legacycentral bbs

Yeah...just checked Josh's Parts book and it's the same for ALL '91-94 Turbos and '90-'91 Manual/5-speed NA models: P/N 22680AA170 - still show avl. on Subarugenuineparts.com for $331 or $299 on subarupartsforyou.com....ouch.

Learn something new every day.....

Thanks guys and sorry of confusing you with metric,miles,bar etc. I´m from sweden and I like to messure in bar and metric. Just konverted to miles to blend in ,got it wrong with bar and not psi *dooohh*
Anyway,I don´t know if I want to take a chance on a us metal maf,it much cheaper than here but it´ll take to long time to get it here and as I said earlier I have to drive the car to work on monday.

How about failsafe/limp home,can I run it a couple of weeks in failsafe without damageing something else?

......and yes it´s a plastic one with green lable. My friend maf was the same,took for granted that green and green was interchangeble!...?

Forgive me if you already posted it, but what is the part # off your current MAF sensor

As for fail safe....you might be able to drive it....depending on how bad or rich it is. The risk, especially if it's very rich is that the excess fuel could wash the oil from the cylinders and score the cylinder. I honestly don't think it'll run very good in limp mode. Maybe it's running better than I anticipate it will, but you could driving it around on some low traffic roads to see how the car/engine responds.

part no. 22680aa160 A36-000 R60 Jecs
Then there is a specific no. on each maf but I don´t think that have to do with anything 4Y21B on mine and 1418B on my friend maf.
My subaru dealer wants us$600 for a oem maf!!!! Subaruonlineparts.com want 380 inkl shippment. So if I can drive in limp mode for 2-3 weeks I´ll save some $$$. The engine runs just fine in limp home mode but I only get 0,3 bar of boost,so no problem

Well that is the same MAF part # that the US cars got with the JECS ECU's. I know you said you didn't want to go with a used MAF, but it's the same MAF as what we have in the states if you can find someone with a known good one and will ship it to you.

If the car runs "just fine" but just doesn't go into boost, it seems weird the problem would be the MAF. If the MAF sensor wasn't working, the car wouldn't run hardly at all.

Out of curiosity, have done the "active diagnostic" with only the green diagnostic connectors?

Yes done the d-check with just the green conectors,but when I did that it never went bad,and when it did I couldn´t get it up to over 7 mph in a leat one minutes time No codes

I´m confused. There have to be some differnence between us and eu spec because when I unplug the maf it runs just fine but in low rpm and boost. You said youre cars a barely running without maf Back when I hade my my99 Impreza it would do the same,run fine but low rpm and boost.

I will one last time run the car without the maf connected,if the peoblem doesen´t reoccure I ´ll probebly will order a new oem from the states and run it in failsafe,hope for the best and a quick delivery.

If the MAF and wiring is good, you've either got another problem some where else or it could be the ECU. Any chance you've got a spare ECU or a friend that you can borrow a Legacy ECU from?

Regarding the difference between the US & EU and the car running without the MAF. Honestly, it's been a while since I've tried that, so I may be mistaken....and since I am running a stand alone, so I can't confirm that. If one of the US members wouldn't mind testing it, we could confirm whether unplugging the MAF just limits boost and keeps RPM's low.

Actually the more I think about it, that should be the fail safe functionality.

I got my cable for the evoscan program,to monitor what happens to my maf. The same day I got my usb evoscan cable we got cold weather and it has been running fine since. Tried to get the sympthom but the engine run just fine. Got another guy to lend me a maf thats really working but it doesen´t matter if I can´t get the engine to run bad as it use to do. The saga continues

Anybody knows if it "safe" to unscrew the conector on the maf housing? I´m thinking maybe a bad soldering

Are you talking about where the chassis connector plugs in?

You can try and see if it'll come out, but I have my doubts it'll come out easily, if at all.

As for now I´ll leave it and gonna drive it during the winter and deal with this problem when(it probebly comes back when...) spring comes. Over and out

Ok. Just want to give some feedback so others can trouble seek and find.
Well I found a used MAF and have run it all winter with no problem. Spring is here with much warmer weather and still there is'nt a hint of the original problem. So the code the ecu threw was accurate. Go figure
Problem solved then.....

Skickat från min GT-S7562 via Tapatalk 2

Thanks for the followup.