Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

[xise]

The sunroof is leaking really bad, I might just seal up until spring next year...tired of ice cold water dripping on me lol.

[cj91legss]

The shock is removable from the strut itself and you grease inside the strut. Search Nasioc for something along the lines of sti strut clunking

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[kimokalihi]

The sunroof is leaking really bad, I might just seal up until spring next year...tired of ice cold water dripping on me lol.

I feel your pain. Mine is too. Piece of shit. I replaced my whole assembly and the guy who sold it to me did a shitty job resealing it. I cleaned the drains and it still leaks. Sick and tired of it. I'm parking it til spring. Save over $100 a month on insurance too. I thought about sealing the roof but I'm qorried about it not coming off next year and damaging my paint.

[sqc151]

The shock is removable from the strut itself and you grease inside the strut. Search Nasioc for something along the lines of sti strut clunking

When I had my sti, the clunking was from the top hats. Replaced with group n... problem solved.

Not saying ur info isn't helpful, just chiming in.

[cj91legss]

Yeah the tophats clung too sometime. Too bad too. US Sti stuff less than 10 years old and we can still go to the wrecking yard and get a good legacy front tophats with great bearings and still have a solid feel

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[xise]

I have brand new tophats in the rear so I that isn't it, I really don't think the struts are to blame...they still look new, like someone had bought an STi in Japan and immediately changed the suspension parts. The paint dabs aren't even faded, there aren't any marks from rocks or scratches....the only thing that COULD cause them to clunk prematurely is if the oil inside weeped past the seals, but there is no evidence of that...If you had a good look at the bushings on my rear x member you wouldn't be blaming the struts lol. There is literally "C" shaped rubber strips coming off when you touch it with your finger...

I also have a high pitch chirp or am assuming is coming from the oil soaked steering rack bushings or the front swaybar...

I will however be quite pissed if I change up all the rubber bits and it is still clunking...I be quite pissed!

[xise]

just figured I'd ask before spending some money here, does anyone here know for sure if a 2011 STi rear subframe would fit Sex Panther? I don't see any reason why it wouldn't they all look the same, at least as far as the mounting holes are concerned...

If anyone knows for sure it will not fit please let me know, there is a killer deal I want to jump on

[Legacy777]

No, it probably won't. The newer body style imprezas have a completely different rear suspension setup, and also likely have a different rear subframe. 07 is probably the last year they would be compatible.

[cj91legss]

That would be pretty cool if you could make it work tho...

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[xise]

i'd rather not take the chance, I want to get something that will fit fore sure so I am going to grab an 05 STi rear subframe with the solid mounts, shouldn't clunk at all after that .... it is actually less for the 05 one I found

[xise]

took a long trip up to carver MA today to Edaville and check under the car when I g home, oil all over the oil pan, and all down the crossmember, transmission pan and some on the exhaust too...WTF, so looks like the long trip blew the seal somewhere and now my oil leak is back...

You won't tell anything had happened except I smelled some oil burning, just figured it was seepage at the turbo which seemed to always happen randomly since i first swapped the motor... just another PITA job to do again...it does need motor mounts anyway, I was hoping to wait for that until it was tranny swap time but looks like it will be getting done sooner rather than later...and I was just about to splurge and buy a new turbo too Gotta get this BS straight first, nothing worse than oil dripping all over my shiny stainless manifold....

in other news I plan on setting up a few switches to try and inject some life into this boring 4EAT, an AWD 50/50 switch, a power mode switch and an switch for the ebrake/diffs. It looks like one of the coolest and easier mods, to tide me over until a 5spd can be done...I payed enough for this 4EAT might as well have some fun with it

I also wanted to use the idea no one really fully implemented, using an indicator LED or gauge wise to show the torque balance front to rear. My idea would just use whatever voltage is sent to the solenoid by the TCU, wire that to an LED bar gauge, I have a few gauge clusters so I was thinking of breaking one down and seeing if there was a place I could stick the gauge up on the cluster itself, otherwise it is kind of pointless as you would really see it while you are driving..just use some decals to indicate front/rear. It does't seem too difficult with some time, now if only there was a way to make it rear biased via a radio dial switch lol

[xise]

was just looking at some old pics, and I realized this thing has really come a long way from when I first got it, aside from a few BS things it is pretty solid...
BEFORE


AFTER


well minus the emblem that...fell off....

[Legacy777]

Just an FYI on the bar gauge for the duty solenoid. I'm not sure you'll be able to get it to work without some additional controller. The output to the duty c solenoid is a duty percent, not simply a voltage. So you would need a controller to interpret that duty percent and convert that into a predefined range and illuminate the correct LED on the bar graph.

I think it's a cool idea, but I also think it will be a little more difficult to implement than just hooking up an LED bar graph/gauge.

