knock sensor

[morgie]

Last sunday i did connect the two black / green wires under the steering...

ignition On, there was a "click... click ... click .... click" sound coming from under the steering / dash ... pushed the gas pedal a bit 1 sec, then turned the ignition

(i wasn't able to find that 'how to reset the ecu" documentation ,so i did it by .. memory) ... went for a drive ... and 2 minutes later I got a "32" error code via the Check Engine Light...


I never had a Check engine before, and don't have any this week either...

32 = O2 sensor not working...

I remember that i tried to start the engine witout the o2 one month ago... maybe it is that code that came back last sunday.. nyway

--> is that check engine code prevented the ECU to reset properly ?

--> will i have to unplug the battery for ... 15mins to properly reset it ??


------- Edit ---------

Today, Snow day.... 140km With 1/2 of the tank ...ok ok i was often "pedal to the metal" ... but... is a bad o2 sensor can cause the engine consumption to rise "skyhigh" ? From Friday till this morning, 260km with 3/4 of the tank ...

[Aaron's ej22t]

i alway un-hook the neg. side of the battery for an ecu reset.
here, do this:
-unplug negative side for 30min
-hook back up and start car with all accessories off. don't touch the pedals gas/brake.
-let it idle for about 15min
-turn it off, then turn it back on and go drive it.

-aaron

[Legacy777]

The two connectors (green & black) connected to their respective colors only clears the codes in the ECU

It does not reset the ECU.

You need to do the battery method, or reset it with a select monitor.

All the instructions for resetting the ECU & pulling codes can be found on my site.

[morgie]

1 - did a quick test today, unplugued the BOV and let the return hose open ..(so more air was induced into the engine without being calculated by the MAF) Leaner Air/fuel mixture, and the car was pulling real hard and clean, no hesitation at all, and a lot more power !! on the Air/Fuel Gauge, i was getting 2 leds orange and 2 leds green...not so bad i think

2- Legacy777 : Duh, that was the site i was looking for, without knowing it was your's and ... without being able to find it it won't appen anymore.. i swear

3- I'll do that ECU reset thing right now... The car pulls so much when it runs well !! hehe

[morgie]

Just did that ecu reset thing... a bit of improvements but not a lot

the best modif i see is still the BOV one but..not sure how bad on the engine it is ! :\

[ciper]

I suggest a quick test, switch to another name brand gas and try using the highest octane in that brand available for one full tank (fill up when near empty).

Then when the tank is half empty reset the ECU again and drive around and see if the problem exists.

[Aaron's ej22t]

morgie, is your bov now vented to the atmosphere? if so, that is going to make your car run rich, not lean.

[morgie]

Aaron : Yup atmosphere... I agree with you, it will run more rich the instant that the BOV open to the atmosphere... but it will run leaner the other time simply because i haven't blocked the bypass hose, so there is a big hole in the intake... air is sucked from that hose and that hose is after the MAF, before the Turbo


Ciper : that's a good idea, but no use for it here in quebec City !, all the Brands (Esso, Shell, Petro-Canada, ultramar, etc) takes their gaz from the same Rafinery (the Ultramar one) .... so except for some little "additive", it's pretty much the same from one brand to another !! hehe

[Legacy777]

Morgie,

When you have a hole in the intake essentually......and have boost.....you are going to be expelling air.....not drawing it in.

So you're not going to be getting more air......you're goin to be getting less.

[morgie]

Legacy777 : correct me if i'm wrong .... not if that hole is in front of the turbo ! the hose i'm talking about is the one that goes from the BOV to the 90 degre bent black hose that connects right in front of the turbo ...

Air-Box -­> MAF -> 90 degres bent towards the right -> Black box -> 90 bent down, into the turbo.

the hose connects into the last 90bent in front of the turbo, so air is sucked , not expelled.

[Legacy777]

morgie,

yes you are correct. I was unaware of where it dumped back in.

So basically you have a vent to atmosphere BOV setup.

What happens if you just plug the hose goin back to the intake, and have a purely vent to atmosphere BOV setup?

What happens then? If you hesitation comes back, you could link to the rich/lean burning issues.

if not....could be other issues.

[morgie]

Legacy777: no problem for your mistake

I did that exact test last evening... BOV to atmosphere, and blocked the bypass hose with a wine cap/sleeve/"bouchon de liege"

and .. as i expected, the hesitation came back !


on the I-club, someone suggested the Coolant Temp Sensor to be influent on the richness of the mixture. (temp to hot, need more gaz to cool down the engine.. seems logical)

also MAF (doubt of it, it would be the opposite if it was failing... reading less air...),

or O2 sensor.


I'll take a look at these 'avenues'


p.s. : the words between ' ' in my posts are words that i'm not sure if they exists / are correct in english

[Legacy777]

the coolant temp avenue. Usually if the engine is colder, it will get more gas. Hotter engine within a certain range should use less gas then a "cold" engine.

