Mike's 1991 Subaru Legacy SS

[mike-tracy]

So my car has been running poorly for a while now and between work and side work, and spending time with my kid, I haven't had any time to Mess with it. Normal driving was find but as soon as I try to enter boost, the engine stops accelerating. Boost gauge's needle would flutter.

Late last week the CEL finally came on - code 45. This didn't make much sense to me since I was using an MBC, but the bcs was getting vacuum from the manifold and plugged in electrically. Clearing it just made it come back in the first few minutes of driving.

[cj91legss]

Dropping resistor time.

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[SILINC3R]

Haha, don't feel bad I got one on the LGT.

[mike-tracy]

I didn't get to finish my narrative. . So I stopped by the junkyard that's closest to my house, and the one 1st gen legacy there was a 90 AND an auto. Same color as yours Tony. For $5.42 I grabbed that silly resistor, and plugged it in. Plugged in the green and black connectors and started the car (I forgot you had to drive it and go through the gears). Still have the code!

Ah well I have to get to work, I'll deal with it later. But on the way to work, I had boost, sweet glorious boost again! . I'll have to reset the code properly, but my car is running pretty damn good for a change.

[cj91legss]

Awesome!!!

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[Legacy777]

You guys got things mixed up. Code 44 is the wastegate solenoid, which is what the resistor takes care of.

Code 45 is the MAP sensor and pressure exchange solenoid.

[Alphius]

Ha, I should have caught that.
That's what I get for trusting Mike...

I think we should take a look at your pressure solenoid and sensor, and related wiring.

[mike-tracy]

But..but..it runs 100+% better now . OK I admit I boobooed. But alphius, you said you fixed a code 45 with new wiring and a dropping resistor

[Alphius]

That was a few years ago, I actually had a code 44.
I just didn't look at the code chart when we talked about it and took your word for it good buddy.

[mike-tracy]

Lol blame it on me

[Alphius]

Of course.

[CFK]

Hi, Mike. Sorry, I forgot I received a Text from you ! I was in Oregon and din't wanna TXT Long Distance, so I thought I would wait till I hit Canada first, cause Washington would still be long distance if that make's any Sense ! Even if I was standing next to you ! Bananas

Anyway, Sure wish I had that parts car in my driveway still ! Cost me $300, got an EJ22T, A 5MT and a LSD from it which was a sweet deal, but then got rid of it cause it was an eye sore with large Red Penises painted down the side of it.

But the amount of $ I have thrown away on tiny Trim pieces and knick knacks because I only have 1 wrecker locally with a NA AT who wants $100 a piece for the stupidest thing cause nobody wants anything off of it an dim the only Sucker around ! Ridiculous

but ya, I will take a look Might make it out to a cheaper wrecker way out there

[mike-tracy]

Installed that lock cylinder in my driver door, as well as reconnected the two plugs that gave me power locks again.

The lock turns perfectly, but frequently the mechanism (something besides the lock cylinder) binds up, and I won't be able to turn the key all the way. I haven't found a sure fire way of setting it off. Any ideas?

Since I've owned the car I've had issues with that door doing this. 2 owners ago had someone back into the driver door handle. I have a different door on there now, but I brought over the actuators and wiring from old door.

Lastly, when its bound up, the driver side lock won't move unless I push the button hard while pushing on the door. This just affects the driver door.

[Legacy777]

Did you reuse the metal rods that connect to the lock mechanism? If so, those might be bent slightly.

[mike-tracy]

I don't remember. That would make sense - as the rods may have been tweaked when the door got backed into.

[Alphius]

That would be my guess as well.
I would just pull all of the lock and handle rods out of a junkyard car and toss them in your door and see if the problem goes away.

[Legacy777]

Yup.

When I got my car I had to replace the lock cylinder. Well I pulled the lock cylinder and we had to get the car inspected. My mom put the window down, bent the one rod, and popped it out of its place. It was a bitch snapping that rod that goes to the door latch and handle back in place.

The driver's side lock is still a little stiff to turn all the way.

[mike-tracy]

Yeah, I noticed the door lock switch is kind if a 2 position deal -press it quickly to lock/unlock the driver side, lock/unlock everything if you hold it down slightly longer. I love having power locks

Also on the door handle rods, I found the trick to it. The upper rod, aka the impossible to get one, attaches to a stud with a cotter pin through it at the bottom part of the rod. You can pull out the lower rod no problem, and take out the cotter pin from the other one, and then pull the handle with upper rod attached out. Turned what took me 30 mins last time, into a 5 minute job.

[CFK]

Ya after painting my car I reassembled everything, worked once or twice, now I have the exact same problem ! could be bent rods for sure, im gonna grab some new ones...................... After the car has an engine that runs

[Legacy777]

Yup....the "two position" unlock mechanism is pretty cool.

[mike-tracy]

Replaced my mostly broken axle his morning. The trick to doing this easily, is to unbolt the sway bar from the end link, and unbolt both bolts from the strut (marking the upper camber bolt of course to keep the alignment). About a 20 minute job with hand tools if you do it this way.

[Alphius]

That's how I do them too Mike.
If you don't want to possibly affect your alignment you can drop the top three nuts off of the strut hat and leave the strut attached to the spindle. Also disconnecting the swaybar is completely optional, I've done them easily with leaving that connected.

[cj91legss]

Or you can un bolt the joint under the hub at the control arm. One nut/bolt and you have free access to renove the axle.

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[Alphius]

The balljoint? That works sometimes, but sometimes it gets stuck pretty badly and its more work than its worth.

[beatersubi]

Or you can un bolt the joint under the hub at the control arm. One nut/bolt and you have free access to renove the axle.

This is the way I do it and find that its much easier.