currently I've been working on wiring stuff, and other little odds and ends, like finding someone who nows how to get colder plugs. I had to go to friggen Napa to find someone who could find them in copper v-powers. I wasn't gonna spend $40 on plugs.

Cool project Dan. Keep it up.

Gonna run colder plugs? People do have a hard time finding them. I get all of our plugs from NAPA for the most part (they are much less expensive). We use OE plugs in everything though.

More updates!

Man, all I do is work, sleep, and work on my car 8/


Lately its just been little stupid stuff, like pcv crap, EVAP(or the lack thereof ) and of course, lots of wiring. I had to get a couple pipes welded, and a block near the throttle body for the intake air temp sensor for the Link. I haven't had a chance to post pics, but as of right now, there isn't much to look at except a wiring mess. I'll fire it up before I clean up the wiring, just in case. I'm gonna get all the hard parts back together hopefully on sunday, and I'll take some pics.

I have had a hell of a time with the turbo housing gasket. Ask a nissan dealer here in minnesota if they've heard of a silvia, and they give you a blank stare like you're retarded. For the time being I got a sheet of head gasket material to cut one out of. It should work for a little bit while I break the motor in on less than 9psi (my wastegate actuator)


What dino oil should I use in the 6mt? The dealer said any 80/90 weight, or the Amsoil stuff, but I don't trust them and this thing is nickel and diming me so bad I can't spend $40-50 on synthetic shit. I'm gonna have to get a cheap cone filter for the time being, I'll probably be driving it home for Christmas without fenders, hehe.

I'll post more on sunday or monday.

Well, been working on it as much as I can. I'm not gonna be able to drive it home for christmas, since I don't want to rush it. I'm close though, real close. Most of the wiring is done, I just need to tie up a few loose ends, then clean it all up with some loom. I', waiting on a buddy who is supposed to weld my BOV flange on. The dealer got me a slave cyl from a NA car, which I was none to happy about. But I am making progress.

I still need to weld a hose nipple on the inlet plumbing for the PCV. I didn't right away because I don't know exactly how the catch can will sit. I couldn't resist painting it though. That Rustoleum Rust Tough Semi-flat is hawt.

Speaking of catch can, that thing is a cheap one off ebay, and I discovered that the holes were about 1/8". Not acceptable. A little drilling and tapping later and they were 1/2".