legacycentral bbs

I Found a 1992 Legacy Turbo. Its a 5spd AWD and it has a bad clutch. How difficult would it be to replace the cluch on these things? I'm used to smaller engines like the Subaru EA81 and the 8.5" clutches they use. How much larger are these clutches? and how much harder is it to replace them?

Would it be easier to drop the transmission or lift the engine?

-Brian

My mechanic prefers pulling the engine, though I've heard people going the other way. subyluvr has done this recently.

I come from EA81s myself.

Steve

I dropped the tranny to replace my clutch (then dropped it again to fix the bad bearing retainer clip).

MK

How difficult is it to drop the transmission. is it just a basic 5spd or are there a bunch of complicated things in the way?

Thanks guys

-Brian

Is the 5spd in the EJ22T the same as any old EJ22's 5spd? and do they share the same clutch and assembly?

And if i decide to replace the clutch myself, can anyone recommend a good place to start searching for one?

-Brian

to drop tranny:
disconnect exhaust, turbo back
remove tunnel heatsheild
disconnect driveshaft, at rear diff, and center bearing (wire/ziptie the driveshaft to stay in the shaft input, so tranny fluid doesnt escape)
unplug wire harness
remove front wheels
pop out balljoints
remove halfshafts
remove starter(disconnect battery)
unbolt slave cylinder
remove motor mount bolts
tilt back motor
remove shift linkage
remove nuts and bolts holding tranny to motor
remove tranny mount



I put a tiny amount of grease on the crankshaft splines, when putting the clutch back on. And go ahead and replace the end seal while your in there.

with pnumatic tools, on the floor, I usually can do the whole thing in about 5hrs

I just got a new set of pneumatic tools too Time to break them in. I assume being a Subaru it uses the standard Metric sockets.

Is it necessary to remove the CV's or could I just disconnect them from the tranny end? Everything seems pretty cut and chase.

Another question, sorta offtopic... but should I worry that the engine has 265k on it? On the test drive the engine spooled up real smooth, and it seemed as if it had absolutly no turbo lag. But with a failing clutch it was slipping more.

-Brian

Hey Brian, glad to see you on the board!

Yeah, I just got done with my AWD tranny RandR. Definitely some lessons learned, that's for sure.

Now my Legacy is nonturbo, so I have the cable clutch, what you should know backwards and forwards with EA81's-EA82's. Your Turbo, though, has a hydraulic clutch. If I'm looking at my Haynes manual correctly, you can unbolt the slave cylinder from the tranny and move it aside with the hose attached so you keep the system sealed.

You need to find a way to jack the front of the engine up slightly to make the tranny removal easier. Subaru supposedly makes a special tool that fits in place of the pitching stopper, but that tool is a unicorn of sorts, I couldn't find it anywhere. I just put a block of wood under the oil pan and jacked it up that way.

There are only 5 bolts that hold the engine and tranny together, thankfully. Two of them are related to the starter, there is one on the top right of the bellhousing, and there are the two bottom ones. That's it.

You can just take the axles off the transmission, that's what I did, but they got in the way so much that I think it might be best to just remove them altogether. The axle just slides in and out of the hub, unlike a 4-lug Subie model.

As for the actual clutch disc replacement, I can't help you there. I pulled mine out because the clutch fork came off of the throwout bearing. I wouldn't be surprised if the procedure for that is similar to other Scoobs though.

And I wouldn't worry about an EJ22T with 256k on it. As long as it keeps oil and coolant out of the cylinders and compression in them, rest assured. It's a bulletproof motor.

Thanks for the info. The CV's should be a sinch to remove then... is the castle nut at the end of the rotor still 36mm?

-Brian

No, it's smaller, someone help me out here I have an inkling to say 32mm...

Yeah, mine were 32mm.

1 1/2" is 31.75mm, though, and some people have said the had to use a 1 1/2" socket because a 32mm kept slipping off.

I used a 32mm last weekend on my '92.

