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When doing a brake job recently, I got under my car and took a good look at the front axles... and found three out of four boots torn. My CV joints haven't been clicking or anything, and the grease inside seemed okay still (not gritty or anything), so I just cleaned them out and filled and coated them with gobs and gobs of grease to hold me until I can replace the shafts.

So, anyway, to get back to the topic -- can I put axles meant for a FWD Legacy in my 1993 Legacy Turbo AWD? I did a search and found this information:

FormView says there are differences in the axles, and you can count the stripes to determine which you have:

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 1183#31183

Josh says FWD axles are larger in diameter, and that they have 3 marks on them as opposed to the 2 that AWD axles have (are these the "stripes?"):

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=601#601

IggDawg says AutoZone gave him an axle that was heavier than his stock axle:

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=1769#1769

subyluvr2212 says the CVAxles.com gave him FWD axles for his AWD because they're beefier:

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=9498#9498

Am I interpreting all this correctly to mean that FWD axles will fit on my car and actually be stronger, though heavier? I do understand that typically people don't have trouble with the axles' strength (usually the problem is that a boot tears and grit gets into the CV joints), but still. All the hardware is the same (spline count, axle nut thread, spring pin size, etc)?

Thanks.

correct, FWD axles will fit on an AWD car.

Hehe... my wordiness and your conciseness contrast greatly. :)

Thanks, Josh.

hehe.....no prob....my only issue with cvaxles.com is their boots don't seem as thick as the OEM boots......but oh well....

Hmm... maybe I could buy an el cheapo axle and put a quality boot on it before installing it...

Does anyone have recommendations on a good quality aftermarket boot? Or a good place to buy OEM boots affordably?

just get the whole axles.....much easier

Yes they do. I have the best evidence for it. I got 2WD axles for mine, and one of them started leaking grease. So I sent it back and got a 4WD in return. So I currently have a 2WD axle on the right front and a 4WD on the left front And yes, it bothers me... I plan on pulling a Josh and probably get another 2WD axle soon to ease my mind

My firm belief is that fooling around with the joints is not worth it. Simply swapping the axle is far more efficient with respect to time savings...

Cool, thanks for the data point.

I'm kind of anxious about the axle replacement process... seems like a lot of you guys have done it without too much difficulty, and the "how to" explanations seem pretty clear, but I still don't think I have a clear idea of how it will go. It'll probably make sense as soon as I start to pull the old axle, though. I'll just make sure to bring a 10-foot steel pipe to use as a breaker bar for the axle nut.

If I can do it, you can do it

Really, everything is intuitive, just take your time with that spring pin in the tranny stub. Learn it well as you hammer it out, and put a new one in. They're ridiculously easy to work with, it's just that people don't know what exactly to do, that's why they get screwed up so much... Remember that you can put the axle on either way, and hammer the pin in from either way. I've done it every way imaginable... Just make double sure the holes are lined up and you're set... And I advise getting a screwdriver that uses bits. That empty socket in the screwdriver is EXCELLENT for stabilizing the pin as you hammer it in...

vrg3 and Legacy777, good luck when you do them...

Thanks for the advice, subyluvr2212... I'm not so worried about the spring pin part -- that seems very logical to me -- but about the part nearer the hub. That's the part that's a little less clear to me.

So basically I can either separate the balljoint from the hub, or unbolt the strut from the hub? Either one allows the hub to move enough to allow the axle to be removed? Does the balljoint just push apart with a balljoint separator or with a prybar? I'd rather not risk losing my camber settings.

And does pulling the axle out of the transmission after removing the spring pin expose some gear oil seals on the transmission that should be replaced? It wasn't clear to me... it sounds kind of like the axles are attached to stubs on the transmission (and that's what the spring pins are for), and pulling the stubs exposes the oil seals, but I wasn't sure.

How do you force the axle back into the splines on the hub? Do you remove the brakes and pound on the hub with a mallet or something?

Sorry for the deluge of questions... :)

vrg3 wrote:So basically I can either separate the balljoint from the hub, or unbolt the strut from the hub?

I've always done the balljoint, it just seems easier and i've never had a problem.

Either one allows the hub to move enough to allow the axle to be removed?

Not sure, but the balljoint does for sure.

Does the balljoint just push apart with a balljoint separator or with a prybar?

I always have used a prybar, works great for me.

And does pulling the axle out of the transmission after removing the spring pin expose some gear oil seals on the transmission that should be replaced? .... it wasn't clear to me... it sounds kind of like the axles are attached to stubs on the transmission

It does expose a seal, i've never had to replace them, but if they are leaking you should, the axles mount exactly how you think.

How do you force the axle back into the splines on the hub? Do you remove the brakes and pound on the hub with a mallet or something?

You actually won't gain any clearance by removing the brakes, i use a mallet to hit the axle through.

MK

Thanks for answering my questions.

So no nuts/bolts involved in separating the ball joints?

You pound on the axle, not the hub? Do you mean you hammer from the inboard side?

opps, yeah, that info would help I was thinking you were talking about getting the axles out of the hub. To get it back in jsut makes ure everything is clean, put the axle in, and use the axle nut to tighten everyhtign up. This is how i've done it every time, and so far no problems.

There is one bolt on the balljoint, it goes into the hub, you will definitely see it when you take a look at the balljoint.

MK

Okay, I take the bolt out of the hub that clamps down on the balljoint. Then stick some kind of lever (I find that a breaker bar seems to be the best type) in between the hub and the control arm. Then have at the lever with a hammer and the balljoint will pop out of the hub. It may take one hit, it may take a hundred... all depends on condition of parts in that area...

Now you have enough room to pull the axle out. I have never had to do anything special getting the axle out of the hub, usually a light tap with a hammer will break it loose, and then it slides out... The new axle also slides in nice and easy. Ohhhhh, how I wish the 4-lug Subarus were this easy

Those seals in the transmission are NOT home-mechanic friendly. I thought you could just pry the old one out and put the new in, much like any other seal. But noooo, you have to do far more than that. I screwed my seals up and had to pay the dealer $450 to replace them Bottom line, if they're not pouring oil all over the place, DON'T mess with them!!!