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93forestpearl wrote:That Rustoleum Rust Tough Semi-flat is hawt.

That it is

Anything I fab up gets painted with that stuff.

This is an extremely cool thread. Keep up the excellent work!

Sorry about hte lack of updates. Between Christmas, the MNSubaru ice racing weekend up in Orr, and my lack of internet at home, posting has been a challenge.


Anyways, it runs. Fired it off last wednesday. It was at a 9.5:1 AFR at first, but got it leaned out right away. It didn't want to idle smoothly unless it was at about 800-850rpm, and I'm guessing thats the cams. If I tried to let it down to 600rpm, it would hunt around in different cells.

No leaks from the cooling system, turbo lines are all good, just a leak from my v-band. It might have to do with the flange on the downpipe is a hare smaller than off the turbo. I made a gasket for it out of a sheet of headgasket material I had laying around. Hopefully it takes care of it.

My BOV was sitting open at idle, and I'm thinking its from giving the IAC valve its own filter. I'm gonna plumb it into the intake and hopefully there'll be enough vacuum in the piping to keep it closed. I have a heavier spring for it if neccessary.


Other than that, I just need to clean up the wiring and put the car back together to drive it and start the tuning process.

Your IAC valve has it's own filter...

That might why you're having a rough time idling.

Or is this a map sensor? I'm missing something here...

Yeah, I'm running in speed density with the Link. I think its either the cams or just that I haven't done any tuning yet. Ionly pulled fuel in the one cell where I got the idle to stabilize. Once everything is back together, I'll go through all of the off boost area.

I am excited.

That is beyond insane LOL. Really nice work! Its good you know how to do your own welding....keeps the costs down. Keep up the good work!

Its running and driving =) Dan should be posting a writeup of some sort when he gets internet access.

Well, it runs. It sounds pretty nice, I think. I've got a lash adjuster that likes to go flat once and a while, so I get a tick every so often, then it goes away. Its also rich as hell right now, but I've been playing with it and have gotten most of the off-boost area in or near the 14's. I'm surprised how well the turbo comes on, although its short lived. I'm keeping it under 4-4500rpm for quite a while. I'm running off the wastegate actuator which is supposed to be 9psi, and I'm seeing 7-7.5 in the manifold, so that seems about right. It feels nice though:biggrin:

There's still alot to do though, besides the body, hehe. I need regular hood pins because the locking ones don't have enough room. I'm gonna go back and redo some hoses and routing of wires. I've got a pile of interior trim to put in yet, and I need make a bezel for the zeitronix display. Ans the list goes on.

Now for t3h g00d stuff

I like the 6mt shifter with the old accordion boot.

Congrats on getting it drivable!

Wow, I havn't visited this thread in a bit. Kinda funny, how often you watch someone start a thread about their build, but it takes months and loose intrest. Didn't happen here though did it!

Looks like a lot of work. Especially the stainless welding. Its hard, at least for me, to MIG stainless, especially if its not super thick gauge. Unfortunatelly, that angle on the turbo will be a problem. I've done it a couple times. You wanna make the downpipe as straight as possable, and the up pipe comes up at that angle anyway, your like "sheet mang" But then some old bastard comes and looks at it, and says its gonna blow a rear seal. I hate those old bastards, and how they always tell me my 20hrs was just wasted. But there always right, and I've blown up 2 turbos so far by cocking them back that far. One was a 32, and the other was a big 35. About $4K worth of design mistakes.

Looks like fun though, and its always sweet to see someone step up to the plate, and play with the big boys.

Don't call me an old bastard!

I found out because the Perrin 35 kit tilts the turbo back and it leaked pretty badly. It wasn't on the car lon enough to cook the seal though. Connecting rod shot through the block, and that was the end of that motor.

Cripes. So you guys are saying I need to redo my up/down pipes, and turbo outlet? Ouch. What is an acceptable angle? Its not like these things sit level all the time anyways. What about someone who lives in a hilly/mountainous area? I'm willing to rework it, but it won't happen for a little while. It the real seal does go, am I right in assuming the turbo is rebuildable? I would hope so. I do think it is retarded that a turbo like this could not hadle being cocked a bit. Garrett(Honeywell) has a pretty damn good engineering staff. Dammit dammit

How long do I have before it blows? Does my treatment of it(boost/revs) matter?



Oh, and you are correct about MIGing stainless. Its a pain. The puddle doesn't like to move nearly as well as mild steel.

Anyways, it runs pretty friggen good. My EGT's are a bit high, but I think its because I don't have enough timing in it. On the freeway last night, giving it 2-3 degrees dropped the EGT about 100 degrees or so. Makes sense since I started with the Subaru v7 map that came with the Link. I've only got about 400 miles on it or so. At first I got a little oil smoke on startup, but that has since dissapeared. This thing, even with the lower compression, feels stronger off boost than my old wheezed motor ever did. Or maybe its the gearing.