MAF is also another possibility. I've been conversing with Al about some hesitation issues I'm having.....he said he has seen some values from the MAF that when the intake opens it can draw too much air and create a void type of thing where the MAF is.

In your test, leaving the BOV opening not closed up, you create an avenue to get some more air into the intake tract, as to not create the large low pressure area in the intake.

Hmmmm....I think I'm goin to play with this idea as well

[morgie]

I called a guy down here who is proprio of a 'speed shop' ... i talked to him about my hesitation problem ...

first thing he asked was my spark plugs gap

"my gap is 0.035"... oem it's from 0.039 to 0.043"
"Ok, first thing before doing anything else, Gap your plugs to at least 0.030"... on Eagle Talons, wen we were pushing them behond 10psi of boost, we were experiencing hesitation problem like you mentionned, and had to gap the plugs to 0.030 and even 0.028'" .....


so i'll do this tomorrow or friday... wish me good luck !! haha

[Adambc5]

But the gap on a T/E/L is supposed to be that low...run the recommend plug (or one step colder) and run the recommended gap as well.

I too am starting to get hesitation now that the weather is here....I am going to turn the boost down tomorrow and see what happens, then start looking at MAF values, etc. and try and track it down.

Knock sensor and O2 sensor are new, so doubtful it is those..gas mileage is still pretty good too considering I am hard on the car.

Also am going to look at the ingition coil and ignitior, as I know they are original pieces (and now have 172k miles!)

[morgie]

plugs i use are NGK G-Power (platinum "el cheapos" )




keep us informed of any researchs / discoveries you make .. cuz i'm realy tired off that problem ... and I definitely need .. a GOOD and a REAL solution ! @$%$

[Legacy777]

yeah......let's try and track down this hesitation BS. I have it on mine from stop to about 3000.....and then pulls after that.

if I bring on the gas slowly.....it's not quite as noticable. I really think Al has something with the intake idea.

Also....just a tid-bit which I need to do some more research on. In the morning when the engine is cold the IAC valve's duty cylce is great, as well as the coolant portion being open. So there is more air able to go into the engine....if you have a bogging effect when flooring. This effect is less noticeable when the engine is cold......I don't know.....I need to do some more playing.

[Adambc5]

Well here is my update for today. Pulled my plugs out (Denso Iridium IK22, which are colder than stock). These plugs were put in about 2 weeks ago..car has been hesitating for only the last week or so. Anyway, teh plugs were spotless....as if there was not even any fuel being expelled, or if there were, it ws all being burned. Anyway, this made zero sense to me, but nevertheless, I put a new set of Bosch Coppers back in (stock temp range), and torqued to spec...car ran exactly the same....hmmmm.

So then I start thinking out loud, and start testing ignition components. First test is the coil. There are 2 resitance tests to do...one is between the popsts (where the spark plug wires connect), the other is between the pins in the three wire plug that connects to the ignitor. The coil passed the first test, but failed the second (though not by much). These test measure resitance in ohms betweenthe terminals. In any event, I ordere a new coil today, and it will be on the car tomorrow..will report then.

I figured I would try and see if it were boost referenced. Usually I run 1.0-1.1 bar on my car (16G turbo and top mount IC, Walbro pump). I turned boost down to 10 psi..still did it...hmmm.

So for S&G, I put some techron fuel injector cleaner in tonight....within 5 miles, car ran good again..slight hesitation, not nothing like it was 9and this was back at 1.0 bar)...so maybe my injectors, after 172k miles (original!), need a cleaning and rebalancing..anyone have a spare set they want to part with? Or if not, need to start researching upgraded units.....are ours top opf side feed?

[Legacy777]

Adam,

Something I have been told that contributes a bit to the hesitation on subaru motors is the fact they are carbon piggies.

They tend to build up quite a bit of carbon on the valves & that can cause your hesitation.

I've run two tanks of techron cleaner through....and the hesitation is still there.

I'm going to be getting a set of balanced & blue printed injectors hopefully in the next few weeks. That may or may not help solve my problem. Mine got 165k on them....so they probably could use some help as well.

I'm pretty sure the injectors are side feed.....but it would be best to double check.

As far as the valves go.....you might be able to pick up some of that intake cleaner stuff. Where you hook it up to a vacuum line on the intake manifold & let the engine suck it down.

I did this before......and I don't think I had it setup the best way.....plus I don't really remember how the car ran afterwards.

I had the cleaner going through the brake booster vacuum line......well the cleaner got mostly to the one side of the engine....but not so much on the other side. So if i do it again.....I'll probably find a fitting that will screw into the PCV location & hook the cleaner up to that vacuum source since it's more centrally located.

I got my cleaner stuff here http://carfood.net/

I would only recommend the fuel & vacuum cleaner. http://carfood.net/trim2parrefo.html

The TB is not neccessary with subies....and if you mess with it....you're asking for trouble.....ask me....I KNOW!!!

If you get just the refill kit, you need this little bottle thing http://store6.yimg.com/I/tri-maxx2000_1713_1170406 Which you could probably just make, or rig something else up......