[xise]

I was planing on using something to get it to give off 0-12v dc, most of those bar leds are 0-12v voltage meters, I am just going to have to get something to interpret the duty cycle as a dc voltage, going to hav on a multimeter? I thought it was a potentiometer and not a hall or magnetic switch...then again I know nothing about the 4eats lol

Just wondering b/c I thought you read the voltage for duty C and allowed it to get to 37mph
and observe the voltage sweep from 0-xVolts...just assumed it was a potentiometer like the tps is..that certainly makes the torque % gauge a bit tougher to make.

[sqc151]

its not in this video, but that black mark on the bumper is from the brushing the gailrail while drifting...lol
youve definitly brought the car along way.
heres a nice vid to add to your collection.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOp6jMgty5w

[Legacy777]

I was planing on using something to get it to give off 0-12v dc, most of those bar leds are 0-12v voltage meters, I am just going to have to get something to interpret the duty cycle as a dc voltage, going to hav on a multimeter? I thought it was a potentiometer and not a hall or magnetic switch...then again I know nothing about the 4eats lol

Just wondering b/c I thought you read the voltage for duty C and allowed it to get to 37mph
and observe the voltage sweep from 0-xVolts...just assumed it was a potentiometer like the tps is..that certainly makes the torque % gauge a bit tougher to make.

You've got to have a multimeter that will read duty percent. You can't just read it like you read a voltage sweep on the TPS. It is different.

[xise]

its not in this video, but that black mark on the bumper is from the brushing the gailrail while drifting...lol
youve definitly brought the car along way.
heres a nice vid to add to your collection.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOp6jMgty5w

lol did you have to pull the ebrake to get the rear loose? It looked like you had to force it, I could see the understeer around that corner towards the end. I just couldn't understand why it wouldn't get sideways in the snow I do have a code for duty solenoid B right now, not sure if that is the problem...isn't that for the converter lock or something?

Also Mark, did you get any clunking over bumps that you remember? It has always done it as far as I know, but I never really rode around on the struts it came with so I dunno...?

I was planing on using something to get it to give off 0-12v dc, most of those bar leds are 0-12v voltage meters, I am just going to have to get something to interpret the duty cycle as a dc voltage, going to hav on a multimeter? I thought it was a potentiometer and not a hall or magnetic switch...then again I know nothing about the 4eats lol

Just wondering b/c I thought you read the voltage for duty C and allowed it to get to 37mph
and observe the voltage sweep from 0-xVolts...just assumed it was a potentiometer like the tps is..that certainly makes the torque % gauge a bit tougher to make.

You've got to have a multimeter that will read duty percent. You can't just read it like you read a voltage sweep on the TPS. It is different.

hmm this is going to be a pain I can tell, I need to get some kind of filter to convert a duty cylce % into a voltage reading...I am sure there is something that will do this, but it needs to fit on a small circuit board so I can cram it under the dash or somewhere out of sight...I have plenty of time to think it over though lol.

I have plenty of issues to take car of beforehand, like duty solenoid B code and this fluid leak, that smells like oil but the disptick shows no oil loss...I do have a coolant leak somewhere and a PS fluid leak, but it smells like engine oil when it hits the manifold and burns....I am at a loss, I am off school right now so I can't get it on a lift and take a good look right now

[sqc151]

Yea, the car doesn't have enough power and being auto didn't help. So a quick pull of the ebrake and she came around. The.understeer is from hitting the gas on lose gravel thru that turn. I don't have vids but u can definitly dance the rear around if u gas and turn at the correct time.

[xise]

my ebrake is non functional right now, don't get me wrong I can get the ass end to come around, but I need to be going pretty fast and brake really hard and then practically floor it once the suspension is loaded...seems like a lot of work especially since the tires are not that great lol but it sounds like the car is going to fall apart when I really romp it around a corner like that lol...so I have been "taking it easy"

[xise]

Ordered my starwheel ajusters finally, crossmember came in along with a few other goodies that were baldy needed.

the cat is inspecting it for any bent or dented areas...this apparently requires him to lick it a few times...you know, just to be sure....lol

steering rack bushings, tie rod ends and a licence plate holder, I got pulled over for having the plate in the window, and the mounting plastic sqaures fell out of the bumper so I needed it. It came with this jdm driver thing...not sure what exactly it means.....if anyone knows feel free to chime in.

Aside from all the issues that I need to fix my wife loves the car, she is still afraid to really get on it though....lol

[kimokalihi]

Does that sticker indicate whether you're an experienced driver or learning?

[xise]

I think it has something to do with that..I know there is a green one that means beginner...

[sqc151]

The orange and yellow “Fukushi” mark, or “Koriesha” mark, is a symbol for senior citizen drivers.

[xise]

lol good to know

[Legacy777]

Yeah, I wouldn't recommend putting that sticker on