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If I get the 1 1/16 bore MC will it just bolt into my non abs legacy?

Sorry, I've got no information about whether or not if the master cylinder will just fit or not. There were a couple comments about an svx master cylinder from which i inferred that the process was relatively painless.


I'm stuck on brake lines. Someone on Sl-i was saying that when you get brake lines you choose your car, not what the calipers are. Is this the case? So even if i install 05 wrx calipers in the front and 03 legacy calipers in the back, i need to get technafit sub-1000 for 93-01 imprezas, NOT sub-1050 for 02-07 wrxs OR sub-1108 for 01-04 Legacy L & LS right?

All brake lines have the same fittings iirc

I can confirm that brake lines have the same fittings. Only difference is how they're attached to the strut. I've got a set for a '02-'05 WRX on the front of my wagon with WRX calipers.
I also have EBC greenstuff pads on the front and like them. Great for daily driving, good initial bite, virtually no warm up needed. They do dust a little more, but with steel wheels, who cares?
If you powercoat the calipers, they'll need rebuild due to the powdercoating needing to be baked on.

Someperson wrote:All brake lines have the same fittings iirc

beatersubi wrote:I can confirm that brake lines have the same fittings. Only difference is how they're attached to the strut. I've got a set for a '02-'05 WRX on the front of my wagon with WRX calipers.

Thanks for the input guys! So i have kyb gr-2 struts all the way around then. What lines should I get to not have to use zip ties since all the fittings on either end are the same?

beatersubi wrote:If you powercoat the calipers, they'll need rebuild due to the powdercoating needing to be baked on.

Is it possible to take apart the brakes and then just reuse the pieces? or do i have to do a rebuild? What should a rebuild kit cost?

No idea on a rebuild kit cost, but that would be your best choice after dis-assembly. I would cation that the powercoaters be sure not to coat the piston bores, but if they know what they're doing, they likely already know.
Get the brake lines that match the struts for proper attachment. I've been using zip-ties for a few years now with no problems. I just replace them when I do any brake work.

zip ties are a gift from the gods, WORSHIP THEM!

I wonder if my lines will fit the struts properly. They're for 1st gen legacy but I have gc coilovers. I'm also curious if its worth it to rebuild the calipers yourself and how much that costs.

Kimo, I guess we could try and do a swap on lines if you want. If you want i'll buy a set of gc lines and since i'm running kyb gr2 struts, the legacy lines should fit my struts (i think). That being said it sounds like it's not really an issue anyways since you can use zip ties and what not.

Rear Rotors came yesterday. I'm wondering how long it will take to get everything i need at a reasonable price lol.







I'm thinking it might be worth it to do a rebuild kit on the calipers if the price is right, just for the sake of confidence in the parts. I'll have to look around since i'll need two for wrx fronts and two for legacy rears.

These might be the right kit, but i'm not sure. They look massively universal, which kind of scares me. Can anyone comment on this? Does brand matter? I mean, i'm sure it does to a certain extent, but for whatever reason centric sets seem to be 3 times as much.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/compat ... d=005&i=50

Went to VTR to get caliper rebuild kits. Centric fronts, Carlson backs. $21.84 total. I'll post parts numbers later.

Damn that's cheap. I think ill go that route. Sand blast, paint and rebuild.

Holy damn

Keep in mind these are just the rubber parts pretty much.

05 WRX Front Calipers - Centric 143.42017



03 Legacy L Rear Calipers - Carlson 15155

Mike dropped off the rear calipers today. Then we went for a drink.

Thinking I might go with G2 Caliper paint. Anyone have any experience with this? If I do, I might not have to rebuild my calipers, in which case I could either return the kits or sell them.

Jamal sent me some goodies which arrived today.



The caliper stickers also arrived today, but i'm pretty certain they'll be too big.

Someperson wrote:I'm going to be putting new brakes all the way around, what is the max I can get into 15s?

Not sure if this was answered, but if you want to stick with 15" wheels, the turbo legacy brakes are probably as big as you can go.

Someperson wrote:If I get the 1 1/16 bore MC will it just bolt into my non abs legacy?

