legacycentral bbs

I'm not a huge fan of the k&N pod style intake setup since it typically draws air from the engine bay and can sometimes have an adverse affect on the MAF sensor.

I found this but not too happy bout the price haha, i guess you get what your paying for though being spt
http://cosprings.craigslist.org/pts/3512516439.html

anyway, ill figure that out when i get the funds lol, first thing is motor mounts, valve guide seals, and comp & leakdown test! big problems first lol

Josh is right as well, the coffee cup mod will kill the two birds with one stone, I've seen setups with that or short ram intakes that do just fine though I've personally always like sri's. I'm off tomorrow as well if u need help with the testing

well im going up to littleton to get that turbo, im leaving at 10:45-11ish if you wanna come. i got work 3-7 tomorrow so i dont have much time to do much. as for the coffee cup, im just worried i wont make it correctly

It's very very easy to make! You can come over when we both got the day off and I can help you make it, DIY threads are lifesavers I def might be down to cruise up there with you if ya need some company

If you wanna come, thad be cool. Yea ive got every weekend off so maybe we can try that coffee cup thing if your up to it, if not, ill give it a whack myself lol i need to make a list of everything i gotta do to it before i forget

I've seen your car before I believe. Do you have a girlfriend that uses it sometimes to go to work at O'Rieley's or however the hell you spell it lol by a Home Depot in Monument?

DD50 wrote:I've seen your car before I believe. Do you have a girlfriend that uses it sometimes to go to work at O'Rieley's or however the hell you spell it lol by a Home Depot in Monument?

Is she cute? then yes. haha nah dude, i live in the springs, go to uccs and sadly, no girlfriend, spend too much time under the hood if you know what i mean... Alex and I are thinking bout getting a group together to go for a legacy/subie drive here once we get our cars working right, you can join if you want!

92ColoradoTurbo wrote:

DD50 wrote:I've seen your car before I believe. Do you have a girlfriend that uses it sometimes to go to work at O'Rieley's or however the hell you spell it lol by a Home Depot in Monument?

Is she cute? then yes. haha nah dude, i live in the springs, go to uccs and sadly, no girlfriend, spend too much time under the hood if you know what i mean... Alex and I are thinking bout getting a group together to go for a legacy/subie drive here once we get our cars working right, you can join if you want!

lol neither do I so its all good. lol Mine might be the only NA in the group though. lol won't be as fast but it'll hold its own. I'm down to join. Thanks for the offer. I'd be glad to help with your car if you need the help by the way

We've gotten groups together before its not hard to organize on the community thread, as soon as I get my baby back ill start up a thread to set a date and place

DD50 wrote: lol Mine might be the only NA in the group though. lol won't be as fast but it'll hold its own.

Hey, it'd be interesting to see who'd win. Your NA or my turbo'd 3cyl lol
Hopefully the school work stays to a minimum cause i wanna do the valve guide seals and the coffee cup mod maybe this weekend! (hearing the intake with the hose disconnected from the TB was gorgeous sounding even though it was giving my engine a rough time, hopefully the mod brings out that sound!)
Alex, that $120 3" cobb catback on craigs is gone
Hopefully a guy on awdpirates hits me up soon with those sti engine mounts, i hate having my engine shake

Theres exhaust for sale everywhere on rs25 and awdpirates

yea im looking, they're addictive lol not good for my calc hw...
there's this one...
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/3556852512.html
but idk, gotta get my motor mounts fixed first lol
and for the y-pipes, should i just put a "WTB: 07 wrx tmic y-pipes" on pirates?

Legacy777 wrote:If you have spark, the next thing you should do is a compression test on all four cylinders. If cylinder 1 is down on compression, you should do a leak down test to determine where the issue is. Exhaust valve, intake valve or piston..

So if i do the leakdown and I hear air coming out of my exhaust, thats a bad exhaust valve? If i hear air coming out of the oil tube (where you put oil in), then its a bad piston ring? but where do i listen for to hear for the intake valves? throttle body? and ive heard something about the air coming back into the coolant resevoir and making bubbles... whats with that?
If its bad piston rings, is that the worst that it could be? would that involve boreing or re-sheathing the cylinder walls i think its called?
In other words, would it be worth it to fix the engine if it had to get a new cylinder head/engine block? (idk what its called... its number one on this diagram http://heubergersubaruparts.com/parts/1 ... am=E732055 )
Sorry for my lack of knowledge of the engine parts, i've never gone this deep into fixing a car

Yes, if you hear air coming out of the exhaust, that typically indicates a leaking exhaust valve. If you hear air coming from the oil filler tube, that can indicate worn piston rings. You sill likely hear air coming out the throttle body or idle air control valve, and this would indicate leaking intake valves.

