Autronic install at PDX Tuning
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The Autronic can handle any size turbo or injectors. Tuning a standlone from the ground up is what takes the time. The base maps that come with the Autronic are designed to start the car and enable the car to at least drive. After that it's all tuning.
The PDXTuning race car uses a newer Autronic but it's still about the same as the older PnP ones, just more dells and whistles. That has a massive Garret GT35R and 850 cc injectors but the car idles like stock. All the Autronic maps are flexible and scalable so as long as you know what you are doing you can dial one in reasonable quickly. We have our own fueling and timing base values that speed things along.
On the dyno you first dial in the fueling in the idle and lower load zones. The Autronic's fueling algorithm is the best on the market so once you have the initial cells done the on power cells are at least close to what you need. We spent the first full hour on the dyno dialing in the lower load fuel cells. I don't have to worry too much about timing as our base map timing is pretty good. We then move on and do full runs at different boost levels dialing in the fueling and timing as we go.
I love the Autronic and have one for my car which has a fully built closed deck 2.2T block with 100mm (2.5L) Darton sleeves, Cobb Tuner crank, Pauter rods, CP Pistons, with modified heads, valves and cams to go with it. Garret GT30R Turbo and 1100cc injectors. This is topped off with a full dry sump setup. Fun.
The PDXTuning race car uses a newer Autronic but it's still about the same as the older PnP ones, just more dells and whistles. That has a massive Garret GT35R and 850 cc injectors but the car idles like stock. All the Autronic maps are flexible and scalable so as long as you know what you are doing you can dial one in reasonable quickly. We have our own fueling and timing base values that speed things along.
On the dyno you first dial in the fueling in the idle and lower load zones. The Autronic's fueling algorithm is the best on the market so once you have the initial cells done the on power cells are at least close to what you need. We spent the first full hour on the dyno dialing in the lower load fuel cells. I don't have to worry too much about timing as our base map timing is pretty good. We then move on and do full runs at different boost levels dialing in the fueling and timing as we go.
I love the Autronic and have one for my car which has a fully built closed deck 2.2T block with 100mm (2.5L) Darton sleeves, Cobb Tuner crank, Pauter rods, CP Pistons, with modified heads, valves and cams to go with it. Garret GT30R Turbo and 1100cc injectors. This is topped off with a full dry sump setup. Fun.
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Again, sweet #'s
Question on boost.... I know that you are set 16psi, but how does it hold? does it hold 16 from 3,000-4, 000 then drop off to ?? or is it steady at 16psi to redline?
Just wondering as my vf12 holds 13-14psi from 3~4200rpm then it drops to 12 or so but holds that from ~4200 to redline. I don't know if this is a function of the turbo OR how I regulate boost (MBC). I'm at 5500+ft ASL so I know the turbo will act differently anyway, but I'm still curious.
And now I'm REALLY thinking about an Autronic..... mmmmmm I did just get a bonus..... haha
Question on boost.... I know that you are set 16psi, but how does it hold? does it hold 16 from 3,000-4, 000 then drop off to ?? or is it steady at 16psi to redline?
Just wondering as my vf12 holds 13-14psi from 3~4200rpm then it drops to 12 or so but holds that from ~4200 to redline. I don't know if this is a function of the turbo OR how I regulate boost (MBC). I'm at 5500+ft ASL so I know the turbo will act differently anyway, but I'm still curious.
And now I'm REALLY thinking about an Autronic..... mmmmmm I did just get a bonus..... haha
Old - '93 T-Leg - 14.693 @ 92.68 at 5800ft ASL (Bandimere Speedway)
New - 07 Spec B/stg 2
"bloodstains - speed kills -fast cars - cheap thrills -rich girls - fine wine
i've lost my sense - i've lost control - i've lost my mind" Agent Orange
New - 07 Spec B/stg 2
"bloodstains - speed kills -fast cars - cheap thrills -rich girls - fine wine
i've lost my sense - i've lost control - i've lost my mind" Agent Orange
hold boost?
farfrumwork--don't know the answer to your question yet. I don't want to get another ticket. It accelerates so hard and fast it is hard for me to watch the speedo, boost gage and tach. When crusing on the highway, when you stand on it, the boost goes right up, and real fast you are 80-90+, so I let up. Don't know what would happen to boost if I kept my foot in it. 100mph ticket is very expensive, I would think!
