legacycentral bbs

My 95 started ticking and the source was just as I thought. It was the lifters.

I left it in the hands of my mechanic, who said it wasn't much of a problem.

Question:

How can I prevent this in the 94 Turbo? Is there anyway? Is it a problem, or will it become one?

Thanks

Do a search on this, but this is a common Subaru trait. As British car owners would call it, its a 'personality trait'. It should go away after a short time and shouldn't cause a problem.

Steve

Change your oil often. If its already happened you may need to bleed or replaced them.

Was that post about "solving your ticking with a cool glass of water" pertinent to this question? I can't remember if it was a fix for noisy lifters or not.

That post was for getting carbon buildup out of the cylinders. The ticking they were talking about was pinging.

You will probably have to get new hydraulic valve lash adjusters if you already hear it. Chances are it's too late just for an oil change to solve it...

It started like 100 miles ago, if that. I've been changing the oil regularly, every 3k to 3500 for the past 2 years.

Mine does it every once in a while for a few seconds at start up and goes away. I use Mobil 1 and tried different weights (0-10) - no difference. I wouldn't worry about it unless it does it all the time.

Steve

My 93 turbo ticked like that for a few minutes on very cold mornings. After I ran some Sea Foam through the intake and in the crankcase it seems to do it less -- it requires colder temperatures to make it happen, and it goes away quicker. I didn't leave the stuff in the crankcase; I added it, idled for a while, and then changed the oil.

Just because you dont hear the noise doesnt mean its okay. Your valves arent opening the way they should and you loose performance.

Yeah, I have been meaning to find some time to check my lifters. But isn't it possible that running some Sea Foam through the lubrication system would resolve the problems of low pressure at the lifters when cold?

ciper, can you quickly explain what the bleeding process is? I know that check for air bubbles by pulling off the valve cover and trying to press on the lifters by hand (air bubbles make it possible to push them), but how do you bleed them?

You submerge them upright in oil then press the center with a rod to get the air bubbles out.
Its a one way valve with a ball.

I see... A wooden dowel would probably be best, right, since it wouldn't mar the ball bearing?

Do the lifters come out easily? Like, are they each held in with 1 or 2 bolts? Or do you have to remove the whole valve rocker assembly first?

I would just try a paper clip.

Yeah you have to remove the rockers, but once off they slide right out.

It's an easy job of removing them. Just pull the covers and the rockers come off wqith a few bolts and the lifters are off the ends. I'm not even bothering to replace mine on my kitchen engine as I need to save the money abnd it'll be easy enough to fix later oif necessary.

Steve

I only ever had HLA noise once and it was on a very, very cold morning. It only lasted about 15 seconds too.

I've heard Legacy's that had it a lot though and it made 'em sound like diesels.

I had some ticking with my valves not too long ago at 140k miles. Oil change plus a bottle of Slick 50 did the trick for me. 5k later and no re-occurrance.

-mike

Why did you use slick 50? I suggest changing your oil and filter again to get rid of that crap.

Why is Slick 50 crap? I never used it but I heard it is good. What about Dura Lube??? Had one in the engine for 3000 km. Now I have put 1L of Lucas and regular oil. Does anyone has any knowledge of Lucas and our engines?

About hla..can you do the job easyly with the engine in the car??? And can you change the valve seals as well? I mean at the same time.

I keep loosing oil...1 L every 1000 miles. And I try to eliminate couses. I wanna change the valve seals, after that do the timming and change the seals 3 front 1 back on passanger side...although I'd like to change the main seal in the back. I hope that would help...
My compresion is in between 147 and 153 what is good I think. So I dont really suspect the piston rings. Any ways...this is for another thread but I could use any help. Thx guys.

I don't know anything specific about Slick 50, Dura Lube, or Lucas oil treatments, but it seems to me that it would be better to get an oil that already has all the good additives in it, mixed in proportions that engineers spent years perfecting. Good motor oil already has countless additives in it, and it seems like adding a third-party additive has the potential to upset the balance. Like I said, though, I haven't tried any additives except for the occasional hundred miles of Sea Foam before an oil change.

If by "valve seals" you mean the valve cover gaskets, those can be done with the engine in the car. The lifters can also be removed while the engine is in the car with the valve covers off.

If you actually mean the valve guide seals that keep oil out of the combustion chamber, those require disassembly of the heads I believe.

I agree with you about the balance of the oil...but being away of sweet and expensive european ARAL and having no good knowledge of american oils...I took advices from old mechanics that said to use DuraLube or lucas


2 I meant the valve guid seals.