SS refuses to accelerate, fees like it misfires too?

[monkeyposeur]

I'll replace it to be safe.

Some possibly bad news though. My wife was driving the SS home from work today and ten minutes away she saw a lot of smoke coming up from under the hood. She just kept on driving and about two blocks from home the CEL came on. I looked under the hood and the upper radiator hose had split and there was coolant everywhere. The plastic reservoir was completely empty. I turned the key to get the electronics to come on and the temp gauge was all the way up.

I've reminded her to always check the temperature gauge but oh well. She has no idea when the temp went up to high. But she drove it for up to ten minutes with little to no coolant. I'll have to wait until Saturday to work on it. I hope she didn't destroy it.

Could the engine be toast? How long can the engine run hot without damage?

[cj91legss]

Oh man that's too bad..... In January when my headset failed i ran hot for awhile. Not ten minutes tho... Unfortunately length of time can't really determine if you're safe or not. Ill keep my fingers crossed for ya tho.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

[monkeyposeur]

Replaced the radiator hoses. No oil in the coolant. There was about a quart of coolant left in the radiator when I drained it. I Filled it back up w/antifreeze and purged air from the system and dumped a bottle of HEET in the gas tank. When I started it there was a hitch pitched noise that I never have heard before. I let it idle for a bit and I thought I could hear a slight rod knock or piston slap that went a way.

I took it for a spin and it was running great. Better than usual actually. The CEL came on so I connected the green connectors and got codes:

22-Knock Sensor
44-Dutcy control solenoid valve

I'll replace the knock sensor and see if that code clears, maybe the engine overheating fried it I hope. But I don't know what to do about 44. I don't even know where that solenoid valve is or where I could find one. I did a search but didn't come up with anything.

[turbo970]

if i remember right thats on the passenger side under the intake look for vacuum lines under the intake

[monkeyposeur]

I think I found it. There is a solenoid next to the boost control solenoid. What is funny is that I didn't get the misfire/boost leak thing happening on the test run. Maybe is has been on the fritz for a while and being broken is now helping my problem, lol.

Does anyone know what part I should replace exactly? I'm thinking Part no. 1? It's expensive ($150). I'd install an MBC but I have a stock exhaust and I don't know if it would be a good idea.





Maybe I'll be able to find a Diamond coil pack tomorrow.

I had a little less than half a tank of gas when I dumped in the bottle of HEET. Could that cause a knock?

[wtdash]

HI,
I'd replace the KS, reset the codes, and see if 44 comes back.

It is #1, aka BCS, which is your code 44.

Also, the #10 should be the 'dropping resistor' for the Automatic trans. If you get another one (if your car has an AT), or get one it will plug into the BCS - no wiring changes needed-, and you can use an MBC. The dropping resistor 'tricks' the ECU into thinking the BCS is hooked up. - Search on here.

An MBC won't hurt anything...it's the amount of boost that gets you in trouble. If you have a boost gauge, set your MBC to the stock 8.7 PSI. The fuel cut @ 13 psi will also keep you safe.

GL,
TD

[monkeyposeur]

I'd replace the KS, reset the codes, and see if 44 comes back.

Sorry, I don't know 'KS' means. My car does have the 4EAT so I will look for a dropping resistor at the junkyard.

Thanks for the information. A Hallman manual boost controller is $100, and an OEM Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) is at least $150. I have a boost gauge that I have yet to install.

[wtdash]

Hi,
I get too used to abbreviation. ..KS = knock sensor.

You don't need a Hallman. Buy one off ebay for $20 like THIS. Used this w/out issue....pretty simple - not much to it.

[monkeyposeur]

I ordered the mbc you suggested. It's not as slick looking as a Hallman but I'll let you know how it works out. I picked up a drop resistor from a 4EAT first gen as well.

I found a Diamond coil pack that was perfectly within specs at the junkyard. Primary coils were .7, and secondaries were 18.2. Fairly low miles for a salvage vehicle (108k). The engine looked to be in great shape. The only reason it was totaled was because of a passenger side collision that bent the control arm. I also nabbed the OEM knock sensor which I tested and it was within specs and no cracks.

I reset the ecu, cleaned and installed the Diamond coil pack and installed the knock sensor (trickier on a turbo than a n/a).

No more CELs. My wife is lucky she didn't destroy the engine.

The SS is performing better than since I have owned it! It accelerates, the throttle is responsive, turbo is spooling. It only did the misfire/boost leak once! I'll do a boost leak test and install the drop down sensor, boost gauge, and mbc next.

I most likely still have a boost leak but I am knocking down variables!!!