Two words for you John...Track...Day...
I'll let you know when the next one is. If memory serves me next March at Pacific Raceways with IRDC for only $165...
Maybe I can get some in car camera shots of you pulling away from me on the straight. Awesome!!
AW
I'll let you know when the next one is. If memory serves me next March at Pacific Raceways with IRDC for only $165...
Maybe I can get some in car camera shots of you pulling away from me on the straight. Awesome!!
AW
Last edited by Adam West on Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
93SS 5MT White, TD05-16G, TMIC, 3"Turboback, Magnaflow, Alu Rad, H&R Sports, AGX struts, F/R STBs, Whiteline Sways, ALK+Endlinks, Odyssey 925, AC delete, Evo8 Recaros, Sparco 4p, 3.9 LSD, Hellas+air horns, IPD short throw, 99RSrims, s03's
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We setup the Autronic Boost controller for 17.5 psi from boost onset to 6000 rpm. From 6000 to 7000 we set the boost to roll down to 14.5 psi.
The Autronic logs show that the boost followed this programmed curve very well. We did try a run with more boost up top but the power was the same so we went back to this boost curve.
FYI - A manual boost controller typically always has a boost spike at the start and rolls off at the top. This is how a manual boost controller works, it can't be adjusted part run to vent more air. This is why an electronic boost controller comes in. It adjusted the boost control solenoid based on the actual boost giving you a closed loop system.
PDXTuning does tuning trips, again call Jarrad for details.
The Autronic logs show that the boost followed this programmed curve very well. We did try a run with more boost up top but the power was the same so we went back to this boost curve.
FYI - A manual boost controller typically always has a boost spike at the start and rolls off at the top. This is how a manual boost controller works, it can't be adjusted part run to vent more air. This is why an electronic boost controller comes in. It adjusted the boost control solenoid based on the actual boost giving you a closed loop system.
PDXTuning does tuning trips, again call Jarrad for details.
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If you do this John you are going to need to run some extra octane. Track time will heat the car more than daily driving and the extra octane will help stop high heat related knock. The EJ22 closed deck block gets very hot on the track.Adam West wrote:Two words for you John...Track...Day...
I'll let you know when the next one is. If memory seves me March at Pacific Raceways with IRDC..$165...
Awesome!!
Here are a couple of laps of me at Pacific Raceways
http://www.mickandsarah.com/wrx/RaceMediumBW.wmv - It's a big file ~50Meg
One warm up lap, a couple of hot laps and a cool down. My best time was a 1:36.5
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I am curious on how the car was not heat soaked.
I am running the same intercooler and that was the big problem when we were tuning.
I am currently only on 15 lbs boost because of this issue.
Also curious Mick, how much power the computer saves through the use of the intake charge temp sensor. I know when you use MAF, there is no adjustment for the air temp, where MAP adjusts for it. ( as the pressure is changed by the temp)
I am running the same intercooler and that was the big problem when we were tuning.
I am currently only on 15 lbs boost because of this issue.
Also curious Mick, how much power the computer saves through the use of the intake charge temp sensor. I know when you use MAF, there is no adjustment for the air temp, where MAP adjusts for it. ( as the pressure is changed by the temp)
Yes I have too many Subarus
No you can't have one
05 GD-STI
01- RS- Swapped-07 STI
00- GF
93 SS- "the original Robtune" (now in new hands)
No you can't have one
05 GD-STI
01- RS- Swapped-07 STI
00- GF
93 SS- "the original Robtune" (now in new hands)
heat shield over turbo
Drew--I modified the stock heat shield/chimney,and lined it with heat reflecting gold foil. Basically, I cut the chimney off and had a plate welded on the top to seal it. It has got to help reduce heat soak.
http://subieclub.com/uploads/1192990251 ... 091588.jpg
http://subieclub.com/uploads/1192990251 ... 627078.jpg
http://subieclub.com/uploads/1192990251 ... 091588.jpg
http://subieclub.com/uploads/1192990251 ... 627078.jpg
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I think it's important to point out these threads:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno(kleinkid before autronic)
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
All are with stock EM for the most part, all with larger turbos than VF12. Biggreen has a VF39 all others have 16G. The rest of the mods are pretty much the same. Jake as DOHC heads and it sort of shows the difference. Makes more hp and tq, but torque peaks later. However kleinkid kills them all in torque, and is about even with all of them in hp, with a smaller turbo! Of course kleinkid is the only direct comparison, he made 40 more hp, and 85 more lb/ft with just the autronic, but I think it shows what having good management can do for power.
