legacycentral bbs

I bet they catch fire from oil leaking out of the oil pump, since thats pretty common on subies. I still need to get some of that silicone spray for the wrap. Other than that, it seems to be working out fine.

Well, reworked the pipe set yesterday. Two of us took ten hours. Basically a pain in the ass. There still is a slight angle on it, but nowhere near what it was before. I didn't get a large puff of oil when I started it up this morning, which is a good thing. That and last night, I heard it still spinning for about 20 seconds when I turned it off which I couldn't really hear before. That could have been because there was a puddle of oil chilling on the real seal and bearing. I dunno.

The downpipe is about 1/8 inch from the firewall, but I'm gonna wrap it in the next day or two. I also still need to rework the compressor outlet a little bit, but it works for now.

5th and 6th Gear Tunnel Pulls To 4500RPM FTW!

No way to get the speedo to work?

There is, but he needs a newer speedo... and doesn't have the funds at the moment.

he should be able to use his old speedo setup... you just need to unscrew the electric sensor on the tranny and screw in your cable setup.

jake15 wrote:he should be able to use his old speedo setup... you just need to unscrew the electric sensor on the tranny and screw in your cable setup.

bingo

It's really that easy? Wow. I was going to suggest, as I have MUCH experience with driving sans speedo (and tach for that matter), that there are ways to build stand-alone digital speedos. But if all you have to do is swap out a little part, man that is easy.

Damn is it nice to have a Subaru.

Looks better, still tilted more than I'd like to see, but it should be OK.

Is that as level as you could get it?

My understanding from both Garrett and Perrin is that the new GT turbos do not need any where near the oil pressure that the mitsu turbos do.
The newer Subaru engines run something like 90psi of oil pressure and Garrett says their turbos are rated for about half that. A restrictor pill is a must or else you get oil blowing past the seals.
The Perrin kit uses the off the shelf cold side and CHRA with an older style T series turbine housing machined to fit iirc.

That is a cool garage monster. I bet a few corvettes and the like in your area might come down with a case of bruised egos.

The turbo looks far less tilted in person than the pictures, for some reason the camera angle makes it look funny.

There ya go. That looks like it should be just fine. Nice work man.

When do we see some dyno charts?

That is as level as I could get it, and the downpipe taps the tranny a little bit. I'm thinking when I get my tax return back, I'll get an external gate (44mm?) and a straight up 3" v-band exhaust housing. That'll give me alot more room. With my T25 to v-band adapter, the turbo is really long. I'd be going from a .86 to a .78 exhaust housing.



As it sits now, it at about a 5 degree angle. It was at about a 40 degree angle before.



As for the speedo gear assembly, I'll have to give it a shot. I'm moving back to the cities on wednesday so things are a little crazy right now.


I'll get some doyno charts when Iget some sort of a diff controller ans pushing somewhere near 20 psi

How does the turbo spool? With a .86 it should have a mean top-end. I'd try to keep the .86 exhaust housing if possible. We had a built motor WRX with a GT35 with a 1.08 exhaust housing, and that thing was hellacious. Dyno chart like a Honda, power just kept coming!

The .78 would help spool a bit with the short gearing of the 6-speed though.

I'd just get a TIAL 44mm wastegate, dump it for cool points, and just grind the tranny case a little. That or raise the turbo up a little bit when you do the wastegate.

It actually spools really nice right now. 3500rpm and its on boil, but at only 9psi right now. I've got about 1100 miles on it so I'm taking my time. If I'm at 3500 or above, I can regulate boost with the throttle, which is kinda sweet. I may keep it, I dunno. I've got time to think about it. The nissan guys say these snails really like external gates, so I wanna give it a shot. Plus, I could clock the compressor housing however I want and not have to worry about the damn actuator.


On another note, where do people have their EGT sensor mounted and what kind of temps do you read? I have mine in the collector right before the uppipe. My EGT's seem kinda high though. I don't know if its cause I'm getting exhaust from all the ports coming together right there, or that I probably don't have enough timing in it, since I started with the Link V7 basemap, which is probably for a 2.0L. On the way back up here from the twin cities, I was seeing 1380-1400 at 3300rpm and 14.5-15.0 afr. Under boost it doesn't go over 1450, but thats at about 10.3 afr. ?????

That's a pretty lean AFR!!! Of course your EGT's are high. Is that off-boost, cruising? What are the conditions? Sounds a bit high... Could be all in the basemap being not right for the car. You should start tuning the bottom end of the maps.