Both turbos I fried didnt last past break in, 1K miles or so, they did however stop smoking once I rebuilt a pipe set for one, and the other sat in the corner for a bit, then went on another car. Both turbos are still being used, and no longer smoke. Cant exactlly explain why, but that has been my experiance. I've also heard of the Perrin turbos going bad, but Ive also heard that there 35s are an old school version ditched by everyone and bought up cheap. Who really knows.

Anyway.

The Perrin 35 was no different than the other 35's I've seen. Maybe they stopped using crappy ones?

I tried to tell you Dan!

I would sit it as level as you can. Our/TurboXS's WRX/STi kit doesn't cock the turbo back at all. It sits totally level. No problems about oil leaking at all.

The lower the oil pressure in the turbo, the less stress you put on the seal, so I rekon that the lower the revs, the better you'll be.

He did put a restrictor fitting on the oil line going to the turbo, think that will help out since the EJ22T runs quite a high oil pressure normally?

The fitting in the middle is the restrictor on the turbo. I know that if these things see full oil pressure that the seals will blow in short order. Maybe I'm grabbing at straws here. On the turbos that had seals go, did they have a restrictor fitting like this?

dan I bet it wont be that hard to rework your pipes, just one or two cuts to the uppipe and 2 or 3 to the DP plus some little pie slices of bend maybe. could be done in a few hours eh?

The perrin kit didn't come with a restrictor, but we used one.

Well, ATP turbo said it is a severe angle on the turbo and I'll have oiling problems for the lifetime of it. I also may be why I get a puff of oil on startup.

I'm gonna take care of as soon as I can, being htis weekend. I've got saturday and sunday off, and a buddy said I could go with him up to his friends where he's got a TIG welder, chop saw, etc. I screwed up and sent my extra piping home with my old man today when he came up to take a load of my crap back to the cities. So, my sister is gonna pick it up tonight and mail it 2 day so I get it by saturday. We should be able to bang it out in a day.

The thing that sucks is how my actuator and bracket line up. It'd be nice if I could re-clock it just a bit to keet the outlet in a reasonably easy spot to go over the power steering lines. I may have to clock it a bunch and have the outlet pipe pointed a bit upwards, then have it come back down to mate up with the rest of the pipe.

If I could just rock it up in back I would, but my firewall clearance is only about a half inch right now. I may have to bastardize my intake for some more bend, cause I use leftover stainless for that.


I'm also open for suggestions. I do appreciate all the input though. I'm glad you guys are there with the experience to straigten me out, cause I definately don't know it all. I may be a bit stubborn in my ideas though, like a typical engineer.

I think ya need some exterior lovin too

Looks pretty cool

You should definately order an External wastegate and ditch the internal setup. It's easy to set up, and it gives you a lot more flexability. A Tial 44 gate fits with some firewall lovin. My old car has a tial 44 on a 16G now.

I'd clock the inlet so it is parallel with the ground and simply weld a bend so it goes back into the piping you already have.

Then it looks as simple as dropping the front of the turbo down. I don't see anything in the way if you do it like that.

Take some good surrounding pics so we can see more what we have to do with. With a Tig and a chopsaw, you should be able to do it in just a few hours.

If you MUST keep the internal gate, I'd still try to mount the outlet so it's flat parallel.

If your turbo had the outlet going the other way, (i.e. as it's sitting, the outlet would point away from the strut tower), you could just clock it vertically. We've done that and it works great (good enough for 505whp on a single race gas pull. It wasn't tuned on race gas, as it was deemed irresponsible. It was a stock STi motor).

Right now, my car p0nz me. Putting tabs on, due in Nov, sucked. I'm just gonna make it work. I'm moving back to the twin cities (minneapolis/st paul) and have access to the same shit. I wanna go external gate. iknow a couple SR20 guys and they say these turbos love external gates. I just can't fit it in the bill right now.



I'm gonna save the external gate for when I get DOHC phase one heads and possible a bigger compressor section section, and larger injectors. Like I said Phil, I'm leaving room for improvement. That and I know a lotta guys on here wanna know what these old heads will do. I guess I have to be that guy.



On another note, my H&R coilovers are acting up right now. At under about 25 degrees, I get a really really bad thunk. As in the strut is bottoming out at 3/4" of travel. Nothing is lose. The strut top is tight. Yesterday, when it warmed up to 28 degrees, it worked fine. But today, at 9 degrees, it thunks really bad, actually it sounds awful. I'm kinda pissed, cause these H&R's were supposed to be durable. It seems like the vales on the piston is not opening. Anyone know of anybody in the US that can rebuild these things?


Ahhh, god dammit kyle!!!

How is that header wrap working out? I'm told they catch fire on the Subaru engine, since where it's located. What's funny about that is nobody says they caught fire.

Reason wrote:How is that header wrap working out? I'm told they catch fire on the Subaru engine, since where it's located. What's funny about that is nobody says they caught fire.

We've wrapped a lot of headers, and haven't had any problems.

One guy did crash, and the header flashed and caught fire, but no damage was done.