No, the ABS MC has 2-ports for the brake lines, where the non-ABS MC has 4-ports. The only 1-1/16" bore non-ABS MC came on the non-abs SVX. You might be able to find a used or reman'd one, but that's going to be your only route. I'd shoot for early 90's around 94, if you go looking.

originalcyn wrote:I'm stuck on brake lines. Someone on Sl-i was saying that when you get brake lines you choose your car, not what the calipers are. Is this the case? So even if i install 05 wrx calipers in the front and 03 legacy calipers in the back, i need to get technafit sub-1000 for 93-01 imprezas, NOT sub-1050 for 02-07 wrxs OR sub-1108 for 01-04 Legacy L & LS right?

I think you got this sorted out, but just in case, You should use the lines that match the struts that are in your car. The 90-99 Legacies and first gen Imprezas all had brake lines that passed through a hole on the strut. It was kind of a pain because you had to open the brake system to change the strut. The newer style has a clip and bolts to the strut. As it's been mentioned, most people will just zip tie the newer lines to the struts.

originalcyn wrote:Keep in mind these are just the rubber parts pretty much.

05 WRX Front Calipers - Centric 143.42017

03 Legacy L Rear Calipers - Carlson 15155

I'll tell you that rebuilding the calipers is kind of a pain in the ass. Removing the pistons can be challenging. The best way is to use an air compressor blow gun on the caliper, which will push the pistons out. Make sure not have your hands between the piston and the caliper, because it will get pinched. Easiest thing is to set the caliper on the ground and put your foot on it, so it doesn't move around. Also, it's not a bad idea to just put a towel or rag between the pistons and caliper to keep from scraping up the pistons.

The kit should contain a new rubber boot and a seal that goes inside the caliper. When you get ready to install the piston and boot....now comes the real pain in the ass. Getting the boot to seat in the proper groove in the caliper while trying to push the piston back in is a pain in the butt! I only did one caliper and it was about 10 years ago, so I don't remember all the details. You'll just have to keep at it.

originalcyn wrote:Thinking I might go with G2 Caliper paint. Anyone have any experience with this? If I do, I might not have to rebuild my calipers, in which case I could either return the kits or sell them.

I haven't used it, but have heard of some folks that have. It's thicker than your standard spray paint. I think you brush it on....if I'm thinking of the right stuff.

As long as the paint you're using has the appropriate temp rating you should be good. Paint that is "brake" specific will probably work a little better. Typically hight temp paint cures a little more after it's had some heat on it. Remember brake fluid will eat through paint, so try not to spill any on the freshly painted calipers.

With any painting, the results are all in the prep work. Make sure to clean the calipers very very well. For a last stage cleaning, use some Eagle 1 Mag wheel cleaner. It's a mild corrosive and helps prep the surface.

Front rotors are here. They look remarkably like the rears, so I opted to not take photos.

Josh, thank you for answering all those!

I'm not planning on changing my struts again anytime soon, so i think i'll be ok. But it's good to get another confirmation on that.

I can already tell that the caliper rebuild is going to be a pain. But i'm already too far into the game to go back on it. Especially since I decided to continue with the powdercoating idea. Sounds like the guy i get powdercoating done from has done calipers before, so that was reassuring.

The g2 paint has a remarkably high rating on amazon. Even though the number of reviews is relatively low (22), it's still 5 stars, at least for the red version.

The pistons of the calipers i got are rusty on the inside where the piston forms a cup for lack of a better term. Has anyone cleaned a set of calipers? How would you go about cleaning the inside of those pistons? sand blasting seems like a terrible idea, so maybe just a light file? or sand paper some how i guess?

Just another thing with the struts & brake lines, what myself and others have done is just cut a slit in the strut tab that you can bend down and slide the brake line in and then bend the tab back up. That keeps you from having to open the brake system up.

As for the rusty pistons....I'm assuming you're talking about the inside cup of the piston that is exposed to the elements? If so, and the outside part of the piston that seals inside the caliper is ok, you could tape off that part of the piston and try sand blasting out the rusty part. You would need to paint or do something to help protect that piston so it doesn't rust right away. Alternatively to sand blasting you could try a file or wire brush on a drill.

Legacy777 wrote:Just another thing with the struts & brake lines, what myself and others have done is just cut a slit in the strut that you can bend down and slide the brake line in and then bend the tab back up. That keeps you from having to open the brake system up.

I know that you meant to say the brake line holder tab, but I'll specify just for safety's sake.

Another thing to try on the caliper pistons is emery cloth.