We usually put them in the flat spot on the bottom of the drivers side header.

At full tilt, a stock car should peak 1600F or so. Stock, Subarus seem to lean out like a sumbitch.

sell the expensive turbo, get a holset and an external gate then pocket the rest. I'd get a 12cm HY35w but an HX would work great for high RPM power.
upsides:
T3 flange, 90* outlet on some HY35's, V band center section, v band exhaust, cheap rebuilds, cheap entry fee, super durable, super efficient, variety of turbine housings to choose from, POWER.
downsides:
you cant brag about big bucks on it, no watercooling.

I was talking about cruizing at 14.5-15 afr at 10-15 in Hg. When I give it any boost, it richens up immensly. At my 9psi, I'm getting low 10's afr. Up to 5k rpm, I don't get more than 1450 degrees or so at 9psi.

I'm just wondering about my location with the manifold being wrapped and that location getting exhaust gas from all ports.



As far as getting a holset, I won't save that much. This turbo was 1050 at my door. With 25 years more advanced areodynamics. It seems very efficient at a boost level well below its efficiency range. I'm happy with the decision I made.

from what Ive read, holset's housings are the best designed in the business. $1050 is about twice what you would pay for a near new condition holset and a brand new tial 44.
Ive got a 2003ish hy35w with a 9cm exhaust and 90* outlet needing a rebuild sitting here, believe its off an automatic. I'll bet that when its ready to go I'll have under 150 in it(providing the center section isnt shot) it'll spool pretty quickly and will support well over 400hp. really, holsets are no joke.
but if you are happy with your setup than by all means stick with that.

My new motor shall have a Holset on it...

Holset's are awesome, absolutely. I was going to put an HY35 on my car at some point. They are efficient for a lot of pressure ratios, but it's still a diesel turbo, and diesels don't make the EGT's that spark ignition engines do. Garrett pretty much corners the market when it comes to wheel efficiency and bearing design.

While $1050 is a lot, Garrett turbo's are some of the most efficient turbos out there. For Dan's build and goals, I can't imagine a better turbo. Good low end, lots of top end, and a nice efficiency. Plus, Garrett rebuilds aren't that expensive.

We've used a lot of Garrett turbos, and I'm speaking only from experience. When professional time attack race cars use Garrett Turbo's, there's gotta be a reason (especially when they make over 680whp on 110 octane, on a turbo that makes full boost before 4500RPM). They are like Forced Performance turbo's for "normal" cars. They work, and they work very very well (380whp and over 400lb-ft out of an FP18G... on pump gas, with a top mount).

I turned it up to 17psi. Its pretty wild, for me at least. I think I need a better boost control solenoid. If the turbo spools up quick, it overshoots to about 20psi. I tried put a restriction in the feed for the BCS so it doesn't have to work as hard, but it didn't really do much. The Perrin one looks nice

With the boost over shooting like that, I'm really close to the limit of my MAP sensor, which is 2.5 bar. I guess I'll have to get the 7 bar one.

I'm also looking at larger injectors. Granted its rich as hell at this much boost, like 10.0-10.3:1, but my duty cycles are getting up there to over 90%. I'm thinking about a adj FPR, but I don't know how far that would take me. And to do that, I'll have to swap my lines for higher pressure stuff. Then again, dropping in some 810cc sr20 injectors would be easy. I should be able to get a few duckets for the 650's in there right now.



All in all, she feels pretty god right now. Its pretty easy to keep it off boost for puttin around, goes like a raped ape when iput the pedal down. I've been playing with the 3D boost map a bunch cause 17psi at 1/3 throttle sounds like fun untill you try to not drive like an asshat.


Oh, and I'm on the lookout for a dccd controller so I can get this thing on a dyno.


a little vid (17mb)
http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u149 ... I_1045.flv

93forestpearl wrote:
With the boost over shooting like that, I'm really close to the limit of my MAP sensor, which is 2.5 bar. I guess I'll have to get the 7 bar one.

2.5 bar is like 37.5 psi...

Don't think you are gonna hit the max yet...

at sea level 1 bar=14.7 psi

2.5 bar means a range from zero pressure to atmospheric(~1 bar) to 1.5 bar past that which is about 22 psi above atmospheric. I've hit the limit, and a nice little box popped up letting me know.

The 7 bar sensor only runs about $70-80, I think I don't think I'd need another sensor beyond that sheesh.


I guess I'm just trying to not let the man get me down, argg