Engine codes 22,23,32,45, and 49..... WTF

[turbo970]

i may have a xtra one but i'll need some time to find out because my car is in the trans shop

[Alphius]

Keep in mind that even if the ECU completely limits boost as low as it will go, you will still get wastegate pressure. The ECU has no way except fuel cut to completely disable boost.

Is your turbo intake collapsing under boost?

[Thesubielover]

Keep in mind that even if the ECU completely limits boost as low as it will go, you will still get wastegate pressure. The ECU has no way except fuel cut to completely disable boost.

Is your turbo intake collapsing under boost?

Yeah, I agree. When I am in first flooring it even through the bucking and shifting into second. It wil hesitate and boost up to 5 pounds for few seconds and then go back into like a fail safe vaccume mode. I remember my previous turbo intake symptoms, but this doesnt feel like same to me. I'll update everyone when I am able to change sensors. If this doesnt help, maybe you and I alphius can coordinate a date, anytime in the future to meet up.

[Alphius]

There is no fail safe vacuum mode. The ECU cannot limit boost to below wastegate in any way, aside from a hard fuel cut.

Yeah, if it doesn't get figured out I can take a look at it sometime.

[Thesubielover]

Update: After a few days of not getting upset with the way she is running, I pulled out the back seats and pulled off the passenger side fuel pump cover, which to me appears to seem in ok condition I am curious, HOW many wires actually go to the fuel pump? I have a red and black, but it appears that there is a small bolt hole with threads for a bolt with no fitting. I pulled the fuel level and sending unit on the drivers side as well. I noticed that it had a mesh filter on there too, so I pulled that off and blew threw it. I will add that the connectors electrical wise look to not be corroded for the fuel pump connections, the maf connector, and the map connector. I did however pull the vaccume line from the map sensor to the boost solenoid and when I blew threw it small amounts of water came out. Maybe some got sucked up into the little black box that houses the map sensor? I also pulled the fuel filter and looked like it was passing fuel through it quite easily when I poured it into my gas can. I did however pull a blown fuse thinking it was part of the issue, but it was for my hazards. Alphius, what dates are good for you after the 10th? And what time of the day usually?



What does it run like boost wise in limp mode and what causes limp mode?

[Alphius]

"limp mode" as some call it will be a nice smooth boost up to about 5psi max with a VF11. No jerking or stumbling or missing. If something like that is happening, there has to be a problem besides the ECU.

After the 10th, I am available for sure on the weekend of the 12th-13th pretty much any time. During the week isn't great because I work during daylight hours and I don't much care for hours of troubleshooting after dark with a flashlight.

[Thesubielover]

Yeah, its deff not in limp mode then. im off all weekends. Maybe we can get together january 13th? i can driver her up to you aswell. for the drive to you i plan on having in a new fuel filter, and hopefully map sensor, along with fuel pump, walbro 255. or i can swap those few things in then we can coordinate a weekend from there

[Alphius]

Whatever works for you. The next few weekends I am spending getting my LS1 swap running in my Camaro but I can take some time off here and there to help out if you get it up here.

I'm hoping we can find out what is wrong with it by borrowing the RevTronix cable from Mike and hooking it up to my laptop and watching the sensor values as we drive. But I'm sure we can do some old-fashioned troubleshooting and narrow it down as well.

[Thesubielover]

Oh, nice. Yeah, that would be a great idea. I cleaned up the intake to the turbo today, so there should not be any vacume leaks. I was noticing another member on here had found out that one or more of his fuel injectors was wide open all the time, so when ever he stepped on the throttle it flooded and started bucking. just a thought. but we will see what happens

[Thesubielover]

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 6&start=25

I put everything back together. I pulled the map sensor, fuel filter, looked at the pump which i can hear running, looked at the sender device? on the driver side next to the fuel pump and inspected that screen which seemed good. Next thing for me is to run the d check mode and see whats up with any active codes.

[randomiam]

bump; looks like this problem is now mine

Grabbed it not running.. swapped the fuel pump, fresh plugs and swapped in a good maf and its running but its still having hesitation issue; It's not throwing codes right off the bat but I haven't exactly driven it a whole lot. Checking the timing later today and a few other things.

Its definitely running rich, hesitation remains. I'll just keep swapping in known functioning components to narrow down the possibility.

[randomiam]

bump bump

hells yeah, shes running great now, no cel in sight!

Coolant temperature sensor was the culprit.

[Legacy777]

Damn! Glad you got it figured out.....another thing a bad coolant temp sensor can cause.

[Thesubielover]

bump bump

hells yeah, shes running great now, no cel in sight!

Coolant temperature sensor was the culprit.

I'm glad she went to a new home, and to someone I know! What are your plans for her? I couldnt be happier with my new baby. Glad everything worked out the way it did. Sad to0 see her go, but oh so happy for being in another one!

[Thesubielover]

I would nor wouold a shop have known to check the coolant sensor.

[mike-tracy]

He replaced the fuel pump too.

[Someperson]

God damn temp sensor seems to be more trouble than all the other parts on this car combined lol

[Alphius]

If you had kept it and brought it up here we would have noticed that.

Good fix randomiam!

[randomiam]

Well, I'm not really sure that it explains the massive amount of codes but it definitely resolved the lack of power when car warmed up vs cold, basically not sending the proper signal to the ecu to change fueling so it would run rich and flood out

[chrisshara]

I would never look to the coolant temp sensor to fix codes that don't have to do with the coolant temp sensor. Most of the time when a coolant temp sensor is the issue, there is no codes. But when a car does have a bad coolant temp sensor, usually the engine has a hard time starting when the engine is cold because the temp sensor is not telling the ECU that the engine is cold and to include the "fuel enrichment" needed to get a cold engine running smoothly. SO, what I'm saying is that, typically, when a temp sensor goes bad, the common scenario is a lean condition when the engine is cold. ...This is a very unusual situation since the temp sensor failed in a way that it was causing a rich condition. The temp sensor was holding the ECU in open loop. A higher end scan tool would have provided the diagnostic requests or engine operating values / characteristics so that the tech could physically see that the temperature sensor was open, while the engine was warm. It's easy to lose sight of the temp sensor as being a potential cause of an issue like this, especially when it's not a common part that fails. And I've never seen a coolant temp sensor get stuck open. I've only seen them get stuck in closed loop.

[Alphius]

All but one of the ones I've replaced have been stuck full cold.
Really the resistor can fail in two ways, open or shorted. I don't think one type of failure is any more common than the other.