Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 2:46 am
I think that'd be sweet! I remember looking at some of the merchandise at the Ithaca Hemp Company and wondering about asking them to make a resonator delete too... 
vrg3 wrote:Pics?
legacycentral bbs
A forum for 89-94 BC-BF(BJ) Legacy Owners and Fans
https://bbs.legacycentral.org/
Second take: Coffee Cup Mod.
Page 4 of 4
Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 1:44 pm
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 4:30 pm
I got the measurments for my resonator delete. I had a question though. There is an inlet to outlet offset, how did you guys get your straight piece to fit in there?
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 10:00 pm
ithe wonderful thing about the coffee mug is one side has a bigger diameter than the other so it takes care of the sizing difference between the piping, The oulet from the maf and the inlet to the trbo are a little offset left to right but the plastic is bendable enough that it doesnt matter and there are no modifications needed to compensate for that.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 11:53 pm
The glass is going to be made. I just wanted to know beforehand if anyone approached it in a different way. I don't think anyone had to bend the cup to get it in so I should be ok and it will look nice to boot.
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 6:22 pm
I would try to get the custom glass piece made with the offset. You can kind of see in the picture that the MAF elbow is kind of slightly squished towards the front of the car and that the compressor elbow is kind of slightly squished towards the rear of the car.
These are measurements I took a long time ago of a stock resonator:
Inlet is 80mm O.D. and 22mm long.
Outlet is 65mm O.D. and 21mm long.
Body is 100mm long.
Axis of inlet and axis of outlet are 20mm apart.
These are measurements I took a long time ago of a stock resonator:
Inlet is 80mm O.D. and 22mm long.
Outlet is 65mm O.D. and 21mm long.
Body is 100mm long.
Axis of inlet and axis of outlet are 20mm apart.
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 7:14 pm
What's that in inches? Just kidding. I measured it at work and I only had a standard tape measure. I can't stand using inches anymore. I wish we could just use the metric system, it's easier to understand.
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:23 pm
Well, it still might be good to compare your numbers to mine after converting, to see if either of us goofed.
Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2005 2:41 pm
It was a novel idea but I'm not going to bother now because the guy is taking way too long to give me feedback.
Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:44 pm
Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 1:04 am
Hey Phil,
I didn't see any spill proof mugs.
This was the only thing they had in the automotive section. Is it the right one?
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... mages/mug/
The blue one is one Vikash sent me.
The large part of the blue one fits the elbow good, the small end is a little short and smaller in diameter then the elbow before the turbo.
If this is the correct mug, do I just hack off the top and bottom of the mug?
I didn't see any spill proof mugs.
This was the only thing they had in the automotive section. Is it the right one?
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... mages/mug/
The blue one is one Vikash sent me.
The large part of the blue one fits the elbow good, the small end is a little short and smaller in diameter then the elbow before the turbo.
If this is the correct mug, do I just hack off the top and bottom of the mug?
Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 1:19 am
That mug looks similar but not identical to the one Phil and I used.
With the "spillproof" mug from Target, you don't actually need to cut any metal; the bottom of the mug is a plastic piece that's snapped on, and the interior and top are another plastic piece. I can't tell for sure whether or not the mug you have there has the same construction.
With that ghetto blue plastic one, it's correct that the small end isn't quite the right size, but it worked for me for quite some time. That whole area is under a very slight vacuum most of the time, and is never pressurized.
The Target mug we used is a tiny bit too big at the big end.
With the "spillproof" mug from Target, you don't actually need to cut any metal; the bottom of the mug is a plastic piece that's snapped on, and the interior and top are another plastic piece. I can't tell for sure whether or not the mug you have there has the same construction.
With that ghetto blue plastic one, it's correct that the small end isn't quite the right size, but it worked for me for quite some time. That whole area is under a very slight vacuum most of the time, and is never pressurized.
The Target mug we used is a tiny bit too big at the big end.
Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 1:22 am
Well, there's plastic at the top and bottom. I'll have to get rough with it and see if I can take it apart.
Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 6:00 am
so is anybody selling completed mugs? or just the parts?
i need a solution quick so i can drive my impreza! i didnt get any of the intake things with my swap
but i found a MAF and airbox.
does anybody have that 90 degree bend i could buy..? (the one from the airbox to the resonator, not resonater to turbo)
i need a solution quick so i can drive my impreza! i didnt get any of the intake things with my swap
but i found a MAF and airbox.does anybody have that 90 degree bend i could buy..? (the one from the airbox to the resonator, not resonater to turbo)
Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 6:55 am
you can use plumber elbows for that id think. or silicone form a local hose shop
as for completted mugs, no. i dont think anyone sells them unless their selling them because their not using them. you can make it yourself for minimal cost. or you can get a pipe and a shinker if you dont want to use a mug
as for completted mugs, no. i dont think anyone sells them unless their selling them because their not using them. you can make it yourself for minimal cost. or you can get a pipe and a shinker if you dont want to use a mug