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Hey guys, having a wierd issue with the car. After coming across the coolant line being sliced open, I obviously replaced the line and filled it up with coolant. Ended up getting an air bubble in there, so I took off the coolant tank cap, and let it idle for 20 minutes or so, adding coolant as the bubbles came. Put the cap back on, and the car ran perfect.

Parked it for the night, and started it up in the morning, and it ran like crap, "like" it did when the bubble was in there. So I took the cap off again and let it warm up, the idle jumped up and the motor started running smooth again. Now I am to the point where everytime I start it, it runs really crappy, but once it is warmed up it runs nearly perfect. If there was still an air bubble, it would run crappy the whole time/overheat and such wouldnt it? Im just confused on why this would be happening, and ONLY when its started cold. Thanks in advance

leave a little out of your coolant tank so it's not quite full. Leave it open and pump your upper rad hose until all the bubbles come out and keep refilling as needed. Also, when you did your install, what did you do with the ignitor bracket. Make sure it's bolted to something so the bracket is grounded.

I just moved it to the drivers side, and screwed it into the hole for the bracket that was there.... I didn't realize that was how it was grounded though, so once I have the TMIC off for your Td04 install, ill take a wire brush to the paint in that spot. It probably isn't grounded so well ATM haha.. but it hasn't always done this, ONLY after I had to swap coolant lines. Like I said it runs fine when its warmed up and such, but just idles like shit until its warm

Starting to sound like the coolant temp sensor possibly...

yea, thats kinda what I was thinking, but that was changed less than a year ago so I wouldn't expect it, but I could certainly be wrong

Section 2-7c / page 77 has the diagnostic details for the water temp senor. Josh has the FSM on his site (also in the stuff you need to know forum). If you have a way to connect to the ECU with a laptop, you can also monitor the probe during warmup. 80-95* C after warmup is normal.

ehhhh... dont have a laptop yet... I would be suprised if it was already bad but ill do some searching around and see if the symptoms sound like mine.

Mattheww044 wrote:yea, thats kinda what I was thinking, but that was changed less than a year ago so I wouldn't expect it, but I could certainly be wrong

I replaced the coolant temp when I had it, so like what.. 10k miles ago??

Didnt it come up with a CEL for knock sensor? Thats my guess...plus check this out: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=43027

Well it's a possibility, but the car certainly isn't running slow, dedinately the fastest it's been

changed the coolant temp sensor today, clearing the codes as we speak. Probably gonna do my knock sensor too since it came up in the stored codes, but I don't think its been replaced

Mattheww044 wrote:...but I don't think its been replaced

The connector grey or white? White is the 'newer' model, which would mean it's been at replaced once since it left the dealer lot.

I'll have to check that. That's very helpful and thanks for the info. Would a bad KS cause a slight "buck" when at WOT and/or bad mpgs by chance? Is it safebto use a used one?

If the ECU detects too much knocking and starts to reduce the timing (aka 'knock retardation' parameter increases suddenly), you will feel some light bucking. I sadly speak from experience and have the data logs to back it.

With out data logging, you're really shooting in the dark as to what your problem(s) might be though.

ya, thats very understandable, I dont know jack Sh** about datalogging and all that though. Im probably gonna buy that RT cable, but since he isn't around to send it, Im gonna wait

The EvoScan subaru usb cable works 100% with revscan too -- thats what I've got.

nice, is it better? or about the same? and does the Revscan software come with it?

It's the same. No it doesn't come with EvoScan software, that's extra. RevScan is free though.

Nice, is the software basically the same? I kinda wanna support the RevTronix for what he has done for our community, if it is as good as the EvoScan

Entirely different pieces of software.

EvoScan is really meant for ODB-II cars and has a lot of custom stuff for Evo's. It also offers the ability to program in the locations and conversion factors for any ECU. Myself and a few others have taken the time to figure out these things and have posted the config files (there is a thread on the electrical forum with them). One trump card EvoScan holds over RevScan atm is the ability to data log wideband sensors.

RevScan has several advanced features for our cars. reset the ecu and error codes via software. look at fuel/knock detection/spark correction tables. able to change a few ECU parameters (octane factor being an important one along with some fuel trims).

Revscan is secretive about the parameters and conversion factors, which makes me wonder at times how accurate the data shown really is. For example, one can spy on the COM port and see what ECU addresses RevScan is requesting from the car. If you then take that info and make EvoScan use the same address, you some times arrive at different data. Mike has never revealed the method revscan uses for the data logging/parameter conversions, even after questioning. The software has a few minor bugs still, but overall is pretty decent and targeted speficially for our cars.

very nice. Ill probably just go with the Revscan since im new to all that kinda stuff and like you said its made specifically for our cars. Ill definately check out the EvoScan though once I learn more about all of this

OK, changed the CTS, and something still isnt right. I "cleared the codes" had the - battery cable off for about ~36 hours and it still didn't clear them, I don't get it. It still came up with the same codes, and ive changed at least 3 of those in the last couple months. So let me get this right.... plug in the green AND black connectors, and constantly drive 7mph or above in 4th gear for a consecutive minute or more, and it will clear them correct? I would really like to find out whats wrong before I throw the Td04 on and stuff.

BTW, I threw my sti BPV on today running full atmosphere and JESUS it is loud. Sounds pretty sweet, but doesn't run quite as good. I think the fact that its supposed to be recircing doesnt help. Ill probably buy some BOV for cheap on nasioc or something and try it, and if it still runs crappy, ill go back to recirc.

1) As documented lots on the forum, pulling the battery will not properly reset the ECU. The FSM instructions below:


2) As documented lots on the forum, running a BOV on our cars might "work" but its not going to run properly due to the ECU calculating for a BPV. Going to be super rich on the shifts.

Ok I just wanted to double check on the reset.

And I know the bov isn't meant for our cars I just wanted to try it out