legacycentral bbs

hi - I'm wondering if it would be possible to replace the frontmost belt on my 93 Subaru Legacy LS (turbo). Does anything need to be recalibrated? It is the frontmost belt that connects only 2 pulleys. I'm not m,uch of a mechanic, just short on cash and wondering if this is an easy enough job for a moderately handy person to take on. Any instructions on how to do so?

thanks
e

It's easy. Remove the top metal covers over the pulleys on the front of the engine. Then just loosen the top bolt that holds the alternator to the brackets (this will allow it to pivot). Then you'll see the overkill adjustment bolt under the alternator. I believe there are two nuts that need to be loosened then you can adjust the alternator up or down by turning the bolt (too cold to go out and check and my spare engine is missing these parts). I believe the bolt may be left-hand thread, though, so if it doesn't seem to work properly try turning it the opposite way. Once you drop the alternator down enough you can change the belts and reverse the loosening sequence.

To make sure its tight, you should be able to push the belt in about 3/4-1" or so at its longest span. If there's any squealing from the motor after starting or if you notice it in the rain, then the belt just needs to be tightened a little more. I find I sometimes have to retighten the belts after a week or so as I believe they stretch a little and I like to walk the line for minimum tightness.

Steve

ok - Thanks alot for the help Steve! I'm off on my bike down to the parts store to see if they have the belt.

I have another question for you, if you don't mind:

This has eluded my mechanic for three visits, a few hundred dollar, a new coil pack, a temp. sensor, a 12 pack of bud, and alot of flying wrenches I'm told...

The problem was, when I started off for work in the morning, when I first encountered a long hill, or getting up to speed on the highway as I accelerated, the motor would lose power, and usually I had to pull over while the engine idled very roughly (almost violently) until it smothed out again. This would happen pretty much every day, to and from work, usually when the car wasn't warmed up yet. As of the last visit, it doesn't happen every day, but still does happen on the highway at times. I don't think he knows what the problem really is, and it's a bit worrysome.

Any ideas what to look into - other ppl have this problem? I'd be happy to provide any details if anyone can help. I've been searching the forums, and will keep doing so...

thanks again,
e

hey Steve,

I just noticed you're in Beverly, MA. I'm in Watertown...maybe you know a good mechanic around here? Or want to trade Subaru advice for some beers or something? I really like this car, but I think I'm gonna have to learn a bit about it in order to keep it (running).

crap - no belts at Auto Zone. I'll have to call around in the morning. Maybe it will be warmer then...

You will learn two things about BC-BF Legacies:

1) They're super easy to work on!
2) Parts are not exactly easy to find...

Good luck!

Sounds like you've got hesitation. I'm pretty sure we've all had it in one way, shape, or form. Some are cured by a new alternator, some new plugs, or wires, or sensors or for me a new maf. The best advice would be to pull some codes See what comes up, then clear the codes, drive around for a while and check again. The ecu will store keep old codes even if the problem has been fixed. Good luck

A temporary rough idle isn't typically part of the usual hesitation, though...

One thing that I notice -- acceleration or going up a hill means the car tilts back a little. Could it be that you have crud in your fuel tank? Maybe you should pull the pump and examine the "sock" it sucks through.

Usually if I get a problem like that, I change the fuel filter and it's fine.

Auto Zone sucks for Subaru parts, actually all auto parts places up here are terrible. Auto Zone doesn't even list the Legacy on their oil filter guide. I'm lucky when I find them at Pep Boys. And I won't even talk about my adventure to find 10mm x 1.25 x 120mm bolts to mount my engine to the stand! Damn Subaru and their weird pitch!

My mechanic is great and hates to spend other people's money (a good and rare quality). He's Phil who owns Beverly Foreign Auto, but that's probably a little too much of a trip from Watertown if the car will be there all day. If you do want to check him out, I could give directions. It's real easy to get to even if you don't know the area.

I have no problem trading Subaru advice, although there are plenty of other people who know way more than I do. Vrg3, for instance, is maniac!

It's good to meet someone here who's pretty close by.

Steve

On the subject of MAF's I've had lots of problems. I've been told that seeing black smoke coming from your tailpipe is a pretty good indication of a bad MAF. Also, when mine went out, I was unable to exceed 35 over any passes or significant hills. I would get horrable performance when trying to push it and even had power cut in and out.

I never had a rough idle really, and I also never had a problem like your describing were you had to pull over and wait for the car to "settle down." I sappose a rough idle could be had if it is really bad, though, being that without it your car won't run. <shrug>

Oh, I also had black smoke coming out of my tailpipe, I never saw it, but a friend following me over a pass did.

