legacycentral bbs

You're welcome.

Hoping that the MPFI diode solves your issue. It would finally put this to rest!

robertpaige wrote:Hoping that the MPFI diode solves your issue. It would finally put this to rest!

me too.
but its not.
both diode's tested good.
so now im back to step 1
im about to give up on this and get another wagon .
will report back if n e thing changes.
thanks everyone for all the info.

Damn this thread is starting to get me all worked up. Seeing as you have literally checked everything sometimes twice.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

cj91legss wrote:Damn this thread is starting to get me all worked up. Seeing as you have literally checked everything sometimes twice.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

yup its a heart breaker thats for sure.
but putting this on the back burner for now.
dont know what else to do but hope something sparks inside me.
once again thanks for all the help everyone.

Just a long shot and probably too irritating to tackle but what about snagging an n/a harness and converting it to turbo?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

cj91legss wrote:Just a long shot and probably too irritating to tackle but qhat about snagging an n/a harness and converting it to turbo?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

definitely not in the books/plans lol

May not be but may need be.....

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

UPDATE:
well after all this time i finally got it to start.
after taking some time off with this project i started at step one again.
check timing and crank was off.
i was sooooo sure my timing was correct that i didnt know i line up the crank with the arrow.
so it started but am running really rich.
think i got a couple air leaks somewhere.
now got to figure out codes 22 and 23.
so once again
thanks everyone for replys.

Both those will make you run rich. 22 (knock) will throw the car into limp mode and make it run like absolute shit and be really rich. 23 will also affect that a ton as well, grab another MAF from a junkyard or try and clean yours. THose two codes aren't hard to solve! Really glad you got it running again. Sometimes we forget to just triple check our work.

robertpaige wrote:Both those will make you run rich. 22 (knock) will throw the car into limp mode and make it run like absolute shit and be really rich. 23 will also affect that a ton as well, grab another MAF from a junkyard or try and clean yours. THose two codes aren't hard to solve! Really glad you got it running again. Sometimes we forget to just triple check our work.

thanks for the tip.
and you are completely right on that one.
CHECK YOUR WORK
sometimes you just need to take a breather and step back tho .
also do you think the codes can be caused by a air leak?
i'll have to take a picture of the intake i made for it.
but will be updating as i progress.
thanks once again for all the help everyone.

I do think an air leak will cause a maf code.

An air leak probably will not cause a code to come up. These ECU's are not that smart. The ECU just looks at the electrical side to throw a code.

Yeah I agree with Josh. When I had my stroker leggy I had a coffee cup mod. Well the shop that had it before me spray painted the coffee cup black with some cheap shit paint to test for 'leaks'. The paint would get hot and would get all sticky and make my coupler slide off no matter how hard I tightened it until I sanded off the paint around it. Anyways it would slide off my MAF and make the car run like ass, and even though there was a MASSIVE air leak I never threw a code or anything for it.

So your MAF just might be bad.

Ah, I was under the impression that if there was wasted air or not enough the maf would freak out. My apologies.