legacycentral bbs

beatersubi wrote:Can I hang out at your place on the weekends?
RE: the alignment pin removal. You could weld a stud, or something else, to the remainder of the pin to attach a slide hammer to. If the remainder of the pin isn't too deep in the hole, of course.

Hehe, well, it's my buddy's shop, but people are definitely welcome to stop by

I actually did finally solve my alignment pin issue, I first deburred everything I could, then drilled a progressively larger hole into the pin, then cut through the side of it, near my crank shaft with a small chisel and viola!

After that, I installed a new rear main seal. The welding thing was an idea, but I didn't want to subject my crank shaft to any more heat than necessary.

Here's some progress:

Push bar is almost complete!

I cut the crash beam mounts off.. *drilled the spot welds*



I then attached the braces to the car, welded a bar between them to locate the pieces while I've got em off the car.


Next I cut my bamboo... drilled the proper sized holes and started assembly:


Next I tied it up with some nylon rope:


And then after a few attempts, got the knots looking right, I finished it off with a nice coat of fiberglass resin:


Next will be mounting it on the car... And then making a plate for a winch to go behind the bamboo on some steel bracing... I wanted something unusual... Yet not implausible... Remember, post-apocalypse friendly! I need lightweight and strong!

Haha, freakin awesome!

You should drill through the cells and fill the bamboo with insulation or something.
Something light that will act as a buffer to shock.

Unusual, yes... for this part of the world. I bet a Vietnamese immigrant won't look twice at it.

That made me laugh! My brother's wife is Vietnamese so we'll see what she thinks haha

beatersubi wrote:Unusual, yes... for this part of the world. I bet a Vietnamese immigrant won't look twice at it.

Hehe, because they know it's awesome building material I've seen three story scaffolding made from it, when I was in the Navy.

SWRT wrote:That made me laugh! My brother's wife is Vietnamese so we'll see what she thinks haha

Hehe, I hope she gets a kick out of it. Yeah, I've had several people here in northern missouri love it or hate it and the people that didn't like it, all said, "but what happens to it when you crash?" I said, it bounces to some extent and if it's a hard enough crash, it explodes... which is WAY cooler than heavy, wimpy and more expensive bull bars that just tweak at any speed or pinch down on the front end during an accident... I then ask if they've seen anything short of 1/4" walled tubing handle any real abuse... Sure you can put up a big thick pipe on your bumper, but that does little for my car except make it heavy and in the event of an "oh crap, WHAM!" It's going to bend frame rails anyway.


At least this design is lightweight, quite affordable, cool looking, WONT RUST *heheh*, and at slow "push speeds, very durable.

The main bar is 2 3/4" wide and the smaller one is 2" diameter. the inner-bracing is what really helps it, it's cushioned by a sleeve of 1" dia. x 1/8th rolled steel pipe, welded to the crash beam ends and a very sturdy pipe of the same dimension that goes laterally between the two mounting brackets.

So its an OEM bolt-on bamboo bumper. hehe

Even somewhat antibacterial. Bamboo is an awesome building material. I'm still sorting the interior design of the car I'm building, but one of the designs uses bamboo. I'm also going to do my bedroom floors in bamboo since it's cheaper than most other wood, sustainable, and looks good. There's also a company (maybe more) in Colorado making bike frames with the stuff. I'd love to ride one, but I don't know where I could and they're big money to buy.

I think the bamboo isn't only smart, but looks good, more cinematic than steel.

I want one now! haha

evolutionmovement wrote:There's also a company (maybe more) in Colorado making bike frames with the stuff... they're big money to buy.

Ironic.

Well, the material is cheap, but making it is labor intensive and development cost money (less so with the bamboo bike as it's lugged steel, but the all wood frame bikes like Renovo must have required a good amount of failure testing). I looked into doing it for myself and decided it wasn't worth it. For that matter, steel is also cheap, but custom lugged steel frames aren't and there isn't even any development necessary with it as, some changes in geometry and fitting aside, the techniques and ideas go back over 100 years.

Well, I ordered/picked up the rest of my parts today for the trans...

Torque converter - finally arrived and in hand
Trans input shaft seal - arriving tomorrow
Converter extension hydraulic ring - picking up tomorrow
Trans filter kit from WIX with fresh fluid - picking up tomorrow

Engine install should happen on Thursday!

Then I'll be able to bring it in and out of the shop to finish up the bumper and roof tent install!

Man...that input seal is a freakin pain. Well, actually lining the torque converter up is. Sometimes the input shaft can slide outwards a bit. If it looks too far out you can tap it back in carefully. At least that's what I did...only after trying to get that converter to seat on for about 3 hours.

I think I may have left that stupid snap ring off though. It's not 100% necessary and you can remove the extension
without it being on there. Just make sure your torque converter is far enough back in the bell housing before dropping in the engine.

