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What wheels are those? I've been looking for some nice thin-spoke wheels in white forever.

Rota Torques

So after the FMIC install. I notice my brakes are somewhat weaker than before. I wonder if I missed an vacuum lines? I am going to check it out tomorrow. The steering wheel nut is now off the car and fell off during normal driving. really shitty. The steering wheel can easily be removed and I need to drive carefully till I fix the threads on the steering rack.

That is scary man. You should fix that right away.

hey if you need another column i have one.

Black front mount FTW! Showing off your shinny front mount through the bumper is so NACIOC.

i fixed the column with a thread repair kit loaner tool from my work. worked perfect. steering wheel is now secure with locktight.

I just order rotors and brake pads for the front and rear

I am having a hard time finding a rear rotor (vented).

anyone have any good places/recommendations?

does it have to be brand new? ive got rotors for an SS they've been sitting on the car un driven for several years so they need cleaned.

Brake job decision:
any input?
Check and Turn Stock Rotors (FREE)
Buy new 03 wrx front rotors ($50 a piece,discounted, O'Reilly)
Ceramic pads($28 discounted, O'Reilly)

Check and turn rear rotors (FREE)
EBC Rear Rotors (31 a piece, autoparts gaint)
Ceramic Pads($34 dollars, discounted, O'Reilly)

Unless you're getting vented EBC rotors in the rear, keep the stockers.

What pads are you going to use?

Oh I forgot to mention why I am doing this brake job. It is because one night I was driving on a couple of backroads and when I attempted to come to a complete stop I began to lose the brake pedal and locked up the front right wheel and created a decent amount of smoke. I then proceeded the next few days cautiously and check my brake fluid level, which was almost empty. DUHH. I topped it off with more DOT4 and it still was acting up. The brake pedal would have to be 1/2 way down in order to brake and when I pushed harder, lock up.
I then decided I would just do the brakes.

I am going to get those EBC vented rotors, and the pads I am going to use for the front and rear are called brakebest, which is the house brand, but I am getting the top of the line, ceramic. The main reason for these is because
1. I work there
2. These have a lifetime warranty which include wear
3. I can swap them out at anytime for something else

I just finished up replacing the front rotor and pads and boy what a difference. I feel more confident when braking and driving my car around. PLUS I love the look of the rotor without that NASTY RUST. its a black coated center hub and veins.

Damn nice,and I never say that.

+1

New part:

06-07 Subaru Legacy V-Lip
from ebay but looks good.
Upgraded from homedepo garage seal
the lip sticks out further but apply some heat and use razor blades and it comes out very nice.













Now I need help/input on where/how to mount the license plate.

Yeah that mounting location isn't lookin too good. Did you take the bumper off just to put the lip on? I put mine on with the bumper on the car.

I'm mounting mine offset from the stock location. I'm replacing all the rusted steel bumper cover mounting strips with aluminum and using a piece of 90* alloy for the plate, but I don't like the center location, so I'm going to mount it offset to the right. Or left. I don't know—whatever I feel like when I get it back together.

Having a FMIC, you might want to drill two holes in the cover a little lower to where you have it now or in the upper part of the black molding offset as far as you can go to one side without covering the blinker. Or you could fab 2 simple brackets that bolt into the beam and come out of that center intake like how you have it now, but not looking like it's ready to fall off. Or I guess you could do what I'm doing, but make the bracket a little different so that you can mount the plate further offset to get most of it out of the intake area. If you want to be really slick, you could build a small shroud behind the side of the plate that's adjacent to the intercooler to duct air more cleanly into it.

well I did the FMIC and the lip at the same time. 2 birds 1 stone.

UPDATE: Finally decided on a location for my front license plate, its held on by titanium velcro, strong shit. chopped it up a little bit but i chopped it only what a frame would block.



holds great, did a couple of high speed passes and its all good.

HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM, I last time I changed my oil I tried about rotella t 5w-40; since I heard great things about it and in my opinion it created problems for my engine. I developed a ticking noise. I changed the oil back to mobile 1 and it still ticks so I am guessing that the engine is just needs some adjusting. I did some research and I believe the problem is the HLA. I posted a youtube video to see if anyone agrees with me and advice on how to fix it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rz3ZcTU9Vmg

That's exactly what it is. Put half of a bottle of Sea Foam into the oil and drive the car...hard. Go WOT to redline 5 or 6 times. The noise should disappear after that. Then change the oil.

I had that problem so many times with that car. I finally replaced every lifter and it didn't have a problem.

That said, the problem is probably the thickness of the oil you used. 5w-40 would be fine on an older engine, however that one was rebuilt. 10w-30 should be fine.

I put in Mobile1 10-30 High Mileage, just the other day. sucks to do that now there goes $$$ down the drain.

ATF works in place of seafoam and is much cheaper. Just don't forget to change your oil and filter shortly after.

did the seafoam and it went away for a day and then its back. I am debating on taking some oil out and putting in a bottle of lucas oil stabilzer. any thoughts?

I had the same issue. Bled my HLA's 3 different times, but it kept coming back. 4th time around i bled them again, and stuck a straw in the oil passage once the rocker arm was off. Moved it in and out and felt some sludge in there. Once i did that, they never went flat again...