CV joints replacement

Flywheel, Clutch, Transmission, Axles, etc...

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legacy92ej22t
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Location: Cogan Station, PA

Post by legacy92ej22t »

unexpected problems were over budget had to go economy style :) did the other side yesterday went super smooth maybe .5 hrs with brake job.had enough time that i put new rotors and pads on my friends 93L sedan for him.didnt have time for a real test drive until tonight when i got home from work.she runs great!super smooth, braking is consistant,smooth and solid.its so nice not to clunk around corners.stoked at last.
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE

[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
Brat4by4
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Location: NE Ohio

Post by Brat4by4 »

Hate to spoil it for the hardcore Do-It-Yourselfers, but... this is how axle work goes for me.

Drive in. Pay for new axle with lifetime warranty + install.

Drive away. Any more problems with any purchased half-shaft and they are stuck screwing with it for the rest of my life.

5 new half-shafts went on the exact same wheel of my Brat this way.... Boots kept ripping apart (no shadiness or off-roading on my part), oh well, they dealt with it.
1993 WMP BC6 5MT EJ22T 9psi 3.9:1 213k 205/55R16

62.6 m/s @ 0.66 bar. Gotta love boost. :)
ciper
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Post by ciper »

"economy style" I doubt the dealer parts are any more expensive than the generic stuff. Check the price list in the first forum and then enter those into subaruparts.com
legacy92ej22t
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Post by legacy92ej22t »

subaru's price was around 80$US, got mine for 38$US.seals were close,I saved maybe 4$ on them.trust me I'm usually a quality over quanity type guy but I was not expecting to loose the bearing in the first place or have a shop torch and air hammer my axle out of the steering knuckle.so take into account 1-had to get a new tone wheel[35$ used]2-new wheel bearing and seals[around 58$]3-shop time on my axle and repressing my hub/wheel bearing[45$]4-gas running all over hell and back trying to get good deals[around 10$v8 pickup doesnt get the suby mileage]5-destroying 6"2 jaw puller[13$]6-the horrible depression I experienced from not driving my baby for 2 weeks :( [my shrink will bill me later] :) so as you can see i was severly over budget.all above money was money i didnt have.
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE

[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
michael888us
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Post by michael888us »

i have the same problem with the rear cv axle ,i got the pin out ,axle nut off but the axle still stay in the hub ,i tried the hub puller ,big ass hammer,it still would give up,so i am thinking to remove the whole assambly,anyone know how to take off the rear parking cable off the rotor?
evolutionmovement
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Location: Beverly, MA

Post by evolutionmovement »

Just did the rear brakes a few weeks ago... I assume the rotor isn't just popping off easily for you or you wouldn't have asked.

First buy replacement pins and cups (or at least the little cups 2/side) that hold the parking brake shoes to the backing plate as the cups may get damaged and the pins may be rusty and brittle. Shoes are optional as even a parking-brake-pulling-guy like me doesn't wear them out quickly.

Then remove the rubber cap on the backing plate behind the rotor. The cap covers a little water wheel-like thing to adjust the brake shoes. If you stick a screwdriver in there you can turn the wheel (I forget which way, but I think up), which will loosen the shoes from the insdie of the drum.

Pull off rotor. When it doesn't work, use a puller (I used a real cheap steering wheel one, which was fine) with the conveniently supplied tapped holes in the rotor to try to get it to come off evenly. This may be a PITA as it may want to come off unevenly do the shoes not being loose enough and dragging. Persevere and make sure you keep a couple lug nuts on the end so if the sucker pops, it won't hurt you. If it pops, you likely destroyed the retaining cups to the parking shoes, which is OK as you got new ones. Reinstalling the shoes sucks as you need to push the cups in while holding and aligning from the other side the double skeleton-key-like pin through the slot in the cup. I used the end of a ratchet, which allowed the pin to go through the slotted gap. Rotating the pin 90 deg to lock it on is the tough part. I don't remember how I eventually got it, but there was lots of swearing involved (it's always the smallest things that cause the most trouble). Don't forget to readjust brake shoes after with that water-wheel-like thing. Sounds worse than it is as the whole thing (discounting the head scratching) still only took me about an hour working in the street.

It's not just the guys with garages that I'm jealous of - I don't even have a driveway.

Steve
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
evolutionmovement
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Location: Beverly, MA

Post by evolutionmovement »

OOps! You said cable! Doh! :oops: After all that writing. Well, I think rotor needs to be removed to take the cable out anyway...

Steve
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
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