legacycentral bbs

So I'm in the process of doing preventive maintenance and servicing to my car. I've completely changed out all intake components so there are no cracks (even the $70 rubber turbo inlet piece! ARRRGGGHHH!!!).

Here's some other maintenance work that's been done lately.

1. Spark plugs and wires
2. Oil change
3. Fuel filter
4. Air filter cleaning/re-oiling
5. Fuel filter
6. Timing belt/waterpump/coolant change
7. Oil pump was changed about 40,000 miles ago.
8. All seals changed about 50,000 miles ago.

Which leaves me with the following:
1. pcv valve, replace hoses, clean out pcv attachment pieces
2. clutch
3. Brakes - rotor/pad/fluid change
4. Power steering fluid
5. Clutch fluid (and hookup my stainless line)
6. Tranny/rear diff flush
7. Flush radiator, fill with water wetter (possibly relocate/replace coolant expansion tank with non-painted wrx unit).

I also have an oil pressure and water temp gauge on the way and should be hooking those up this weekend, as a precautionary measure. During this precess I will try to cleanup the underdash wiring as best as I can and tighten up the connections into the harnesses. I'm gonna also try and hookup a wrx intercooler shroud to improve flow to the intercooler (as best I can with the stock hood scoop). Finally, engine harnesses wires are a "want to do" but I'm not sure if I can tackle it.

Can anyone think of anything else that I could do to get this car in tip top shape (without breaking open the engine)? I want this thing to be 100% by spring time!

I also just picked up some SeaFoam, so I'll be Foamin the crap outta the engine!

you've got almost everything covered already but you might want to do your power steering fluid and clutch fluid as well as cleaning up all your ground wire contacts which should make everything nice and smooth

good luck!

Thanks man! I added your comments to my list so I won't forget. Hehe, I almost forgot about the stainless clutch line that I have sitting in the basement.

"9. Tranny fluid/rear diff fluid flushed 40,000 miles ago. "
Do it again

Watter wetter

Remove all the PCV hoses and clear them out along with PCV replacement

Grab new pads and get your rotors turned locally, I found someone at Big-O that does them for 10$ each. Consider paying someone for a brake flush (because its a pain in the ass).

Last but not least, Italian tune up

Added.

Believe me, the car gets an Italian tune up at least 5-10 times per day

I wish I had a "Big-O," but I've never heard of that around here. I've got some new rear rotors and pads and will probably try to get the fronts turned with some new pads. I also have something like 4 cans of Motul sitting the in basement for the flush . . . yes, it will suck.

Why will the brake fluid flush suck?

Because it takes alot of time, its easy to make a mess, and easy to not do correctly.

You can pay someone to do it for around 40$

I heard the viscous rear LSD fluid is for the life of the car. That it shouldn't, or doesn't have to ever be replaced. I know open diffs are changed every 50000 km's or so, with regular manual tranny/diff fluid.

Mark,

You misunderstand.

There are TWO seperate fluids in a viscous differential. The wearable 75w-90 gear oil for lubrication of parts and the lifelong viscous coupling goop.

brake fluid flush takes me about 15 minutes to do. It's really not that hard. Just suck all the old fluid out of the MC with a turkey baster. Put new stuff in. Bleed brakes in the proper order. If you put a piece of clear hose over the bleeder in a bottle you're fine. Little to no mess. Just make sure you don't run your MC low.

whats the difference between a brake fluid flush and bleeding the brakes?

Legacy777, I think I remember you were going to use that Sea Foam stuff on your car. I was looking at the old posts from a guy on here (can't remember his name but I don't think he's on this board anymore) who did this and hooked up the Sea Foam through the pcv valve.

Is this where you ended up running it?

And should I run it actually through the valve into the manifold, and then plug the connection going to the back of the block?

When the engine is idling you can leave the PCV hose disconnected for a short while without hurting anything. Just make sure no debris falls into it.

I used a nylon 1/4" NPT 3/16" hose barb. I threaded it in place of the PCV valve and attached a hose to it that I dipped into the cup of Sea Foam.

Is the valve open under vaccum? The label on the container says it'll clean the pcv valve too. I'm just wondering how it would clean the valve without the valve being installed?

i did it through the pcv valve. just take the rubber hose thats attached to it and flip it upside sown and youve got a semi decent funnel

The valve is open a little under vacuum. It's a weird setup. If I understand it, the stronger the engine pulls gas through it, the further it closes. So at idle is when it's furthest closed, but it's never fully closed.

I just replaced the valve after I finished. A brand new valve is pretty clean and costs less than $2.50 at Advance.

THAWA wrote:whats the difference between a brake fluid flush and bleeding the brakes?

Nothing really.....same thing.....except maybe people that just bleed brakes don't suck the old fluid out of the resevoir. That's a standard thing for me if I'm bleeding brakes and haven't bled them in a while because the fluid in the resevoir collects water.

I ran the sea foam through the PCV valve. I simply took the normal hose off the pcv valve.....hooked up a length of hose to the valve.....started the car........then slowly poured a little bit of the seafoam down the hose, which went into the valve.

The PCV isn't technically open all the way, but it still will draw a vacuum and suck the sea foam in. Since it's going through the PCV valve.....i'd say it's cleaning it.

The other cleaning you can do with it, is when you pour it into the crankcase......in this form it's like vicks vapor rub for your engine.

I just did the Sea Foam treatment per Legacy777s instructions. I'd pour a little in, engine would stumble a bit, then pour some more in, until I finished 1/3 pint. Let the car sit turned off for a little bit while I poured another 1/3 pint into the crankcase. Finally, finished off the bottle with the remaining 1/3 pint.

Smoked a cig while waiting and then fired her up.

DAMN!! I thought my idle and engine performance were decent before, but the results from this "cleaning" are incredible. Engine runs soooo much smoother!!

Taking Sea Foam treatment off my list "to dos."

Legacy777: Thats not true with most shops. Bleeding the brakes means checking for air. Flushing means new fluid reaches the brakes.

guess I'm not most shops then

I've gotta find a Canadian supplier of that Sea Foam stuff...

mikec wrote:I've gotta find a Canadian supplier of that Sea Foam stuff...

Any Chrysler dealership will have it. It's in the Jeep Service manual, IIRC.

Boostjunkie - Your car is jaw droppingly fast man! I was smiling ear to ear.

I'll have to grab a bottle of Seafoam next week and give it a shot. I get a bit of hesitation, but that's hard to really tell just driving through my neighborhood. Can't hurt though. This weekend I'll be snorkusectifying my intake and seafoaming the engine to see what goes. Should smooth out my idle. Maybe I'll get it to my mechanic to get checked over and order up my rotors, pads, and engine/tranny/pitch stop mount (Group N).

Chrysler dealership eh...

I emailed seafoam and they said they don't sell in canada...

I haven't gotten around to asking NAPA or Carquest if they can get it in though.

"Seafoam, the offical marine engine cleaner for Legacy owners everywhere"