OOOOOOOOOOH! A WIX trans filter? Jealous!

I cant freakin wait, man! I'm pumped about your car

SWRT wrote:Man...that input seal is a freakin pain. Well, actually lining the torque converter up is. Sometimes the input shaft can slide outwards a bit. If it looks too far out you can tap it back in carefully. At least that's what I did...only after trying to get that converter to seat on for about 3 hours.

I think I may have left that stupid snap ring off though. It's not 100% necessary and you can remove the extension
without it being on there. Just make sure your torque converter is far enough back in the bell housing before dropping in the engine.

OOOOOOOOOOH! A WIX trans filter? Jealous!

I cant freakin wait, man! I'm pumped about your car

Thanks! hehe, yeah, one of the benefits of working for a parts store, I get a lil discount on parts, it's not huge, but when someone like me spends thousands of dollars on parts each year, it makes it worth it. I hope it helps em carry more scooby parts really, I'm tired of everything being special order though. There's likely to be no discount on special order parts, due to them being expensive and from the dealer in the long run.

Yeah, lame. I have a friend that used to work at Autozone and he'd get me a 20% discount on all my parts. It was nice while it lasted haha

SWRT wrote:Man...that input seal is a freakin pain. Well, actually lining the torque converter up is. Sometimes the input shaft can slide outwards a bit. If it looks too far out you can tap it back in carefully. At least that's what I did...only after trying to get that converter to seat on for about 3 hours.

I think I may have left that stupid snap ring off though. It's not 100% necessary and you can remove the extension
without it being on there. Just make sure your torque converter is far enough back in the bell housing before dropping in the engine.

OOOOOOOOOOH! A WIX trans filter? Jealous!

I cant freakin wait, man! I'm pumped about your car

It's quicker and easier to pull the torque tube, attach it to the TC, and re-install as a unit.
In case ya didn't already know.

SWRT wrote:Yeah, lame. I have a friend that used to work at Autozone and he'd get me a 20% discount on all my parts. It was nice while it lasted haha

LOL, that'd get me fired, they keep track of the cars I own..

beatersubi wrote:

SWRT wrote:Man...that input seal is a freakin pain. Well, actually lining the torque converter up is. Sometimes the input shaft can slide outwards a bit. If it looks too far out you can tap it back in carefully. At least that's what I did...only after trying to get that converter to seat on for about 3 hours.

I think I may have left that stupid snap ring off though. It's not 100% necessary and you can remove the extension
without it being on there. Just make sure your torque converter is far enough back in the bell housing before dropping in the engine.

OOOOOOOOOOH! A WIX trans filter? Jealous!

I cant freakin wait, man! I'm pumped about your car

It's quicker and easier to pull the torque tube, attach it to the TC, and re-install as a unit.
In case ya didn't already know.

Yup, the extension housing clicks right in, hopefully my TC seal comes in tomorrow, the filter kit is in already, have to go by the dealership to pick up the teflon seal though, silly thing is only a dollar, but is a 140 mile round trip to the dealer from my house/shop.

beatersubi wrote:

SWRT wrote:Man...that input seal is a freakin pain. Well, actually lining the torque converter up is. Sometimes the input shaft can slide outwards a bit. If it looks too far out you can tap it back in carefully. At least that's what I did...only after trying to get that converter to seat on for about 3 hours.

I think I may have left that stupid snap ring off though. It's not 100% necessary and you can remove the extension
without it being on there. Just make sure your torque converter is far enough back in the bell housing before dropping in the engine.

OOOOOOOOOOH! A WIX trans filter? Jealous!

I cant freakin wait, man! I'm pumped about your car

It's quicker and easier to pull the torque tube, attach it to the TC, and re-install as a unit.
In case ya didn't already know.

Well I think what it was is that when my friend pulled the converter out it pulled the input shaft out a bit so when we went to slide it back on it would never go all the way one. Eventually I took that tube and got it mated, then tried to line up the TC with that only to discover after a few hours that the shaft was out too far. I heard it'd take a while to line up so I never bothered checking the distance between the shafts inside the TC and I looked up a picture on my camera and noticed that the input shaft was a little further inside the trans than it was when we started. That kind of tipped me off that we may have pulled it out a bit and a few taps with a brass hammer and it was in

Legacy Rally Guy wrote:

SWRT wrote:Yeah, lame. I have a friend that used to work at Autozone and he'd get me a 20% discount on all my parts. It was nice while it lasted haha

LOL, that'd get me fired, they keep track of the cars I own..

Yeah, we both owned Legacy Wagons haha

Yup, the extension housing clicks right in, hopefully my TC seal comes in tomorrow, the filter kit is in already, have to go by the dealership to pick up the teflon seal though, silly thing is only a dollar, but is a 140 mile round trip to the dealer from my house/shop.

