legacycentral bbs

Yeah....that's just a standard 3.90 open rear diff.

Legacy777 wrote:Yeah....that's just a standard 3.90 open rear diff.

wtf my wheels move in the same direction when i turn them though....???

That's not the part number for a limited-slip differential.

So it's not an LSD?

Legacy777 wrote:Yeah....that's just a standard 3.90 open rear diff.

so then why do my wheels move at the same time when i turn them?
(in the saME direction...)
whatever,..

I dunno...

Okay... SOOO Any more additions to the list?!?!?!?

Vikash? Josh? Hell, even Nick?!? (lol, jk nick, jk)

Unless someone swapped LSD internals into your diff, I don't see how it is possible for both wheels to spin the same way when the driveshaft is not turned.

So you're saying when you raise both rear wheels off the ground and rotate one, the other rotates in the same direction? Then does the driveshaft also rotate? Because it would have to... and if you were in gear the front wheels would also move.

I don't have a philosophy for the order of modifications. I just try to upgrade everything that I have to replace.

I sort of said my piece....try to do it right....do it once. Obviously if you decide to go for more power, you may need to replace something that you already worked on, but I think you get the idea. Engine management is one of those items.

vrg3 wrote:Unless someone swapped LSD internals into your diff, I don't see how it is possible for both wheels to spin the same way when the driveshaft is not turned.

So you're saying when you raise both rear wheels off the ground and rotate one, the other rotates in the same direction? Then does the driveshaft also rotate? Because it would have to... and if you were in gear the front wheels would also move.

I don't have a philosophy for the order of modifications. I just try to upgrade everything that I have to replace.

precisely.
i have no idea about the driveshaft rotating, i didn't pay that much attention. i'll check it out again when something breaks

and i feel the same way about the Mod list, just buy what you need to and don't fix it unless it's broken.

Cool...

I think the list is actually at this point done... Because it was originally intended for noobs so they dont dive into boost upping before other things... So once they get past a certain point this will become useless to them.

Josh... Mind sharing some info on Engine Management? I dont have much to put there.

I'd personally like to hear about Kleinkid's experience with the Autronic. From what I remember in his posts, he made an awesome amount of torque with it...

Looking at EM, there's three main kinds IMO. There may be other varients, but for this....you get the idea.

The first is an intercepter type of box that modifies coolant temperature or the MAF sensor, etc. This is usually done to trick the stock ECU into delivering more fuel, which is supposed to make more power. In most cases, you just run rich, and don't make any more power. Examples of this is are the ProECM, torque chip, SAFC. In almost all cases, I'd say don't even bother with something like this.

The next kind is a piggy back ECU, which again intercepts certain functions of the stock ECU, typically fueling and timing. These can sometimes work alright, but may fight the stock ECU, especially on newer model ECU's. They are typically limited in the functionality they can do, but can provide a basic overiding of the stock setup. Some may provide voltage clamping for boost cut removing, speed lmiter removal, etc. Examples of this kind is the perfect power 6, emanage ultimate/blue, etc.

The last kind is a full replacement ECU, or stand alone that takes the place of the stock ECU. There are lots of different stand alone ECU's. The basic ones provide you control over timing and fuel, and maybe a few other things. The top of the line ECU's like some of the MOTEC ECU's provide lot's of features, good resolution for tuning, data logging ability, ways to customize how you want to tune the engine, etc.

Where the more expensive stand alones shine is in their ability to provide correction factors for things like cold start idle enrichment for changes in load, boost control, drivability under light and medium loads, as well as just idling well. With stand alones....you do get for what you pay for. When I was doing my research I focused on some particular brands, and they all are good ECU's, but there were certain features one had over another taht made it better. One may have a feature that another doesn't, but then another has something the other doesn't. Not one ECU is going to have everything, and still provide you with a good bang for your buck. There is a compromise, and only you will be able to tell what that is based upon what you want it to do, what you want to do with your car, and how much you're willing to spend.

wow don't remember how i found this because it has taken awhile to read and try and comprehend all this but this is great stuff. right know i am on the road to completing suspension. front and rear sway bars, front and rear strut bars, front lower brace, front and rear end links, KYB struts all around, whiteline springs, now i will need bigger tires aha.
thanks again for another great find