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How much does that flywheel weigh? I have a WRX clutchmasters lightweight flywheel but I can't remember what it weighs. I want to say 13 lbs but I'm not sure.

Here it is.

Flywheel is 12lbs.

Pulled the EJ20G off the stand and threw the EJ22T on it... removed the head since my buddy was around... So uh... here we go:

But first:

Going to get some hose clamps for that to replace the shitty metal "zip ties".

...and the good stuff:





There's a pretty massive gash on the wall in that cylinder. So I'm going to have to have some serious work done on the block if I'm going to reuse it... I'll take the block to a machine shop and see how much it'll cost, and if it's even possible. Then I'll decide what I'm going to do. The head is also pretty screwed up at the top of the #1 cylinder, but I really don't intend to reuse those.

Oh yeah... here's a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LJ4vzZg2l0

Destroyed ringland. Looks like from there it allowed the piston to start rocking. The rest is history.

Block might clean up with a maximum (or close to) overbore piston. After that you will need to sleeve it. That is only cost worth if your after 500+ horsepower or *have to have* a closed deck EJ25. A "new" 22T block would be cheaper.

The EJ20G should keep you happy for a while. Other than just off the line, it outruns an EJ22T everywhere else.

PhyrraM wrote:Block might clean up with a maximum (or close to) overbore piston. After that you will need to sleeve it. That is only cost worth if your after 500+ horsepower or *have to have* a closed deck EJ25. A "new" 22T block would be cheaper.

The EJ20G should keep you happy for a while. Other than just off the line, it outruns an EJ22T everywhere else.

That's pretty much exactly what I was thinking. lol Will a machine shop be able to determine if the gash in the cylinder wall is too deep for an overbore to work?

I can imagine that I will be happy with the EJ20G once I've got some engine management and such, anyway.

*EDIT*
Also, it looks like my EJ22T has the metal oil separator plate. Will this swap over to the EJ20G (plastic)? The screws are really hard to undo... I'm worried I'll strip them. Maybe an autoparts store or a dealership has them in stock?

It will swap right over, but if the plastic one is not showing any signs of cracking or leaking I wouldn't worry about it.

If you have to take it off, use something like this:
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... Driver+Set

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

Another goodie. Coming to the end of the stream of new parts/toys.... :\




Looks like this will be an interesting install.....

Alright. Just put in an order at http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ for some supplies to rebuild my intake. All black silicone, and now they'll all be the right size with some burly t-bolt clamps to hold it together. I'm excited, but I need someone to fabricate one last piece.

Things are falling together now... engine *might* go in this weekend. We'll see. Here are some more cool/shitty photos for you to look at.


Thanks Devan!!!!!!!







Do you guys foresee any timing issues with running spark plug wires that are different lengths? I can't imagine it'd make a huge difference at these short lengths.

No, you shouldn't have any real issues with different length plug wires.

Then I removed some Brembo and Perrin stickers from the rear windows of the car.

A quick update: TD05 arrives tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the engine in this weekend!

Fkyx wrote: Oh yeah... here's a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LJ4vzZg2l0

looks fine to me. lol

keep the thread updated!

how about using the plastic-dip stuff. im going to try that next

kimokalihi wrote:How much does that flywheel weigh? I have a WRX clutchmasters lightweight flywheel but I can't remember what it weighs. I want to say 13 lbs but I'm not sure.

Oh, BTW I finally found the specs on my flywheel. It's 9 lbs It's the lightest flywheel I've been able to find! Wonder how it's gonna feel.

kimokalihi wrote:

kimokalihi wrote:How much does that flywheel weigh? I have a WRX clutchmasters lightweight flywheel but I can't remember what it weighs. I want to say 13 lbs but I'm not sure.

Oh, BTW I finally found the specs on my flywheel. It's 9 lbs It's the lightest flywheel I've been able to find! Wonder how it's gonna feel.

Yeah. Mine is 12lbs... 9lbs seemed too light, but we'll see!

Yeah it worried me a bit but the stock flywheel that came off my EJ20G was super thin and light. Thinner and lighter than any flywheel I've ever handled. Not as light as a lightweight flywheel but pretty light for stock.

Hey guys.


Pardon the mess. It's actually cleaner than it was before we started. Haha.





Again... pardon the mess.



Finally mated!






So here's a big issue. Any suggestions short of buying another intercooler? The TD05's outlet is clocked so that I'd have to make some rather snaky bends (I had already, actually, but they only fit when the engine wasn't in the car).



So a pair of newbies did it. It took us around 2.5 hours, but I'm pretty sure we didn't screw anything up too badly.

I misread the manual, and because of my lack of knowledge and a slight brain fart, I tried to torque one of the pressure plate bolts down at 156 ft-lbs. You can probably guess what happened to that bolt. Pliers and a trip to NAPA fixed it.

We fought with the engine for something like 15 minutes because of a stupid "peg" that my old engine left in the tranny. The EJ20G's peg couldn't go in the hole, so we had to pull the engine out and work the old peg out.

I broke one of the power steering and alternator belt tensioner bolts because I forgot to loosen the other one.

The engine mounts were a pain - they wouldn't match up with the holes. But a little prying and wiggling did the job eventually.

The clutch works.

Now all that's left is the strenuous job of running hoses and checking all of the torques.... and finding a solution to my intercooler problem.

Oh and a question that came up while my friend and I were talking about wasted spark engines: Say I had the injector plugs switched on one bank of cylinders.... what is most likely to happen when I try to start the engine?

Thanks for reading!

Awfully trusting of that ratchet strap! lol!

Nice work man.

The ratchet strap was rated way higher than I figured the engine would weigh when I bought it. Didn't show a single sign of being incapable of holding the engine.

Today I put the radiator back in and picked up some new fuel lines. Really not looking forward to running all of the vacuum lines.........

I present to you.......

....fertilizer hose! lol



No, really. It's fertilizer hose, and it's just temporary until I have the cashes to have some custom crap built.

With this in, all I have left is the following:
-Nightmare vacuum lines
-Coolant lines
-Coolant
-Oil
-Other random shit
-Engine mount nuts
-Torque checks
-Battery reinstall

I really can't wait until I have the time and money to tear it all down and build it back up right.

I got all of the vacuum lines figured out (I think), and ran some more coolant hoses. This means..... well, I'm a pinky away from being finished.

I just have two questions, which are rather embarrassing, but my excuse can be that my brain is shot from studying for finals.

First question:
These are grounds, right?


And uh.... where does the negative battery cable connect to again?

>_<

They're probably grounds.....where's that connector go?

The negative battery cable connects to the chassis and to the long bolt mating the engine & trans near the starter.

Legacy777 wrote:They're probably grounds.....where's that connector go?

Next to the battery where the engine harness connects.

Hmm, I don't is it one behind the battery? Those go to the motor I believe....but that one looks cut up and spliced together.