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How are you guys driving your car getting these MPG numbers? Mostly conservative? We had a local cruise today and it was a lot of spirited driving and I got crap gas mileage, like a 100 miles for a half tank.

Also, anyone know if not having the neutral switch hooked up to the ecu will effect anything with it.

93Leg-c wrote:Chris, if I'm not mistaken, with the 205/55 16 tires, you are actually going faster than what your speedometer reads.

+1

And the stock tire size is 195/60R-15 which is 2.76% -slower- then 205/55R-16 (and about the same as my 225/50R-16)...FWIW.

Here's a chart from 1010tires.com:


195/60R-16_________________________205/55R-16________________________225/50R-16


Note: If you drive speed limit +5 like me, you're actually closer to a TICKET.

BoostedSubie wrote:How are you guys driving your car getting this MPG numbers? Mostly conservative?

Yes...as I noted, in my case it was a 'stay out of boost' drive. The tank before was 'boostful' and <20mpg. My point was that the Rob Tuned EJ20G ECU does improve upon the stock ECU's MPG...if your self-control allows it.


There's no way you'll get upper 20's MPG if you're boost gauge spends much time above 0.
Td

With my 205 55 16 and 4.11 at 41mph on my cluster, the electronic speed poles on the side of the road say im doing 40. When I had 205 45 17 I would be at 43 on my cluster and be doing 40 based off the speed poles on the side of the road. That was with 3.90 gears.

I honestly cant remember if my cluster is n/a or turbo, is there really a difference in the gearing in the cluster?

Im not rob tuned, that was just to add some info

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there shouldn't be because the cluster picks it up magneticly from the cable that goes to the trans.

Thats what I was thinking.

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Yeah, as my car is still fresh to me, i tend to check that my turbo is still there quite often, haha. The Spokane Subaru Club had a cruise today and I couldn't resist showing off to all the newer STIs, WRXs, BRZs. I have had the boost turned down to 10lbs recently because my wideband O2 was damaged when my driveline u-joints broke and I was still faster than the "Stage II" tuned WRXs. It was a fun day.

For CJ and Free5tyle, what trans are you guys using?

BoostedSubie wrote:...I was still faster than the "Stage II" tuned WRXs. It was a fun day.

Cool! I know you've put a lot work into your car. Good to hear you're finally getting to enjoy it.

TD

Yea I thought so too but remember I not only have a larger tire I also have smaller gearing. ...The gearing change from 3.90 to 4.111 seems to outweigh the tire size difference lol

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^^OK, that makes more sense now.

wtdash wrote:For CJ and Free5tyle, what trans are you guys using?

I have N/A 4.11 gears in my SS 5MT Case

BoostedSubie wrote:Also, anyone know if not having the neutral switch hooked up to the ecu will effect anything with it.

Is it throwing a CEL?

It shouldn't really affect anything on a MT, but I'm not sure if the ECU will do anything other then throw the code.

Lol...I cant stay out of boost enough to push my mpg up above 20

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Glad to see others enjoying the Robtune - my setup is still going strong and I love it every chance I get to drive it.

No, it hasn't thrown a code but it bothers me so I'm probably going to hook it up. Today, I did a check on the codes even though there wasn't a CEL, I had three codes stored, 23-Airflow sensor, 24-Air control valve, and 45-Atmospheric sensor. The atmospheric sensor has shown up previously but it never brought the CEL on, I swapped in a different MAP/Pressure Exchange solenoid anyway, but it didn't change anything. I checked all the wiring and it is fine, all the hoses look good but they are so small, it would be hard to spot a hole. I haven't done Read memory mode yet but I need to.

BoostedSubie wrote:I checked all the wiring and it is fine, all the hoses look good but they are so small, it would be hard to spot a hole. .

No offense (since you rewired your entire Impreza harness), but you moved the the MAP sensor per the EJ20G instructions, correct?

