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Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 3:32 pm
by Legacy Rally Guy
Mattheww044 wrote:damn that looks pretty good. Definately get some pics up of it on the car when painted and done. do you have any idea how much you'd be asking for them?
I figure, it'll be less than $150 shipped most likely. What I'll do is make five scoops and add the cost and divide it by five to get a good average, to figure cost.
Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 4:50 pm
by Mattheww044
ok, thats something I will have to consider. That's a little spendy but definately something to keep in mind, but I can totally appreciate the time and money youve put into this project, and I also appreciate contributing to the board. I wish I had the time/skills to custom fab stuff like that. haha. anyways yea when the time comes get some on-car pics and a price and ill start putting money aside!
Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 4:51 pm
by Mattheww044
ok, thats something I will have to consider. That's a little spendy but definately something to keep in mind, but I can totally appreciate the time and money youve put into this project, and I also appreciate contributing to the board. I wish I had the time/skills to custom fab stuff like that. haha. anyways yea when the time comes get some on-car pics and a price and ill start putting money aside!
Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 5:09 pm
by Legacy Rally Guy
Mattheww044 wrote:ok, thats something I will have to consider. That's a little spendy but definately something to keep in mind, but I can totally appreciate the time and money youve put into this project, and I also appreciate contributing to the board. I wish I had the time/skills to custom fab stuff like that. haha. anyways yea when the time comes get some on-car pics and a price and ill start putting money aside!
I'm very happy to say It's looking like it'll stay below $150.00 shipped (in the U.S). I priced the mold materials today and I'm going to order them this coming Thursday/Friday!
I wanted to make it as inexpensive as possible, but I gotta pay myself a lil-sum'n sum'n for dealing with that nasty fiberglass and covering the materials involved... I remember someone on here spending $400 on theirs that they picked up.. Cause it was shipped from australia! So basically until someone in China rips off my design and makes a plastic injection mold for it, this will probably be the cheapest aftermarket scoop for our Legacies..

Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 5:09 am
by N1446
you gonna do the paypal thing or money order deal-yo ?
i ll be the first one to send you money !! love the design
very practical

Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:29 am
by Legacy Rally Guy
N1446 wrote:you gonna do the paypal thing or money order deal-yo ?
i ll be the first one to send you money !! love the design
very practical

I'll do whichever, money is money.. the money orders are nice, cause there's no fees on my end, but paypal is cool, allows for both parties to have safety in the transaction..
Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 4:40 pm
by shopwizard
When do you foresee yourself being ready to produce these for resale?
Looks killer! I finally found a turbo hood for my 92 wagon and would love to have one of your scoops before I paint.
I have a bit of experience in the molding process and could make one myself but why spend all that time to build molds to fab one and duplicate your hard work. You deserve the props and the cashola.
Great work.
Also, when do you foresee having the skirts and bumper moldings ready? I would assume a year or better????
Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 5:31 pm
by Legacy Rally Guy
shopwizard wrote:When do you foresee yourself being ready to produce these for resale?
Looks killer! I finally found a turbo hood for my 92 wagon and would love to have one of your scoops before I paint....
This scoop nearly ready, I'm finishing up the last details on the fitment this weekend... I hope to start the mold making too. I get pretty busy through the week, so I dont get much time for pet projects on weekdays. I'd love for you to have one too!

The post facelift scoop will be soon after and since I already have the scoop shape model, it wont take long to adjust it to the post facelift hood...
shopwizard wrote:...I have a bit of experience in the molding process and could make one myself but why spend all that time to build molds to fab one and duplicate your hard work. You deserve the props and the cashola...?
Totally wicked.. , it's been a long process, especially since I learned several "wrong ways" to do this.. hehe
shopwizard wrote:...Also, when do you foresee having the skirts and bumper moldings ready? I would assume a year or better????
Well, I'll need to finish the build of a few pre-facelift scoops and then I'll work on the post facelift scoops. And probably shortly after the post facelift scoops, I'll do the side skirts. I'm thinking those will be a winter project, ready for release in spring.
Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 5:43 pm
by chochocho
i am down for one for sure.
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:16 pm
by chochocho
what's happening with this?
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:27 pm
by Legacy Rally Guy
I put my first layer of paint on it, it needs wet sanded now.. soon.. very soon!
I also need to find a place to lay fiberglass, once I make the mold.. Trust me, I'm chomping at the bit just as much as you all are! But pretty much any further progress requires decent sums of money, silicone isn't cheap and I wan to make it as perfect as it gets, *also saves you guys trouble with having a body shop needing to spend very little time on it.. as soon as I get the mold done, I'm taking orders and money in order received gets your place in line and it'll go WAY faster once I have that step. I'm thinking I can make two a week. maybe three or four, if I get a good weekend!

Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:29 pm
by Legacy Rally Guy
My apologies, I've not posted pics of the latest two stages of finishing either.. It's looking sexy!
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:45 pm
by 206er
nice work!
maybe you could cast multiple plaster molds off your original? seems like little extra expense for the increase in production ability. admittedly I know jack squat about fiberglass work but I admire your efforts.
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:49 pm
by Legacy Rally Guy
206er wrote:nice work!
maybe you could cast multiple plaster molds off your original? seems like little extra expense for the increase in production ability. admittedly I know jack squat about fiberglass work but I admire your efforts.
Much appreciated! I was going to do plaster, if I could make some two part plaster molds, that'd rock, cause then I could EASILY make five or six mold sets and then pop out scoops like bunnies!
I may give it a try after a successful silicone scoop mold.
Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 7:55 am
by Legacy Rally Guy
Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:36 pm
by Legacy Rally Guy
Okay guys, it's done... We are green for flight!
I'll post some final pics here after work.
$125 Shipped in the US (3M stick on)
$150 Shipped in the US (Bolt on)
International will be a little more, pm me with address... so we can find the cheapest method (Global Priority works best)
I'm creating a buy thread in the parts shed.
To keep the price down and shipping included, I'll wait till I get ten paid orders before doing the first batch, so I can buy material in bulk to keep prices static.
Buy-thread
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... highlight=
Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:29 pm
by yazmo
wish you made this for leg 92-94 gj
Re:
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 4:30 am
by Legacy Rally Guy
yazmo wrote:wish you made this for leg 92-94 gj
Well, I'm a step closer...
$475 worth of silicone and molding stuff later:
1. 1/8" layer of brush-on silicone and let partially cure
2. 1/8" layer on top of that and let cure
3. 1/4" base of pourable silicone.
4. Next I brush on more silicone until built up to 1/2" thickness
<--current status
5. Make a hard "mother-mold" shell
6. De-mold
7. Scoop Mold READY!
8. Finally make flippin scoops!
I've got a good layer of silicone curing now..
Re: (Pre-facelift) New and Improved Hood Scoop Build = Done!
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:02 pm
by yazmo
sweet really where did you learn how to do that
is there class for modellling or something this is for 90-91 only right?
good job
Re: (Pre-facelift) New and Improved Hood Scoop Build = Done!
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:29 pm
by Legacy Rally Guy
yazmo wrote:sweet really where did you learn how to do that
is there class for modellling or something this is for 90-91 only right?
good job
i'm sure there's classes you can take, but I did this in my spare time/money over the last two years... It's an expensive "hobby" to pick up because mistakes aren't cheap. Heck, for those that think fiberglass is expensive, you should see what silicone runs! Make a few booboos with that stuff and watch money go down the toilet at an alarming rate
most of what I have learned is from online how-to's... Not an easy task, since people kinda like keeping these fabrication secrets to themselves.
This scoop IS for the 90-91... but fear not... since I've a good scoop design, it wont take very long to remake it for the 92 to 93 legacy...
I was hoping to be this far LAST week, but shipping the brushable silicone took a good while. I think this weekend will be promising for production!
my silicone takes 24 hours to fully cure, so tonight i should be able to sit back and relax... i did the finishing touches on another layer last night about 2am.
Friday will be the last coat of brush-on silicone and indexing for the mother mold. and I'll be ready to make the mother mold on Saturday. The plastic mother mold cures in mere hours, so i'll de mold the scoop, mold and casing(mother mold) and be laying up my first scoop saturday night.
Re: (Pre-facelift) New and Improved Hood Scoop Build = Done!
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 5:57 pm
by SubyFusion
You need to invest in some tooling gel coat. Sprays in with an air gun and will make the mold perfectly smooth. and when you are laying up a mold, you are suppose to put the gel coat in first then lay up your sheets of fiber glass on top. Otherwise there is a lot of sanding involved like shown. I don't know if you have problems pulling your mold but PVA is not that great by its self, try some Meguiar's mold release, works way better then PVA. Also what type of resin are you using? I would assume its polyester, or Vinylester. Poly is cheaper then Vinyl, and its no problem for what you are doing since there is not much strength required. If you have any questions feel free to ask, I am certified in composite tooling, manufacturing, and production. I work repairing and manufacturing wind turbine blades, so I do this stuff everyday.
Re: (Pre-facelift) New and Improved Hood Scoop Build = Done!
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:09 pm
by Legacy Rally Guy
SubyFusion wrote:You need to invest in some tooling gel coat..
I've already got a can of it. hehe
SubyFusion wrote:Otherwise there is a lot of sanding involved like shown..
The surface that'll have my gelcoat is glossy smooth, unless you're talking about my earlier stuff, YEAH, I was doing it all wrong at first
i'm using the less than cheap Vinyl resin.. it's awesome/strong, but yeah- a bit costly...
SubyFusion wrote:If you have any questions feel free to ask, I am certified in composite tooling, manufacturing, and production. I work repairing and manufacturing wind turbine blades, so I do this stuff everyday.
Oh hells yeah, sounds great! I picked up a lot of my supplies from freeman manufacturing and aero marine supply... I spent the money making sure I've the right mold releases/waxes/sealers/resins.. You'll like my way of handling the demolding process. hehe I'm putting small cylinder shaped indexing pices on the skin, so the mother mold and silicone LOCK together, I'm trying to avoid having my silicone mold stretch when I don't want it to...
http://www.jgreer.com/mother-mold.htm <using this stuff...
Re: (Pre-facelift) New and Improved Hood Scoop Build = Done!
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 9:08 pm
by SubyFusion
Do you spray/brush the gel coat in the mold first and then lay up your glass? or are you putting the gel coat on after you pull the part? It is alot easier to do it in the mold. why are you using a silicon mold, why not just make a fiberglass mold. If you are planning on pulling alot of parts it would be a better investment because they last longer and do not shrink/warp as fast. As for using vinylester resin it would save you alot more money to use polyester, it will be a little bit weaker but have more then enough strength for a hood scoop. also what type of glass are you using?
VBR
Brian