Yeah, mine was being difficult Would have been nice to go as smooth as that.
Yours has a teflon seal on the pan?

SWRT wrote:

Legacy Rally Guy wrote:

SWRT wrote:Yeah, lame. I have a friend that used to work at Autozone and he'd get me a 20% discount on all my parts. It was nice while it lasted haha

LOL, that'd get me fired, they keep track of the cars I own..

Yeah, we both owned Legacy Wagons haha

Yup, the extension housing clicks right in, hopefully my TC seal comes in tomorrow, the filter kit is in already, have to go by the dealership to pick up the teflon seal though, silly thing is only a dollar, but is a 140 mile round trip to the dealer from my house/shop.

Yeah, mine was being difficult Would have been nice to go as smooth as that.
Yours has a teflon seal on the pan?

Well, I stayed up late, got the following installed:

-Flexplate
-Oil pan
-Replaced broken timing cover

Also:

While the oil pan was removed, I de-greased, scuffed and repainted the exterior of the pan a nice gloss black. I also cleaned up my SS front rotors, painted them with a nice high temp black header paint.


More stuff to keep me busy as a one legged man in an ass-kicking contest.
NEXT:

[Make car mobile]
Install torque converter, drop engine back in, replace intake.

[Increase approach angle]
-adjust radiator
-trim back sheet metal

[Install Front bumper]
-bamboo

[Install Fording Snorkel]

[Install Roof Tent]
-make mounting braket

[Install SS Front Brakes]
-repaint calipers
-check for leaks

Man, I'm so freakin jealous of your car.

Please take pictures of the process of mounting that bamboo push bumper.
I want to make one of those too if I can figure out how you did it haha
As long as you dont mind, that is. It was your idea.

SWRT wrote:Man, I'm so freakin jealous of your car.

Please take pictures of the process of mounting that bamboo push bumper.
I want to make one of those too if I can figure out how you did it haha
As long as you dont mind, that is. It was your idea.

It's pretty simple, and I dont mind at all... And no need to be jealous, the only thing I've got in this car is a fix for my boredom. hehe! But thank you!

materials:
2x 2.5" dia bamboo stick
1x 1.5" dia bamboo stick

hole saw blade *slightly smaller diameter than the 1.5" stick

1/4" cotton rope

fiberglass resin and hardener

3x 2" throw away paintbrushes....


I decided on length/angle/etc of bars.

Cut two main bars then measured and marked for uprights.

Carefully drilled between cells for holes for uprights in lower bar, keeping uprights fairly long.

Used a round wood rasp to widen holes to near-fitting in the uprights, then used 220 grit to custom fit each hole. *keep track of which ends fit where with a sharpie. I used a few dots. so they were hidden easily.

Trial fit everything, seeing how much I need to cut off of uprights.

I then trimmed uprights, and after I had it nearly to my desired height, I tapered to a 2D half moon; the ends of each upright with a belt sander so it fit all the way down into the receiving piece's wall. *this also gives additional rigidity to the structure, giving it more contact points.

[Note: be sure to sand toward the end grain, if you sand into the piece from the edge, it will cause the fiber to run and peel.]

I didn't take any pictures of the assembly of the bumper so far, as I was just building by the seat of my pants...

for the mounting of the bumper, I've saved two 1.5" stalks about 8" long that I drilled the center cells through and sanded smooth the interior and fit 1/8th steel tubes that I will weld to the mounting plates of the original crash beam... they'll be welded in place to the steel pieces. They are currently properly spaced apart, to keep alignment with a tacked in place bar between the two. *will take pictures of this. * and after I weld on the uprights I'll only have to slide the sleeves on and run a bolt through to fix the bamboo to the original mounting points. The bolts will be hidden with rope. They then will receive a resin coat to keep the rope binding nice and tight. If I choose later to remove the bamboo bumper or need to repair it, I merely cut the rope off and sand off the remaining resin. Or if I want to switch bumpers, it'll unbolt with the original four bolts.


EDIT: I just noticed this is my 555th post! How very Subaru! Random thought: I dont think those 555 brand cigarettes exist anymore, it's more Subaru than smokes now.

Dang. I want to try this when I get some free time...and find someone around here with a welder.

Nice! I have some 555 Mud Flaps on my 2.5 RS. Oh, and I think there's a place up in NYC that still
sells them. And I've heard they're still in Asia.

My friend and I have a running joke about that. He lives in Washington now though
but we still see 555 everywhere.

SWRT wrote:Dang. I want to try this when I get some free time...and find someone around here with a welder.

Nice! I have some 555 Mud Flaps on my 2.5 RS. Oh, and I think there's a place up in NYC that still
sells them. And I've heard they're still in Asia.

My friend and I have a running joke about that. He lives in Washington now though
but we still see 555 everywhere.

*random fact* In Thai, "5" is pronounced "ha" so when I chat with my friend from Thailand, she types, "555"