All in all, I don't know if the problem your having is the maf, plus it is an expensive part to buy just to "see" if it might fix it.

Just thought I'd add some insight, experience and hopefully help isolate it, unless you are haveing several of the problems I've mentioned before. I would check some of the other things that have been mentioned first.

Oh, and all those problems were in my GL-10, not my legacy.

Auto Zone sucks for Subaru parts, actually all auto parts places up here are terrible.

ok - I'm taking the morning off to find a belt, and I figure I'm better off calling around - any suggestions?

My mechanic is great and hates to spend other people's money (a good and rare quality).

Well, that's why I keep bringing the car back to this guy, I think they're really good people - the last time I picked it up he didn't even take any money. I had to pester him for 3 weeks to write up a bill so I could pay him (which only came to $300 for 2 days work).

georryan: although the car is much better off than it was before, it still does this thing occasionally, and my mechanic thought the MAF (I think that's what he said) would be the next thing to try, but wanted to hold off because of cost. It is some sort of computer part? Maybe I can find one in a junkyard?

Steve: Know any good junkyards in the area?

again - thank you all for the help! very glad to have found this board

well, seems i really don't know what I'm doing. Installed the new belt, tightened it to where I *thought* it should be, started her up, and lot's of white smoke! turned off, loosened the alternator, started up, more smoke, and squealing! and now the belt is melted to the alternator pulley...

I called AAA.

can I learn anything from this???

Whoa! Sounds like you put it way too loose. If you loosen the alternator again, you can probably scrape out the belt remains. You want to make sure it's really tight. It may seem like you're hurting the car, but she'll be OK. I did the same thing the first time I ever did a belt. You should only be able to push the belt in a little bit in the middle of the longest span (probably between the alternator and crank or the power steering pump and crank).

Not many of these cars are in junkyards up here, the ones that are are usually wrecks and stripped anyway. There is Millis Auto in Millis, MA that has a turbo engine sans turbo for $500. (It was the alternative place I was going to hit for my engine, but went with a place in ME instead.) The guy I spoke to there has a Legacy turbo, and I would guess they have a good selection of parts there for N/A, too.

Steve

Here's what I do. Since our cars aren't brand spanking new anymore, on the alternator adjusting bolt, the long one that you tighten to tighten the belt, there should be some discoloration from age. Discoloration except where the bracket has sat for however long. It will be nice and shiny there. That means you know exactly where the bracket was before you touched it. When tightening that bolt down, I always tighten it until that bracket matches with that clean spot... Never had so much as a peep from my belts any time I've messed with them...

When you go to put on another belt, take a straight edge, and place it ontop the alt pulley and the power steering pulley(the one on the passangers side). Then place a ruler perpendicular to the straight edge about the middle of the belt. Push down on the ruler and see how much flex you have.

well, i took the belt out altogether and drove it down to a mechanic down the street (who says he used to work for subaru) one turn of the alternator pulley and he said that was seized - there's my problem...I hope.

so much for a quick fix - i do own a nice new set of sockets tho

That'll do it! I was wondering why it smoked enough to melt...didn't think about that.

Steve

subyluvr2212 wrote:Here's what I do. Since our cars aren't brand spanking new anymore, on the alternator adjusting bolt, the long one that you tighten to tighten the belt, there should be some discoloration from age. Discoloration except where the bracket has sat for however long. It will be nice and shiny there. That means you know exactly where the bracket was before you touched it. When tightening that bolt down, I always tighten it until that bracket matches with that clean spot... Never had so much as a peep from my belts any time I've messed with them...

That's what I did when I had to change my alternator. So its true that great minds think alike!

does anybody have an idea of what an alternator should cost for a 93 legacy turbo wagon? I just got quoted 299 for a remanufactured one, and it took him 24 hours to get that price to me...

Was the 299 with, like, a $50 core charge? That sounds excessive, but they are over $200 all said and done. Times like that I miss my old GL's - the alternator was under $50. I'm not sure on the exact price since I still have my original alternator at 230K mi.

Steve

http://subaru-engine-parts.com/leg_4wdt ... parts.html

click alternator

thanks Brat - I saw that too....makes me wonder. And another price on Lappens was. It took this guy 24+ hours to tell me the price of 299, it took my usual mecanic 2 minutes to tell me he could get it for 220. I hope that's no indication of how long it will actually take to change it.

Got a rebuilt alternator from Kragen for around 140$ US. Mine melted down prior to that, and I barely made it to the shop running on battery power! It was the most god awful electronics burning smell you can imagine.

I got mine from Napa for about the same price. Install is SUPER easy on Subaru's as it sits right on top of the engine.

-Brian