Spencer's Legacy Turbo *New Pics Page 17*

[smh0101]

UPDATE:

Since I made it back to PA I've been touching up a few things.

Completely re-did my stereo, same headunit and speakers but put in a different amp and subwoofer.
(Went with a 5-channel Alpine MRX Amp, sound quality is so much better and clearer. Subwoofer is a single 10" Pioneer Champion Series)

Also threw back on my RS-RA rear garnish and I have another set of fog lights to throw on. Swapping the len's on my JDM headlights with EDM ones. As soon as I'm finished those will be back on the car.

Took some pics the other night. Here they are.

[Legacy777]

Is that the original miles on the car?

[smh0101]

Yep, the shell at least. None of its really anything original other than the body.

[smh0101]

I just realized my cruise button doesnt light up...... Thankfully I have like 5 spare switches lol

[mike-tracy]

They do sell the bulbs at radioshack, if you didnt have spares. 272-1092 is the p/n for a 2 pack.

[kimokalihi]

Mines worked but I deleted my cruise.

[smh0101]

Fixed the idle issues and re-did a bunch of the PCV lines.

ej20g ECU on its way complete with a patch harness. (Soon to be rob tuned).

Heading to Philly tomorrow to pick up a complete new front end (Hood, fenders, grill, bumper cover).

[smh0101]

ANNNNNND...





































I spun a bearing. Rod knock. Installed 440 cc injectors along with my ej20g ecu. Fired it up and had a miss on cylinder number 3. Pulled the injector plug off while it was running, no change, must be a bad injector. Replaced said injector with another 440... Annnnnd started with a rod knock. My guess is the bad injector was stuck OPEN not closed like I thought.

#reapingwhatIsowfornotgettingthemcleanedandflowtestedfirst

[smh0101]

Bought and ej257 shortblock with a spun rod bearing.

Working on tearing it down to see if I need to replace the crank or if I can have it machined and use oversized bearings.

Not set on rods and pistons yet.

I want this to be the last shortblock I build. I'm going to do as much new as possible (within reason). Do you guys think there is any reason to go with a new crank over machining the one I have?



As far as pistons and rods go. I was set on Eagles and Wiseco's but I've been doing a lot of research on Nasioc. I think I may actually go with JE Pistons as they seem to be used consistently in build with 500+ hp builds.

As far as rods are concerned... Do you guys think that I-beams are worth the extra cost over H-Beams? Thinking I may try and wait out a deal for a set of Manley Turbo tuff rods.

Going to be using a set of re-done ej25d heads, as I've used before. Sticking with my ej20g manifold and vf28 for now.

[PhyrraM]

Power goal first, then work backwards. That will tell you exactly what components you need and where you can save a few bucks.

Your power goals will also play a part in choosing clearances. For a motor with the exact same hardware, 300HP can be built with virtually OEM clearances and OEM longevity. 500HP requires larger clearances and that shortens engine usable engine life. 400HP would be somewhere in the middle for both.

[smh0101]

350-400whp ideally.

[PhyrraM]

350-400whp ideally.

I'll go with 350HP for now. So that means stock block and crank (reground OK), any quality forged pistons, any quality rod upgrade, MLS type head gaskets, minor head porting (on EJ20g heads, EJ20K heads might be OK), slightly bigger than TD05-16G turbo, 550 injectors, slightly larger than stock clearances on bearings, slight oil pump bump from stock (AVCS oil pump not needed). Not sure if you will need a cam upgrade or not.

As you get closer to 400HP open up the clearances another few 10ths, go even bigger on the turbo and injectors, get 'real world' numbers/reviews on the rods and pistons you target, most likely need cams for sure, and a custom tune will be required.

[smh0101]

Here's the plan...

Forged pistons and rods
25d heads with 20k cams
I'm looking at a twin scroll td05-18g that blouch makes
Port and polished heads

I would like to run a rob 550 tune for awhile until I can afford a standalone but I doubt that's a good idea with a 2.5L, I believe that tune is setup for a 2.0L.

Part of me says I would be fine because the ecu will compensate for higher airflow with the MAF... But part of me thinks for some reason that is not correct.

[cj91legss]

As you probably know, I would be concerned about AFRs. You have a wideband?

[smh0101]

Not yet. That's going to be going in at the same time as the engine

[mike-tracy]

Looks like the LGT 17's are the way to go on a white post facelift. Hmm...

[smh0101]

Haha, yea I think mine was one of the first to have them on here that I had seen but they seem to have gained quite a bit of popularity on white legacy's.


Picking up a set of rebuild ej25d heads on Friday.


Now to find a good set of 20k cams.

[robertpaige]

In that pic above, your temp is pretty low. Is that normal operating temp?

[smh0101]

No... This was only a few blocks from my house. Normal is right in the middle.

[smh0101]

So my heads are still fine. So is my intake manifold.

I'm working on getting things together for the new build but I really would like to have the car this summer. This build is going to take me at least until Aug/Sept to really get it together. I have some of the parts already but I would really like to do valves and valvesprings and all on the heads.

What do you guys think of me finding an ej20g shortblock in while I build the engine the right way?

[cj91legss]

Honestly it's a smart idea. It'll get you on the road quicker and you can find a 2.0 on nasioc for around 200-300. throw your heads on it and drive the shit out of it for another 100k.

[smh0101]

If I can find one lol I can't seem to find a single one that's a working shortblock,

[cj91legss]

You can also grab an n/a block and throw some turbo pistons in it.

[smh0101]

That's where I'm at right now. I could pull the block out and have the crank machined and replace that rod but it's be quicker just to throw in a 2.0

[BiNiaRiS]

last time i talked to rob about a robtune on my car this is what he said:

So this is a 2.5l block, 2.5na head with Ver4 components, and custom pistons? Do know what CR you are running?

Yes the MAF is going to be your limiter and I will bet it will be @ less than 18 psi with the increased displacement, better heads and bigger turbo. I would start at 12psi work your way up while monitoring MAF voltage. I assume you are running the green label MAF correct?

For the injectors I only support the 525 yellow STI injectors. I don't have a tune for anything larger (since the MAF is the first bottleneck).

In addition to that you will need to find a solution for the ignition conversion, either my 4to2 converter or the dual igniter method.

So in short my "550" tune with the matching components will run you up to the limits of the MAF and is good for 340 crank HP on the 2.0l. Now, with your hybrid setup, I am not exactly sure how the results will look or where you will run out of headroom.