Re: (Pre-facelift) New and Improved Hood Scoop Build = Done!
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:03 am
by Legacy Rally Guy
SubyFusion wrote:Do you spray/brush the gel coat in the mold first and then lay up your glass? or are you putting the gel coat on after you pull the part? It is alot easier to do it in the mold. why are you using a silicon mold, why not just make a fiberglass mold. If you are planning on pulling alot of parts it would be a better investment because they last longer and do not shrink/warp as fast. As for using vinylester resin it would save you alot more money to use polyester, it will be a little bit weaker but have more then enough strength for a hood scoop. also what type of glass are you using?
VBR
Brian

I'll probably brush it into the mold after I spray in my mold release. should make for a smoooth finish..
I was going to make a fiberglass mold, but silicone seemed like it might make more parts... I might experiment later...
Hmm, I was aware silicone is floppy, but I didn't think it'd be a problem warping... I put indexing plugs on a resin shell, so the silicone kinda snaps into place... it keeps me from having to flex the piece that holds the shape much.. the silicone just unplugs from the candy shell and then I can peel the silicone off the part...
my fiberglass resin and glass are going to be from Bondo I think.. it's the regular chopped fiber...
Here's the pictures I just took of my mold.
I just washed it, if you see stuff that looks like bubbles, that's just water droplets.
Re: (Pre-facelift) New and Improved Hood Scoop Build = Done!
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:32 am
by SubyFusion
I am still confused at to why you are using silicon??? we only use silicon for special parts such a plastic, but for what your doing a fiberglass mold is perfect. Fiberglass is also alot cheaper then silicon. Also are you still using pva? if so I would not recommend it as pva tends to leave an orange peel in the gel coat, use the wax it work way better. If you are using wax how are you going about applying it? coats ect. let me know I am just trying to help out
