legacycentral bbs

Specific to the center diff in the 5mt as far as I know. However it will still slip given enough torque, and that's really bad.

Slightly unrelated, but any advice on bleeding the slave? I replaced the flex hose with a SS line from the hard line to the slave. When I hook everything up, I can't get any fluid moving through the line. It seems to only be bleeding the slave cylinder. Even hooked a vacuum pump up and it just sucked all the fluid out of the slave and then nothing. Should I put the flex hose back on and try it?

The service procedure is to take the slave off and place it in a clamp. The bleed screw is below the piston so any bubbles at the end won't make it out.

jamal wrote:The service procedure is to take the slave off and place it in a clamp. The bleed screw is below the piston so any bubbles at the end won't make it out.

Ya I have been pulling the slave and hooking it up to a c clamp, my problem is that I can't get fluid started in the lines from the master cylinder. Pump the pedal, open bleeder, no pressure comes through. No fluid level drop in the master. If I unhook the line from the slave and pump the pedal, you can hear the master cylinder pushing then sucking kind of like raspy breathing.

Oh, you will probably need to bench bleed the MC then. unscrew the hard line, shove a silicone tube into the port and run it back into the reservoir, pump pedal repeatedly.

Found the system to be leaking where the line bolts into the slave. I lost the washer that was on there so I used one that I had that was slightly larger so tomorrow I will pick up some new washers and hope that is the only issue.

After further thought thought, it was working just fine before I pulled the motor out so I'm not sure why it stopped working all of the sudden.

That leak may just be in an area that is keeping the MC from pushing fluid to the slave. I've never bench bled any of the MC's I've put in, clutch & brake, and it's fine once you get things started. If you have a hand held vacuum pump that may help to get the MC started.

As you suggested, get the washer replaced and then see if you can bleed it.

I've had to bench bleed a couple of clutch and brake MCs to get them to work. But yeah, fix the leak first. Any parts store should have a good assortment of banjo bolt washers.

Replaced the washers, hooked the system up out of the car and started to get some pressure in the master cylinder. Unhooked everything and re-installed it in the car and now I once again am getting no flow or pressure out of the master. Leak is fixed, what am I missing here?!? Bench bled the MC last night while it was out of the car. Do I need to bench bleed it again since I unhooked everything and put it back in the car? I have bled a few systems like this before and never had an issue. Once again at a loss.

Pedal adjustment was not letting the master return all the way, but I bought a new master anyway and got everything hooked up and bled properly. Waiting for daylight to go on my first test drive.

First successful drive of the swap! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOeJrEsgXEk still throwing codes 22 and 45 and fuel cutting, but I'll work on that tonight.

Fix that KS and you'll likely be good to go. BTW, you can buy new pretty cheap or get a used one w/the WHITE connector - those should be the upgraded one - turbo or NA EJ22 'til '96, IIRC.

Td

Yup....that'll do it. If the pushrod is adjusted improperly and doesn't allow the clutch MC to return all the way, the system won't bleed properly.

I agree, start with the knock sensor and see if that fixes things.

Knock sensor is from me messing up the wire during engine pull one time. Did a quick splice with wire caps, and it didn't throw the code before I pulled the motor this time, so im betting the wire is just messed up again. Code 45 remains no matter what though. I am trying to figure out the wiring for my pressure sensor to make sure I've got it right. I'll double check but I think I have it as red (12+), white (signal), and green (ground), but a lot of the things I'm reading are talking about pressure sensors with red, white, and BLACK wires, where white is 12+, red is ground, and black is signal. Does that mean I need to do white for power, red for ground, and green for signal???

Got it figured out! I had it wired up like the pressure sensors with the black wire (red for ground, white for power, black for signal) but since I have the green wire I tried it with red being power, white being signal, and green being ground, and the problem disappeared! Still getting some sputtering and hesitation under boost, but I found some cracked intake/vacuum/boost hoses. Did a quick electrical tape patch on all the ones I could see and it majorly improved. Going to replace the whole intake, vacuum, and pcv systems next week and see if that completely takes care of it.