legacycentral bbs

????....

????....

Change the knock sensor and then get back to us.

Well there is something screwy going on here. You don't get that many codes from a normal problem that develops. You get a flashing light before you get anywhere that many sensors shit themselves!
Have you checked ALL your earths?
Do you have had a look inside the ecu for leaking capacitors?
Do you have another ecu you could try, or another car you could plug your ecu into?

I have seen these symptoms before and it has been capacitors leaking electrolyte inside the ecu shorting things out.
Pull the ecu, take the cover off and have a look for bulging or leaking capacitors, corrosion, burnt transistors or resistors, cracks in the pcb.

i can probably get a used knock sensor on here right? it sounds more of an ECU problem as log1call said because its making 9 codes go off, even after i replaced some of those parts..

Have you tried looking inside the ecu then?
That's a simple thing to do and it costs you nothing.
Always do the simple things first.

ya definately, ill probably take a look at that tomorrow, thanks man

Mattheww044 wrote:ok guys this is where i need help. These are the codes im reading
11= crank angle sensor
22= knock sensor
23 airflow sensor
24 air control valve
31 throttle position sensor
32 oxygen sensor
33 vehicle speed sensor
45 atmospheric sensor
49 airflow sensor

OK, so considering the budget im on (maybe a couple hundred), what should i look at getting done first? i can probably do most of it myself with help from friends so which of those would be the smartest to buy first and get fixed?

x2 keep it simple when diagnosing. What are you gonna do? just replace all those sensors hoping the codes will just go away.

All those codes represent circuits. They have to share some common fault for them all to go off.
Go take a good look at your major engine electrical connectors. Wiggle/unhook/clean them. I'm talking about the ones off the engine, then go take a good look at the ecu connector.

Really mess around with them too. Old plastic connectors are ussually brittle, the metal pins inside sometime let loose.

A common problem with these old Legacys especially in cold climates is the the main ignition relay. A failing relay can cause, for some reason, lots of codes to go off. It is a pain to fix though. It pretty much invovles removing the dash.



A subaru tech that has been working on these things since they were new shed some light on this.

Have you had a look inside that ecu yet?

I'd agree about checking all the earths and plugs. This is not just all the sensors and actuators failing at the same time. That would be silly!

The main relay can fail, but in my experiance that mostly gives no codes. There are two contacts in there, one to supply power to the injectors(or is it the ignition?) and one to supply power to the ecu. If the ecu one goes crook I have never got trouble codes from that. I would suspect that if the other contact failed it would give the injector or ignition codes only though. Not that theory always works on these things!
The main relay can be got out without taking the dash out. If you take out the kick panel, then the fuse and relay boxes, (which isn't as bad as it looked because all the plugs are different and can't be confused), then reach up annd undo two bolts holding the bracket that holds the main and fuel pump relays, then you can pull it down with the wires still attached, reach in behind the relay and undo the clip which holds the main relay to the bracket. I have been told that you can poke a long screwdriver up there and spring the retainer clip with everything in place but I have never managed that yet.

I think ^^^^^^ he's over thining this.

Ive replaced the o2, knock, maf and speed cable on my car. If I go out right now I can still pull all the codes.
Ive reset the computer by disconnecting the battery, pulled main fuse and nothin works. Its just a stored code





To start, which Jumper wire are connecting under the dash? You should have 2 of them, 1 green set and 1 black set, The black set is ont he right hand side of the dash and the green set is ont he left hand side. The green set shows active codes and the black set shows stored codes.

Now you might be connecting the stored code connector. Double check it.



Please replace the knock sensor if you still have a Sluggish car and havent changed it yet. You can get one at Autozone. They are cheap. 45$ or so
Do you know how much your hitting on boost? f its knock its going to retard the timing massive and only hit 4-5 psi

Don't replace anything with used sensors. Not a good idea.

ok. well i went to check my ECU. i have the manual on it, and it was NOTHING like the picture. i went under the passengaer side carpet ripped up everything til i hit metal. the pic showed a large plate held on with bolts. mine was just a tiny plate that was held there with some kin dof adhesive, but theres no way that the ECU could be pulled out of that little hole.... am i looking in the right place? and also i did do the black cords.... i was told to do the black ones. but i will try the green ones and see what comes up. thanks guys!

You don't have the right manual.

ECU is located behind the driver's dash.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... cuhide.jpg

ok thanks, i was coming to the conclusion that im a complete retard, or it was the wrong manual

update: for some reason, the check engine light only comes on when i get on the freeway, not sure why that would be. hoping to pull that ecu out as soon as it warms up a lil