Of course if you just throw a whole bunch of parts at anything it will make power with stock management:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
I'm not trying to say anyone is doing anything "wrong", just that it could be done better.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno(kleinkid before autronic)
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
All are with stock EM for the most part, all with larger turbos than VF12. Biggreen has a VF39 all others have 16G. The rest of the mods are pretty much the same. Jake as DOHC heads and it sort of shows the difference. Makes more hp and tq, but torque peaks later. However kleinkid kills them all in torque, and is about even with all of them in hp, with a smaller turbo! Of course kleinkid is the only direct comparison, he made 40 more hp, and 85 more lb/ft with just the autronic, but I think it shows what having good management can do for power.
Of course if you just throw a whole bunch of parts at anything it will make power with stock management:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
I'm not trying to say anyone is doing anything "wrong", just that it could be done better.
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One of the benefits to the Autronic, as seen by the recent dyno tuning of the STi and Legacy, is when the computer handles the boost, the boost is very linear. The STi had a smooth boost line, where the legacy with it's MBC is a very jagged line.
A EBC would better handle the boost control as the Autronic does.
So, for the huge cost of this unit, you get a EBC also.
A EBC would better handle the boost control as the Autronic does.
So, for the huge cost of this unit, you get a EBC also.
Yes I have too many Subarus
No you can't have one
05 GD-STI
01- RS- Swapped-07 STI
00- GF
93 SS- "the original Robtune" (now in new hands)
No you can't have one
05 GD-STI
01- RS- Swapped-07 STI
00- GF
93 SS- "the original Robtune" (now in new hands)
Autronic is controlling boost
The Autronic is controlling boost on my Legacy SS. Because the Autronic will control boost or the IAC valve, but not both, my car is hard to start when cold. I am going to buy the Subaru engine block heater, part number A0910AS100, $23.75 from www.subarugenuineparts.com, and install it when I replace my stock radiator with the Koyo radiator. I am hoping the block heater will help with cold starting.
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Dude!! That Rocks!!! Im loving your torque number! Thats all that matter to me! i have one 2 questions for you.
1. How much did this ECU swap cost you?
2. What type of mods are you ALL running.
PS. If you have not guessed yet i REALLY like your torque. I envy you...
1. How much did this ECU swap cost you?
2. What type of mods are you ALL running.
PS. If you have not guessed yet i REALLY like your torque. I envy you...
93 Legacy Turbo AT Sliver Stock, Ultra Rotty Body
93 Legacy Turbo MT Silver Rob Tune 550cc Lowered GT28 AWIC 4.11 05 Leg GT rims Mint body
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93 Legacy Turbo MT Silver Rob Tune 550cc Lowered GT28 AWIC 4.11 05 Leg GT rims Mint body
95 Chevy Corvette MT ZR-1 Black X Brace Chipped
94 Legacy Turbo AT Blue Stock SOLD
06 Pontiac G6 AT Green Stock SOLD
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THe no reply was probably because of the three month delay on the post, and people often take a break from forums for a while. I know I have.
Anyways, the fact of the matter is, a standalone will allow to fully exploit whatever setup you may have, or plan to have in the future. Having to pick between an IAC valve and a boost control solenoid is kind of a bummer on that particular unit, but they all have their quirks.
Anyways, the fact of the matter is, a standalone will allow to fully exploit whatever setup you may have, or plan to have in the future. Having to pick between an IAC valve and a boost control solenoid is kind of a bummer on that particular unit, but they all have their quirks.
→Dan
piddster34 at h0tma1l d0t c0m
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