...remove pin 5 on B48 and join it with pin 21 on B48 @ the ECU connector

TD

None taken. Yeah, I wired the Map the same as the EJ20g pinout, the ground goes to B48.21-"sensor ground" with the coolant temp sensor ground. Also, for the map sensor, I used an uncut full length of wiring from a turbo Legacy harness that I stripped down. But, the Pressure exchange harness is from the Impreza harness so there could very well be a problem there somewhere, I'll have to strip the loom and trace the wire to find any issues.

Installed my 550 rob tune yesterday. Fired right up the first time. Was pretty straight forward thanks to the PnP converter and simple wiring. By far the hardest part was getting the pins out of the connector without ruining it, but managed after some fidling. The difference from before and after is just mind blowing. It is definitely quicker and pulls through the whole power band. But im more impressed with the drivability improvements pretty much everywhere through the power band, idle, coasting and engine braking. Before there was lots of backfiring and random misfires, which sounded badass on decel but i knew was not doing me any favors.

Thanks Rob for all of R+D to make this happen. I am very happy with this setup. Definitely made driving my car fun again.

1 question though, i just got done reading all 19 pages (again) of this thread and didnt find my answer and it doesnt seem like any one else has mentioned it before. I know the CEL is now a warning light for knock and i was expecting to see it more then before, as its been years since iv seen that light come on but its on all of the time now. And not on constantly as if displaying a code but rather "fluttering"? Not flashing like it would when i would read a code but spazing out and veries in intensity from very dim to bright. I dont really know how else to describe it. The car drives great for the last 50 miles iv put on it, so is this normal? I would figure someone would have mentioned it by now if it wasnt.

If I can stop spending money on my LSS in other places and soon to be taking on a daily driver WRX wagon rebuild project, I might actually get my JDM ECU sent off to Rob to be chipped. Having this thread light up with posts lately makes me want to get this swap done sooner than later!!! Looks like it will be closer to Spring 2014 at this point.

TurnNburn wrote:
1 question though, i just got done reading all 19 pages (again) of this thread and didnt find my answer and it doesnt seem like any one else has mentioned it before. I know the CEL is now a warning light for knock and i was expecting to see it more then before, as its been years since iv seen that light come on but its on all of the time now. And not on constantly as if displaying a code but rather "fluttering"? Not flashing like it would when i would read a code but spazing out and veries in intensity from very dim to bright. I dont really know how else to describe it. The car drives great for the last 50 miles iv put on it, so is this normal? I would figure someone would have mentioned it by now if it wasnt.

Here's what Rob told me about the CEL light:

Yes normal to see flickers here and there as the ECU adjusts the learned knock behavior. It is a concern if it is a sustained flicker (more than 2-3 at once) and if it happens every time under the same conditions.

After reading that, how would you describe yours?


Mine did flicker for the first 20-40 miles and then it settled down, to maybe once in awhile....don't recall when I last saw it.

TD

The flicker seems to be dimmer then it was initially, but it is never off for any length of time. It doesnt seem to behave any differently under differant load conditions ie. boost, idle, coast. Consistanly the same all of the time.i will just drive it some more and see what happens. Just glad someone else has experienced this as well.

TurnNburn wrote:The flicker seems to be dimmer then it was initially, but it is never off for any length of time. It doesnt seem to behave any differently under differant load conditions ie. boost, idle, coast. Consistanly the same all of the time.i will just drive it some more and see what happens. Just glad someone else has experienced this as well.

Have you checked for codes - in case any are stored?

The light shouldn't be on all the time. It should go out completely and only flicker if the ECU detects knock.

And I'd not drive it hard 'til you get it figured out.

Also...since you have an EJ20, were you running that on the stock EJ22T ECU? Or an unchipped EJ20G ECU?

After re-reading your comment above: "Before there was lots of backfiring and random misfires", was your car stock or did you have some mods before the Rob Tune?

Td

Mine did the same thing when I first got it going and Kimo told me to check the codes, and that's what it was. I had a code for the TPS, once I fixed it, it didn't flicker anymore. I haven't seen it flicker at all since then to ever indicate knock, except while cranking it over to start it. I thought I'd see it here and there indicating knock but it doesn't.