legacycentral bbs

What besides the engine is different from the turbo'd vs. the non turbo'd legacy. The reason being I'm having trouble getting a title for my turbo so I'm going to buy a non turbo with a clean title to put the engine in. Im sure I need to swap computers also but am I missing anything else that is relevant?

Thanks,

Mike

UPDATED 7/18/03
I have aquired the title from the original owner. He was kind enough to sign it over to me and also write me up a bill of sale stating I paid $100 for it. Thanks for the differences on the N/A vs. the turbo but I wont be doing the swap any longer.

Thanks again,

Mike

the brake rotors and calipers aren't the same and I think the suspension on the turbo is tuned a bit better also

front grill & bumper

The engine wiring is a little different. The cam and crank angle sensors are switched and of course there is the wiring for the pressure sensor, pressure exchange solenoid, and wastegate control solenoid. This may take a little work to wire in correctly, but shouldn't be too bad.

The suspension is indeed different. I don't have any clear information on whether or not the springs or struts are different, but the general consensus is that they are. The antiroll bars are bigger. These should swap over fairly easily, but you'll want a 4 wheel electronic alignment afterwards.

The rear brakes are definitely different. The front brakes may or may not be -- I think at least some Legacies that came with 15" alloy wheels used the same front brakes as the turbos. Front and rear brakes are an easy swap.

Like morgie says, the front grill and bumper are different, and so is the rear deck lid (because it has a spoiler). And, the hood has the scoop and plate that fits with the turbo chimney. These aren't too hard to switch, but it's all cosmetic except for the hood with scoop.

The air conditioning system has some different parts. For example, the pipe going along the passenger side firewall in the engine bay has a bend in it to go around the turbocharger. I don't know if there is an issue of actual touching or if they just wanted to keep the pipe away from heat, so I don't know if you'd have to switch it. If you do, you'll have to have the systems discharged and then charged back up. You'd probably also want to retrofit it for R-134a instead of R-12, so this could add up to a lot of work.

The fuel pump is different, since it has to flow more. That's easy to switch.

The transmissions are different too -- both the automatic and manuals arebasically just built tougher, but the manual also has a different clutch design using a hydraulic pull-type clutch rather than a cable-operated push-type (or maybe I have pull and push backwards). I would presume you'd be swapping your whole drivetrain in, not just the engine, right? You may need to swap rear differentials too, if the ratios don't match up.

That's all I can think of at the moment...

jesus, sounds like an assload of work. I need to get the damn title for my turbo!!!!!!!

Mike

Sawzall vin numbers out of NA and super glue into Turbo. All done. Do a good job with the super glue .

why are you having trouble getting a title???

Its a long story, but I bought the car "for parts" with no title from a bone yard. It used to be in Rhode Island that you didn't need a title to register a car over 10 years of age but they changed the law so I need one now. It is much more complicated but I cant really get into it.

Mike

i had a turbo..once...lets not talk about the damage done to it, but i did have one...
anyway, i stripped it out after the roll...
the tranny is indeed different than a regular 5mt...the front calipers are dual pot piston calipers...regular na 2.2l scoob'y come with single pot calipers...and 15" rims
and the wiring harness is different...however, i never put the motor and tranny in another car, i just sold the combo....
struts, i did not notice anything different....they fit perfectly in my 90L...
sway bars, seemed the same, but i never took a set of verniers to them...
my $.02 of info
Sam

the charcoal canister on a turbo has 3 lines, and the NA only has 2. the extra line on the turbo has a pressure activated chack valve that breaks easily :rolleyes: .

the whole exhaust is wider and whatnot. don't know if you're including that in "the engine." obvious, yes. but thought I'd mention

certainly, the infamous crossmember would have to be switched out with the engine. or your turbo will have nothing to sit on

and, as has been mentioned, lots of different wiring.

I'd reccommend picking up the haynes manual if oyu don't have one already. in the fuel and emmissions section they just happen to have schematics of some vacuum tube, fuel/emissions, and wiring systems side by side between the 2 different engines. jsut make sure you get all the little stuff.

if the interior color is the same, just switch the panel the vin number is on, and hope they dont check the other ones.