Thanks to everyone and bbs.legacycentral!

[Legacy777]

I took it for a spin and it was running great. Better than usual actually. The CEL came on so I connected the green connectors and got codes:

22-Knock Sensor
44-Dutcy control solenoid valve

Just an FYI, you should be using the black connectors to check for stored codes. The green connectors is the active diagnostic and has a little bit different test procedure. Instructions are on my site.

www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

[monkeyposeur]

I have been searching for the elusive black connectors ever since I got the SS. They must be tucked away in a hidden spot. I wiring harness is really tight and it is a fight just to get the green connectors joined. I have seen the black connectors in plenty of salvage vehicles so I am aware of their existence. But thanks, your site has been extremely informative and helpful.

I'm happy to report the SS is running great! Thanks again everyone! I'm still planning on doing a boost leak test, installing the boost gauge to see how much boost I am actually getting, and then install the mbc.

[wtdash]

The black connectors, for future reference, might have electrical tape covering the connectors, holding them to the wiring harness, so look for that in addition to the connectors.
TD

[Legacy777]

Also on the 93 & 94 MY's they may be on the other side of the steering column.

[monkeyposeur]

I installed a Prosport boost gauge today. It seems like the misfire/boost leak happens beginning around 5psi of boost. If I ease up to 5-8.7 psi I can usually not get the misfire.

I also did the 'Power Mode' mode. I installed a rocker switch w/LED to a relay which closes the ground circuit of TCU pin #4. A simple toggle switch would have worked but I wanted the switch to light up, lol. Anyway, it is super awesome. Car drives much sportier and holds shifts longer and accelerates super quick. In other words, the car is way more fun.

I finished building my boost leak detector so I can hook it up tomorrow and see how that goes. I know I need to plug up the PCV connections and the 'breather' hoses, but I don't really know what people mean by 'breather' hoses. If anyone has anything more specific to offer please do so.

My ebay MBC was lost in the mail and is over two weeks late. I complained and should get another one shipped any day. The stock boost was set at 8.7 psi, what is the limit that I can set the MBC? I am guessing keeping it at 8.7 psi until I install the XT tmic and TD04.

[wtdash]

Breather hoses are the 2 on each valve cover.

The MBC can be turned up to ~13 before fuel cut, but don't recommend that 'til you get your intercooler on....and your boost leak figured out. Why add another variable - u know?

TD

[monkeyposeur]

Thanks wtdash. I agree. I need to get the boost leak solved before I do anything else. I was just curious.

But I made some promising progress today! I hooked up my DIY bike pump powered boost leak detector and tried to pressurize the system. It wouldn't hold any pressure. I had my wife work the bike pump while I listened and sprayed soapy water on various connections. I could hear air leaking out near the turbo charger and I found a MAJOR boost leak! It was coming from the turbo inlet gasket. One of the bolts holding the inlet on was finger tight. Maybe when I put the engine back together I forgot to tighten that bolt?

I tightened it up and pumped the system up again. It still wouldn't hold pressure and I found another leak where the breather hose connects to the driver's side valve cover.

Next I took it for a spin. Much, much better. Still a boost leak if I really crank the throttle. Next I put some hose clamps on the breather hoses on the driver's side. Even better.

So tomorrow I will order a new turbo inlet gasket part no. 14415 AA030 (Part no. 17 in the diagram). Anyone know if it is a metal crush gasket or rubber?


I will also put hose clamps on the rest of the breather hoses and pcv connections. I hate the crappy stock spring clamps.

Hopefully replacing the inlet gasket will solve the problem once and for all. Even if it doesn't, it was a major boost leak and replacing it will help me find the next one. Yay! I feel like I am on the right track. Can't wait to order the new gasket tomorrow. Hopefully I will be able to find one.

[cj91legss]

Its just a paper like gasket

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

[monkeyposeur]

Hmm, so if I can't find an OEM replacement I may be able to make one out of something else? I'm going to see if I can order one from the dealership tomorrow but if they are no longer available does anyone have any ideas?

[wtdash]

I may have one of those gaskets, but I'd get a new one from the dealer. Subarugenuineparts.com had 'em for $5 and Jason @ Auburn Subaru (near Seattle) can likely get 'em too.
Jason Douglas (tell him you heard about him on a Subaru forum)
1-866-456-3025

I'm not sure why that bolt would be loose...not necessary to remove to rebuild the engine or to remove turbo??

I personally would just replace the PCV hoses (you can buy PCV-specific hose @ auto parts stores - do you have NAPA in SLC?). They get hard as rocks and brittle. Using hose clamps won't be necessary w/new lines.

