legacycentral bbs

The Autronic can handle any size turbo or injectors. Tuning a standlone from the ground up is what takes the time. The base maps that come with the Autronic are designed to start the car and enable the car to at least drive. After that it's all tuning.

The PDXTuning race car uses a newer Autronic but it's still about the same as the older PnP ones, just more dells and whistles. That has a massive Garret GT35R and 850 cc injectors but the car idles like stock. All the Autronic maps are flexible and scalable so as long as you know what you are doing you can dial one in reasonable quickly. We have our own fueling and timing base values that speed things along.

On the dyno you first dial in the fueling in the idle and lower load zones. The Autronic's fueling algorithm is the best on the market so once you have the initial cells done the on power cells are at least close to what you need. We spent the first full hour on the dyno dialing in the lower load fuel cells. I don't have to worry too much about timing as our base map timing is pretty good. We then move on and do full runs at different boost levels dialing in the fueling and timing as we go.

I love the Autronic and have one for my car which has a fully built closed deck 2.2T block with 100mm (2.5L) Darton sleeves, Cobb Tuner crank, Pauter rods, CP Pistons, with modified heads, valves and cams to go with it. Garret GT30R Turbo and 1100cc injectors. This is topped off with a full dry sump setup. Fun.

Mick- what is the price ( and include the est 2 hours of tuning to set it up.)

I think they are in the $2k plus range. If I am wrong, please correct me!

Call Jarrad or Dustin at PDXTuning for pricing, i just do the technical stuff and tuning so don't actually know the prices.

Dang... Those are some numbers...

Again, sweet #'s

Question on boost.... I know that you are set 16psi, but how does it hold? does it hold 16 from 3,000-4, 000 then drop off to ?? or is it steady at 16psi to redline?

Just wondering as my vf12 holds 13-14psi from 3~4200rpm then it drops to 12 or so but holds that from ~4200 to redline. I don't know if this is a function of the turbo OR how I regulate boost (MBC). I'm at 5500+ft ASL so I know the turbo will act differently anyway, but I'm still curious.

And now I'm REALLY thinking about an Autronic..... mmmmmm I did just get a bonus..... haha

mick_the_ginge do you have a preferred tuner in Northern California? Specifically within 2 hours of San Francisco?

farfrumwork--don't know the answer to your question yet. I don't want to get another ticket. It accelerates so hard and fast it is hard for me to watch the speedo, boost gage and tach. When crusing on the highway, when you stand on it, the boost goes right up, and real fast you are 80-90+, so I let up. Don't know what would happen to boost if I kept my foot in it. 100mph ticket is very expensive, I would think!

Two words for you John...Track...Day...

I'll let you know when the next one is. If memory serves me next March at Pacific Raceways with IRDC for only $165...

Maybe I can get some in car camera shots of you pulling away from me on the straight. Awesome!!

AW

We setup the Autronic Boost controller for 17.5 psi from boost onset to 6000 rpm. From 6000 to 7000 we set the boost to roll down to 14.5 psi.

The Autronic logs show that the boost followed this programmed curve very well. We did try a run with more boost up top but the power was the same so we went back to this boost curve.

FYI - A manual boost controller typically always has a boost spike at the start and rolls off at the top. This is how a manual boost controller works, it can't be adjusted part run to vent more air. This is why an electronic boost controller comes in. It adjusted the boost control solenoid based on the actual boost giving you a closed loop system.

PDXTuning does tuning trips, again call Jarrad for details.

Adam West wrote:Two words for you John...Track...Day...

I'll let you know when the next one is. If memory seves me March at Pacific Raceways with IRDC..$165...

Awesome!!

If you do this John you are going to need to run some extra octane. Track time will heat the car more than daily driving and the extra octane will help stop high heat related knock. The EJ22 closed deck block gets very hot on the track.

Here are a couple of laps of me at Pacific Raceways
http://www.mickandsarah.com/wrx/RaceMediumBW.wmv - It's a big file ~50Meg

One warm up lap, a couple of hot laps and a cool down. My best time was a 1:36.5

Does PDX tuning have an official website?

LOL I guess I should have searched

So for the OP why choose the Autronic?

I am curious on how the car was not heat soaked.
I am running the same intercooler and that was the big problem when we were tuning.

I am currently only on 15 lbs boost because of this issue.

Also curious Mick, how much power the computer saves through the use of the intake charge temp sensor. I know when you use MAF, there is no adjustment for the air temp, where MAP adjusts for it. ( as the pressure is changed by the temp)

Drew--I modified the stock heat shield/chimney,and lined it with heat reflecting gold foil. Basically, I cut the chimney off and had a plate welded on the top to seal it. It has got to help reduce heat soak.

http://subieclub.com/uploads/1192990251 ... 091588.jpg

http://subieclub.com/uploads/1192990251 ... 627078.jpg

I think it's important to point out these threads:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno(kleinkid before autronic)
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno

All are with stock EM for the most part, all with larger turbos than VF12. Biggreen has a VF39 all others have 16G. The rest of the mods are pretty much the same. Jake as DOHC heads and it sort of shows the difference. Makes more hp and tq, but torque peaks later. However kleinkid kills them all in torque, and is about even with all of them in hp, with a smaller turbo! Of course kleinkid is the only direct comparison, he made 40 more hp, and 85 more lb/ft with just the autronic, but I think it shows what having good management can do for power.

Of course if you just throw a whole bunch of parts at anything it will make power with stock management:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... light=dyno

I'm not trying to say anyone is doing anything "wrong", just that it could be done better.

One of the benefits to the Autronic, as seen by the recent dyno tuning of the STi and Legacy, is when the computer handles the boost, the boost is very linear. The STi had a smooth boost line, where the legacy with it's MBC is a very jagged line.

A EBC would better handle the boost control as the Autronic does.

So, for the huge cost of this unit, you get a EBC also.

The Autronic is controlling boost on my Legacy SS. Because the Autronic will control boost or the IAC valve, but not both, my car is hard to start when cold. I am going to buy the Subaru engine block heater, part number A0910AS100, $23.75 from www.subarugenuineparts.com, and install it when I replace my stock radiator with the Koyo radiator. I am hoping the block heater will help with cold starting.

It should. Our legacy has the Block heater, and it only takes 2 minutes of driving before I get full heat out of the vents.

Nice #'s, be nice to your tranny!

I'm trying! PDX talked to me about that issue.

Dude!! That Rocks!!! Im loving your torque number! Thats all that matter to me! i have one 2 questions for you.

1. How much did this ECU swap cost you?

2. What type of mods are you ALL running.

PS. If you have not guessed yet i REALLY like your torque. I envy you...

i guess this was not truth?
Nobody reply since january 2008

maybe those guy are scumb and try to get people into this.
anyway if anyone could confirm this it would be great

THe no reply was probably because of the three month delay on the post, and people often take a break from forums for a while. I know I have.


Anyways, the fact of the matter is, a standalone will allow to fully exploit whatever setup you may have, or plan to have in the future. Having to pick between an IAC valve and a boost control solenoid is kind of a bummer on that particular unit, but they all have their quirks.