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It ran for less then a 1000 miles on the stock ej22t ecu since it seemed like many people were doing it without issue. The ej20 came with 550's (yes, usdm 2005 sti and not jdm) already installed so my issue was fueling and my wideband confirmed an inability to control the injectors as accurately as it was when stock (EJ22T). Go figure. Drove fine out of boost, but in boost it was like 10.5:1 so it would just rich backfire until the turbo was able to catch up to the fuel. Or so it would seem thats what was happening to me.

After putting another 50 miles on it, the light is just barely on when driving normally and in boost. This morning i thought it was completely out for like 5 seconds, but at idle it brightens back up. I didnt think of checking for codes, just assumed that since it didnt have codes before and this ecu has been unplugged for a long time it wouldnt have anything stored. Maybe the new ecu is more sensitive to a problem i already had that the old ecu didnt pick up? Just thinking out loud. Maybe that is my problem I will check when i get home and report back my findings.

Definitely check the ECU for codes, both stored codes and active codes.

Other thing, depending on what you find with the codes, the knock sensor may be bad/worn. Does it have a gray or white connector?

TurnNburn wrote: 1 question though, i just got done reading all 19 pages (again) of this thread and didnt find my answer and it doesnt seem like any one else has mentioned it before. I know the CEL is now a warning light for knock and i was expecting to see it more then before, as its been years since iv seen that light come on but its on all of the time now. And not on constantly as if displaying a code but rather "fluttering"? Not flashing like it would when i would read a code but spazing out and veries in intensity from very dim to bright. I dont really know how else to describe it. The car drives great for the last 50 miles iv put on it, so is this normal? I would figure someone would have mentioned it by now if it wasnt.

Constant high speed flashing (almost fast enough to just look dim) is in fact a real CEL. It is an "artifact" (aka bug) in my knock light code.

-Rob

Thanks Rob! Now I know too. Will be relevant in the near future im sure.

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Aaaaaand I have received the final piece for my first RobTune setup -- Rob's ignition converter!

BEHOLD:


I ripped the envelope open all excited and pulled the converter out and held it high. My fiancee said something like "Yay, you got plastic and wires!" I felt similarly, only without the sarcasm.

JUST IN TIME to include in the upcoming engine rebuild or swap, whichever ends up being the decision... VF36 + RobTune are getting installed during assembly for very little additional effort.

Then I just gotta baby it until I work out a FMIC and install a Walbro fuel pump. Then it's time for some fun!!!


Thanks Rob!!!

Heh heh, I like your enthusiasm! Congrats on getting the RobTune!

Rob (or anybody else)

I am in need of an EJ20G ECU unRobTuned for my swap so I can get it all running well before I add the tune. Picking up the motor this weekend. Thanks? Also what are EJ22T ECUs going for these days?

RckyMtnLegacy wrote:Rob (or anybody else)

I am in need of an EJ20G ECU unRobTuned for my swap so I can get it all running well before I add the tune. Picking up the motor this weekend. Thanks? Also what are EJ22T ECUs going for these days?

Hi, I'd post this in the Parts Shed to get more 'eyes' on it. You can find them on NASIOC or http://www.ebay.co.uk/, too. On Ebay contact the Seller to get a shipping quote and to ensure they'll ship to the US before bidding/buying the ECU.
GL, TD

Thanks. I did the shed awhile back but zero replies. I'll try again.

ive bought 2 ecus off ebay

Good to know. What part numbers am I looking for?

Page 3 of this thread.

On it thanks.

I'm having issues, but I have Dyno Results here :

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=52750

Any Help would be appreciated, Thanks.

Sorry i havent had a chance to reply sooner. I have had to move since my last post (bigger garage;) ) and im sure we all know how much of a pain in the ass moving can be. Still dont have internet yet. I have since pulled the codes and the only one that is present is the code 45... i did the hard wire with pins 5 and 21 when i did the install so i dont know why that should be an issue at all. Its been staying off on cold mornings, once it was off for a whole day, but it still persists. Am i missing something here?

Interesting dyno result CFK. Hopefully you get that sucker dialed in and we can see what it can really do! I have a buddy whos silicone intake was actually collapsing because the turbo was sucking on the take side so hard. 16-G as well. And since he mentioned that to me i suspect mine might be doing the same thing. IDK. Just food for thought.

I was wondering, what was the verdict on using the stock BCS with the robtune? I thought I remember reading somewhere that it would work, but I can't seem to find that post anymore. I have an AEM boost controller, but I kinda prefer letting the ECU handle things wherever possible.

IronMonkeyL255 wrote:I was wondering, what was the verdict on using the stock BCS with the robtune? I thought I remember reading somewhere that it would work, but I can't seem to find that post anymore. I have an AEM boost controller, but I kinda prefer letting the ECU handle things wherever possible.

Per Rob, "I always recommend a cheap manual boost controller, or any expensive EBC to manage boost." But not the stock Boost Control Solenoid (BCS).

Yes, the stock EJ22T BCS will work w/the EJ20G ECU, if you prefer. Just not what Rob recommends.

Edit1: From the 'robtune.com >>General' site under
What do I need to do prior to the tune?

You will need an aftermarket boost controller. The reason for this is that the only way to setup the ECU boost control maps is to spend a lot of time on that specific car. Any variation in mods will cause boost control issues (slow response, spiking, overshoot, etc). I recommend a good ball and spring type MBC, or any of the popular EBC.

Edit2: I ran the stock BCS my previous Rob Tuned '90 Legacy I'd turbo-swapped. It worked OK, but the MBC was more fun. The only issue I noticed was that w/the MBC and my 4EAT trans. The car could be a 'handful' if driving in slippery conditions and it downshifted while climbing a hill - the MBC allows more instant boost and thus power to cause the car to want to get sideways. The stock BCS was more gradual.

TD

That may be what I remember reading. I had seen Rob's post, but remembered someone mentioning it could be used. This makes perfect sense now.

Sent from my mind using telepathy

On my drive home i attempted to electronically reset the ecu using the procedure found at the bottom of post number 3, here http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=47252 After driving gently for 10 miles the light started flashing code 45 (which is flashes much faster when the car is running). Which shouldnt be happening right? i havent read this anywhere, but are people unplugging the pressure sensor after re wiring?

TurnNburn wrote:i havent read this anywhere, but are people unplugging the pressure sensor after re wiring?

No....if it was not causing a code before the Rob Tuned ECU install, then there's likely something amiss where it's tapped into the ECU harness connector wiring.

Per Rob (or others on here) for the CODE 45 - MAP sensor:

The solution is to remove pin 5 on B48 and join it with pin 21 on B48 @ the ECU connector

ok just checking. I did join those wires together during the swap. Thats why im so confused to see that code. Even bought a soldering gun especially for this job. This code was not a problem pre swap but i suppose i might have bumped something loose when i was jamming the ecu back up in its hidey hole. Will bring it back down and find out for sure.

So today I was playing with my launch control feature and my AFR pegged at 18 on my gauge....which I don't think it should do and don't remember it doing before....anyone have any ideas?

thanks.

- Logan

logan9691 wrote:So today I was playing with my launch control feature and my AFR pegged at 18 on my gauge..?

thanks.

- Logan

Please provide specifics...'playing w/LC' (don't need LC defined, but exactly what you were doing.)

Td

I have an innovate wide band system. I was just sitting in my drive way and brought it up to about 5 lbs and the need was pegged at 18, then went out to a back road and did it again and did a launch, pegged at 18 again, but then drops to 11 when I actually start moving (I think, hard to focus on gauge and drive at the same time).

^Gotcha.

I'll have to defer to Rob on this. Have you emailed him yet?