32mm it is. like i needed another $12 socket to add to my collection

I took the car to my mechanic today. he's going to have a new clutch in it by tomorrow. He quoted me $950 total for parts and labor. That includes 7.5hrs of labor at a reduced labor rate. Hopefully he'll get it done sooner and save me some $$$$, but if not... then hey, at least i'll have a new clutch in the car and be able to actually use all the power that car makes.

-Brian

Dont try to use an impact gun on them. Most often the best tool is this
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... 0904443000

With two 4 foot pipes and two people can easily get it off without dammage to the nut. Equal rotational pressure far greater than any impact gun.

What clutch are you using? $950 sounds kind of expensive, but I've only replaced the clutch in a domestic (my truck. Parts and labor were $700 even).

That's funny Bac, but the car I almost bought that I thought was yours has a new clutch and the guy was telling me it was $900 to instal and that was his excuse for not coming down on the price. My mechanic says he does it cheaper as its quicker to pull the engine (according to him).

Steve

Seems to me that it shouldn't cost more than 650 or so.

I need to contact the previous owner and see if the clutch is new or not. I might just get it replaced when I get all of the seals replaced in the engine (since it'll have to be out anyway). Feels pretty good, but then again, I haven't driven the car more than a few hundred miles, and that's just around the neighborhood.

Last Months SCC (where they do the EJ20 swap into a Legacy) even tell you how to get everything out of the car. If they can do it in the garage with an engine hoist and some blocks of wood, then it seems like it can't be to hard.

These engines are very easy to pull.

Steve

I got quoted $390 for the clutch kit and parts, and 7.5 hours at $75/hr labor. Hopefully the job wont take that long... i cant imagine a proffesional with the propper tools taking that long, but if it does then sobeit. These engines are ALOT different than the old EA81's im used to working on, and i dont mind paying $$$ for quality service. Of course, i coulda gone to clutchmart and spent $600, but knowing the guys there i'd prolly end up with a clutch for a EJ22 or something and everything would be screwed.

If the castle nut is a tru 32mm and not SAE then an impact wrench should do absolutly no damage to the nut. I have a 36" Craftsman Breaker bar though, and i use that for all my CV's

-Brian

Yeah, its a little more complicated than an EA81. I think you could pull the motor with a wrench and hold it in one hand as you change the clutch blindfolded with the other. I had my doubts as I loved those EA engines so much, but these EJ engines are really excellent and not hard to work on - just not as lawn mower simple as the EA81. I;d still love to get an '84 hardtop and convert it to electronic ignition and this...



Steve

You'll never find one of those engines in the US. Other than that pic, ive only seen 1 other engine like it... and it was a pic i found from Australia. The S marked on the valve cover indicates that engine is of a special design. Radical cam's, dual intake and exhaust ports, of course those dual webers aren't the average 2bbl hitachi.
This being my 1st EJ makes it very difficult for me. I bought the car to make it my daily driver to replace the 84. The 84 has since become less reliable after i put the lift on it, and then repeatily beat it up every weekend off-road, camping and fishing. The '84 will now sit in the garage, and i'll start to rebuild it from the ground up... meaning i will have less time to work on the legacy.

Plus, im sure the EJ isnt as light as the EA's are. An EA81 with no oil or coolant weighs alittle over 130lbs. I'd hate to see what this EJ weighs...

-Brian

Its not too bad. A friend and I carried a turbo engine with the turbo attached from my car to the kitchen. I'd say maybe 300 loaded. Put it in my wagon and the springs barely dropped. If my sister (small) and her lesbian (fat) sit in the back there's a lot more spring deflection than with the engine and I'd say they total about 320.

Yeah, I wondered where the dual port heads on that EA came from. I thought maybe they were custom machined or something. Shoot, maybe it'll be too difficult to do, then. Those poor damn engines couldn't breathe at all. I suppose I can always put an EJ in - stock N/A would make double the power.

Steve

evolutionmovement wrote:If my sister (small) and her lesbian (fat) sit in the back there's a lot more spring deflection than with the engine and I'd say they total about 320.

I can't believe you really said that...

Why not? Its the best weight reference I can think of to compare it to.

Steve

I just thought it was funny as hell