You would have to have a pretty bad headgasket issue if you were getting air back through the cooling system, but it's possible. When doing the leak down test, you typically want to be at TDC of the compression stroke so both sets of valves are closed.

Yeah, if the rings are worn, then the block would need to be rebuilt. This would involve boring the cylinder slightly larger and putting in over size pistons in (.020" & .040" are typical). If the valves are leaking, you'd just need to pull the head to have a valve job done. The concern I'd have is making sure that the mating surface on the deck and head are good and flat. I ran across this issue with my first rebuild. I ended up rebuilding the motor again due to a head gasket issue.

Legacy777 wrote:Yeah, if the rings are worn, then the block would need to be rebuilt. This would involve boring the cylinder slightly larger and putting in over size pistons in (.020" & .040" are typical).

If this is the case, what would be cheapest? engine rebuild for the block, new engine, or could i get a good block with good pistons from another ej22t and swap em? or should i just go full rebuild and not risk any mistakes? im guessing when it gets to this point, skimping on money isnt a good idea, you'll get what you pay for, huh?

Very true indeed

Cheapest route would be to find a used engine to swap in. Unfortunately, you may not know the condition, but that will likely be the cheapest and less time intensive option.

s&j engines in spokane washington did my rebuild of my 22t

ok so i did a compression test and...
Cyl #1: 0
Cyl #2: ~110
Cyl #3: ~105
Cyl #4: ~110
Leak Down Test:
So i then manually cranked the engine to cylinder #1 piston was TDC. I did this by sticking a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole and felt the piston go down (in) and the come up (out) until the screwdriver stopped moving, thats where i left it cause that would be TDC, right?
I then hooked up shop air and shot air through the spark plug hole, listening to where the air was coming out.
None through the throttle body.
None through the coolant reservoir.
None through the oil fill tube.
But you could definitely hear air coming out of the exhaust pipe!
My dad isn't too convinced though cause when i pulled the cyl 1 spark plug, there was oil all around it (400-500 miles after brand new install of these plugs). But I also have that oil leak thats dripping on cly 1 and 3 side (passenger) and i have gotten my valve cover gasket to replace this weekend.
My question is, could there be oil getting on cyl 1 spark plug because of that bad gasket? or even a bad valve guide seal?
Another question, do i have to pull the engine out to get my head off to see if i have a burnt exhaust valve? would a valve job at a machine shop replace those valve seals too?
what do you guys think?
(thanks for all the replies, really helpful!)

In my opinion, definitely sounds like a bad exhaust valve. It's possible the oil is leaking into the intake somewhere, and it's just burning off in the other cylinders. It would build up on the #1 spark plug because there is no explosion to clear it off. I would go ahead and pull both heads and have them both machined. Take them to Tony at AP Cylinder Heads in Arvada, he does awesome work for super cheap. You can get a full gasket kit and it will have the valve stem seals that you can have him install when he re-assembles. The kit would also take care of any likely oil leak spots (valve covers, cam seals, etc). Make sure to get all vacuum/boost hoses inspected/replaced while you're at it. I've found them to be the most common source of running poorly. Pulling the heads with the engine in the car is fairly simple if you remove the intake manifold. You don't even have to remove the valve covers. Just make sure you have the service procedure so you know the sequence to loosen/tighten the bolts. Good luck and let me know if you guys are going to cruise some time. I am finally starting to get my swap dialed in.

So i dont have to pull the engine out to get my heads off? Where would i get the service procedure? And yea, I was gunna start replacing a lot of the hoses while the blocks are off being rebuilt cause they're old and stiff and brittle
Do you know a rough estimate of how much he'd charge for all of what you said? If it's cheap enough, might try and get the thing apart today-sunday haha
And yea, I'm totally down for a meet once I get this thing going right!

Correct you can leave the engine in the car. Just buy a service manual from one of the local parts stores. That way you've got all the procedures you need for the process (especially timing). When I brought him my EJ22 n/a heads he did essentially a full rebuild (heat tank, resurface, grind valves, install valve stem seals, etc etc) for $250. The most I've ever spent through him was $450 for some acura legend heads with burnt valves.

tsbpenguin wrote:When I brought him my EJ22 n/a heads he did essentially a full rebuild (heat tank, resurface, grind valves, install valve stem seals, etc etc) for $250.

yes! hopefully it only be like $400 tops, this is great news! thanks so much! hopefully when i pull everything apart, it IS burnt exhaust valves haha.
Doing coffee cup mod, valve cover gaskets and pink subie emblem tommorow! maybe boost gauge too definately gunna contact Tony though, wanna get this fixed asap!
I'll keep yall posted

You may have an injector problem causing your miss.