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But that wouldnt explain the compression of zero in cylinder #1. and there is a black spot on my driveway from unburnt gas and it smells like its running rich (smells like fuel) when i let it warm up every morning. Thanks for the reply though ^^
Just finished my sti pink emblem. putting it on tomorrow morning! and with the coffee cup mod, can i just use like water-proof epoxy sealant to connect the nipples? i dont have a welder

Sorry I missed the second page where you found the problem.

92ColoradoTurbo wrote:But that wouldnt explain the compression of zero in cylinder #1. and there is a black spot on my driveway from unburnt gas and it smells like its running rich (smells like fuel) when i let it warm up every morning. Thanks for the reply though ^^
Just finished my sti pink emblem. putting it on tomorrow morning! and with the coffee cup mod, can i just use like water-proof epoxy sealant to connect the nipples? i dont have a welder

I used Teflon Tape on my threads and then put high temp RTV around the base once they were screwed in. I could have made it a lot prettier, but it gets the job done.

jefferson wrote:Sorry I missed the second page where you found the problem.

Yea and i think i made another... Stupid Haynes repair manual said to remove the "six" bolts around the valve cover to get it off..... turns out, those are the bolts to my heads i think and my head gasket is probably offset now, they need to be at a certain torque setting, right?
And the breather hoses that connect to the top of my valve covers shattered so i went to the dealership, they dont have em in stock. So i might being getting my heads machined earlier than i thought!
Working on DD's suck

Ya there are 3 10mm bolts along the middle of the valve covers to remove them. The six on the outside are the head bolts. They are supposed to be loosened and tightened in step and to torque spec. You could try torquing the head back to spec, but you're rolling the dice on whether the head gasket will still be good or not. If I were you I'd go ahead and undo the timing, pull the heads, and then you'll know for sure what your issue is. If the heads are still good, just clean everything up, replace head gaskets, and re install. For the breather hoses, just use generic vacuum hose from any auto parts store, and just cut it to length. I feel you on the DD thing. My daily driver is also my daily project. Writing this from my garage as I'm in the middle of working on the car lol.

-Cars body looks pretty straight. Good pick up! I'm up in Thornton!

-Joe

Yea i loosened the top 3 14mm bolts and i had to hammer in the wheel well a little to get the thrid one out and then i was like, try loosening the 10mils.... the the valve cover came off... Yea i think i might just take everything apart now but its supposed to snow tomorrow -.- But with the hoses, my dad thinks one might kink cause its and such an angle.
Thanks Cav3man, I wanna bondo the dent on the door and bondo the small rust spot along the rocker panel then get it painted like the aegian blue or whatever, the california blue i say

Are you sure you verifed that the TDC was on the compression stroke....so both sets of valves were closed? Also, when you were doing the leak down test did you remove the oil filler cap to hear if any air is coming out through the crank case?

Also, you can d/l the factory manual from me, which has info on the engine/head rebuild process.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... lectrical)

Legacy777 wrote:Are you sure you verifed that the TDC was on the compression stroke....so both sets of valves were closed? Also, when you were doing the leak down test did you remove the oil filler cap to hear if any air is coming out through the crank case?

Well i stuck a long screwdriver done the spark plug hole and manually cranked the engine and the screwdriver went down then up and i stopped cranking right when the screwdriver stopped moving up. And i wasnt cranking very fast cause it took forever to get tdc. But yes, i did listen down the oil filler cap, and the throttle body and coolant resevoir and exhaust. i could hear air from the exhaust, not the others.

The piston could be at TDC during two of the four engine strokes, the compression and exhaust stroke. Depending on the cam, the intake valve will likely be starting to open at TDC during the exhaust stroke, but it may not be open enough.

Take a look at this picture, which may help clarify things.



You probably have things correct, but I'm just suggesting you make sure before tearing the engine apart. You can also remove the valve cover and verify that the cam lobes are not slightly opening any valves.

So i bought some heater hoses with 1/2" ID which matched up with the 1/2" OD of the valve covers. Even though the hose couldnt be bent too far or else kinking, i think it'll work!




And with the red arrow, it's pointing at the valve cover gaskets that i replaced, thats the blue thing. Is it supposed to protrude so far? I read through that service manual on your website Josh and it said the valve cover bolts had a torque setting of 27-35ft*lb and i did about 30.

And some pics cause i know everybody likes em! woo new k4rt3oy shifter knob, thanks alex! and some interior shots cause i dont have any on here. and painted my grille, awaiting a sti pink emblem! woo





yay snow! gunna go up the mountain in a bit

Legacy777 wrote:You can also remove the valve cover and verify that the cam lobes are slightly opening any valves.

are or arn't? can i manually crank the engine with the valve cover off and see if the cam lobes are not pushing any of the valves in?

That should be are NOT opening any of the valves.

Sorry about that.

And i'm guessing I have to put the valve cover back on after i make sure the valves are all shut?

You mean between testing? If so, no you can leave the cover off and do the leak down test.

Obviously you'll need to put it back on before you start up the engine though.

Ok cool, yeah i'm just asking about the leak down test. I'll do it again and see what comes up. Thanks Josh.

OK, time to update a little and hopefully get some insight from you guys!

Just a refresher...
Cyl 1 = 0 compression
Cyl 2, 3, 4 = ~110
Leak down test results: air only coming out of exhaust

Today, I pulled the codes (connected both black wires/connectors) and also my buddy and I installed a boost gauge.

Codes:
11 = Crank Angle Sensor
13 = Cam Angle Sensor
22 = Knock Sensor
23 = Air Flow Sensor
24 = Air Control Valve
31 = Throttle Sensor
45 = Pressure Sensor & Pressure Exchange Solenoid Valve
49 = Air Flow Sensor
(symptoms here: http://www.legacycentral.org/library/li ... /codes.htm)
I've heard the bad knock sensor can be really bad for subaru's and that replacing them is like night&day so I'm guessing I'll replace that asap. I don't know about the others, especially #45... Any 2nd opinions would be greatly appreciated
EDIT: I don't have Fuel Cut like code 45 says it should....this confuses me

Installed the boost gauge and had it "T" at the vacuum hose that plugs right into the front of the intake mani, right between the silencer/reducer and exhaust canister thingy...
It read 9-10psi Vacuum (it was shaking in between 9 and 10 for a moment, then steady at 10, then back to shaking) and then WOT, it was at 8psi boost.
I've read that vacuum should be like 12-16 i think. I'm not sure.

Any ideas would be great, imma research some threads while yall read this! thanks

18-25

I just did a gauge myself and can confirm its in that area. Mine is right at 20.

Engine vacuum will depend on your elevation. Being that you're in CO, it will be lower then at sea level.

Also, clear the codes and see what codes come back. I doubt all the sensors are bad or the problem.

Yea, my buddies legacy is at 18 vacuum and he lives here in the Springs too.
But Josh, how do i clear codes? I read that i connect the green and black connectors under the dash and then drive up till 4th gear (for manual) with them connected [this should clear the codes]
and then turn off car and check the CEL's, is that right?

Yes

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well which ones do i plug in. There is male black connector and a female black connector and a male green connector and a female green connector. which two do i plug together?
I plugged both green ones in and it just flashed at me once every second when the car was on and then just stayed lit while the engine was off but key in on position... help

the black female is hiding behind the thick wire. and the connectors dont reach across either so do i have to cut some tape thats holding all the wires together?