legacycentral bbs

Oh dear god. When I said "she runs" I meant that I successfully got her to crank and fire on all cylinders... she was run for maybe 10 seconds before I cut power since nothing was hooked up yet.

Then today I checked the oil as I was finishing buttoning up some interior stuff. It looked like a starbucks latte.

So I changed the oil promptly, thinking maybe water got into my PCV vent and into the crank. Oil is now good, but when I start her up... CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK. The motor fires on all cylinders, but it sounds like it has rod knock. What the eff.

Well, I spoke too soon. I went for a short drive around my neighborhood and the ticking completely went away. I have checked the oil several times and it doesn't seem low or milky, but I'll probably still change it again in about a week.

As of now, she works!

Nice. Now where's the pics and video?

The only pic I took while I was out for a test drive today. More to come tomorrow as I keep bolting things back on. Here's a short video I made per your request just a second ago...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a_nOOCd ... ideo_title

Nice! I really like how those rims look on a 1st gen. Your power locks are LOUD, lol. I can't hear mine at all when unlocking - both my SS's were that way.

Door locks are loud like that on my car too, I always assumed that was normal. Great job fixing the car and not giving up on it and selling.

Thanks guys! Yeah, my door locks have always been really loud. Not sure why.

Still have the CEL on... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkDy404O ... ideo_title

Maybe someone can help me out. I thought the codes were supposed to be two digit... long flashes for the tens' place and short ones for the ones' place. This just seems to be 16 short flashes...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I14QILT5k8

This is my current problem. The IAC valve has been sprayed with carb cleaner and I've been able to achieve the result you see here in the video by careful adjustment of the valve. Sadly she still refuses to warm up normally, but at least the motor stays running now. Any ideas on what I could do to resolve this?

Well, found the source of the startup idle-hunting. HUGE pre-turbo, post-MAF vacuum leak. My intake elbow was hardly making contact with the turbo inlet, and it was cracked. Swapped it out for one I got at a junkyard, as well as changed out the BPV hose. I also reinstalled the turbo chimney and the plastic engine cover... looks pretty nice and stock now.

My issues with warm idle continue. Sometimes the car will idle really low: we're talking 500 or less RPM and even the occasional stall. Other times I get normal idle speeds. 1000rpm in neutral/park, 750-800 in gear. I pulled the ECU codes as I'm getting a CEL for codes 22, 24, and 33. These are Knock Sensor (22), Air Control Valve (24), and Vehicle Speed Sensor (33). My speedo isn't hooked up, which should be the cause of 33. I have an IACV and a TPS to swap in from the junkyard car... will either of those solve my "Air Control Valve" problem? I've tried to spray some carb cleaner inside my current IACV but to no avail.

Last but not least, I saw that there is an updated knock sensor available from Subaru? That should solve my code 22 problems yes?

Here's a pic from my outing yesterday. It's great to have her back.

Great to see her back on the road!

Strange. I get random "Josh idle". My friend's and I call it that because my friend Josh had this shitty Acura Integra that had like 20 previous owners that had an oscillating idle that would go up and down. Infamous honda idle. Sometimes my idle is nice and smooth and sometimes it's goes up and down. Don't understand why it's intermittent like that though.

Went up to the Santa Ana mountains yesterday. Going to need better sized tires, these ones rubbed and caused some fender damage. I'm contemplating making some 1" lift spacers and trying those instead.

Your car is super cute!