TD

[monkeyposeur]

I ordered a new gasket for $7 from my local dealership. It might be here by Friday so I'll have to wait.

I remember removing that bolt when I dismantled the engine to rebuild it. I think I was having a hard time reaching the lower bolt that connects the oil line to the cylinder head or something so I removed the bolts that held it to the bracket and the top of the turbo. It was my first time rebuilding an engine so I didn't know what I was doing, honestly. I had no idea there was a gasket there, lol. Needless to say this whole process has taught me a lot about mechanics.

I have already replaced every single PCV hose. All but one are OEM subaru replacements. I have noticed a little bit of oil where the two hoses connect to the driver's cylinder head, and when I did the boost leak test pressure was leaking out of the hose closest to the firewall (which is the only non OEM line), so I figured hose clamps were in order. But it sounds like I don't need them on every connection.

Are the PCV lines under a lot of pressure during boost like the rest of the vacuum lines?

[Legacy777]

No, PCV lines are not under boost pressure.

Anything downstream of the turbo has the potential to be under pressure and would need to hold pressure. Anything upstream of the turbo inlet will see some sort of vacuum or near atmospheric pressure. The PCV system could get near atmospheric pressure, depending on how much blow by there is and how much vacuum is being generated in the intake piping.

[monkeyposeur]

Ok. So when i pressurized the system after tightening up the turbo inlet gasket cover air would leak out of the breather hose. This is no. 9 in the diagram. So some pressure got to it. But I guess you are saying that wouldn't be boost pressure? And why does everyone call the PCV lines coming off the valve cover breather hoses? It has been a source of confusion for me. Thanks for your patient responses.

[Legacy777]

You need to understand that under normal conditions you will never have any sort of positive pressure in the intake piping before the turbo, it will never happen. You are testing the system prior to the turbo to check for leaks, which is fine, but to say you will have a boost leak is incorrect. The connection and clamps may be perfectly fine to keep everything sealed up under vacuum, but may not be enough to keep leaks out under pressure. But as I mentioned, you will never have pressure in the intake piping before the turbo.

Make sense?

Regarding the naming convention....PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. The PCV system helps remove blow by gasses from the crankcase, so in a sense, it helps the crankcase "breathe". This is why the PCV lines have gotten the nickname breather hoses.

[monkeyposeur]

Awesome thanks Josh! That helps a lot.

The gasket arrived late this afternoon. Hopefully I can pick it up tomorrow and install it. I hope it fixes my boost leak issue!

[monkeyposeur]

I picked up the turbo inlet gasket from the dealership. I took off the turbo inlet and took the old gasket it off. It came off in pieces and was extremely brittle. Where it was leaking the gasket had stuck fast so I had to use a razor to clean the mating surface. I then compared the broken old gasket to my replacement and was disappointed to find that the new one was not the right size.




As you can see in the photo the bolt holes didn't line up either. So I filed the holes bigger and installed the gasket. It was the only thing I could do at that point. The old gasket seemed to be a brittle plastic and the new gasket was rubber with thin metal on the inside.



Well, it was a bitch to install. It wold have been easier if I took the turbo off or if I was able to get the throttle body intake off but it was extremely cold out today and the tb intake was not budging and I didn't want to risk breaking it. I accidentally broke the nipple of the EGR filter/valve thing that connect to the resonator (auxillary purge control valve). I JB welded it back on and iset it aside to cure and the meantime connected the three vacuum lines with a T fitting.

The replacement gasket appeared to be buckling in between the bolt holes and the turbo inlet. I was hoping it was making a good seal where the turbo inlet mating surface was.

I started it up and the first thing I noticed is that the boost gauge is no reading -6 psi at idle whereas before it was reading -20. I took it for a spin and it was another noticeable dramatic improvement. But once again, if I really push the throttle hard then I get the boost leak thing. It feels like it builds up and then releases in a big poof. I also noticed that I wasn't getting up to 8.7 psi of boost anymore. The most the gauge read was about 2-4 psi when i was really pushing it.

edit: My change in psi at idle is most likely because I don't have the aux purge control valve installed, right? I'll put it back on tomorrow when the JB weld cures.

I'll try and find the right gasket. The gasket I received from Subaru had the correct part number on the label. I'll contact them on Monday and see what they say. I am weary about ordering one from subarugenuineparts.com because if they get them from Subaru I will just get another wrong gasket. It would be about $16 from them, and $7 from the dealer.

I hate getting my hopes up that I am about to fix everything and the same old crap is still happening. At least I am seeing improvements. However this is getting pretty frustrating.

Anyone recognize the new gasket? What does it belong on?