legacycentral bbs

I have a 95 legacy wagon and it started grinding on my way to work today. How tough of a driveway job is this? The parts are cheap enough. Any info or online article would be a great help. Thanks...Jim

Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to an hour.

Just a matter of unbolting a few things and swapping them out. Pull the wheel, unbolt the caliper, unbolt the rotor (I think it's 2 14mm nuts holding it down) swap out the good stuff and work backwards.

Got a Haynes manual?

Actually, the rotor is held on by the wheels lug nuts. Once you have the wheel and caliper removed they should pop right off. If they stick, you can use a piece of wood held flat against the rotor and smack it with a hammer moving in a star pattern.

I can change pads and rotors in about 20 minutes per corner. It's really easy. The first time you do it it may take a little longer just because you'll be reading and double checking yourself. Get a Haynes manual, it's a worthy investment if you plan on working on your car yourself. It's good for most jobs but just remember, the Haynes manual is not the gospel, there are quite a few discrepencies (spelling?)in it.

Really? I've never done a job on a Subaru before. I recall Ciper telling me that the rotors were held on with 2 14mm bolts. He might have been talking about another car though.

He was probably talking about the two 14 mm blots that hold the caliper on... Once those are off, the rotor should practically fall off.

Andrew

That might be what he was talking about. Like I said, I've done rotors, but not on a Subaru.

It's a very easy job. Actually, the most time consuming process is jacking the car up and putting it on jackstands!

but i have done a few brake jobs in my day. i guess my biggest question is how to you get the pistons to retract. i know on some cars you can push them back in with a clamo, others you can turn and push, do the subaru brake pistons retract automatically? or do i have to persuade them? you guys are the best.
Jim

There may be another way, but the way I do it is with a clamp.

Andrew

If the rotors are stuck, you can also thread a pair of M8x1.25mm bolts into holes in the rotor machined in just for this purpose. If you thread them in evenly they'll pop the rotor off the hub. (If it's the rear, make sure the handbrake is released before you start!)

Also, if you're changing the rotors, I don't think you really need to loosen the 14mm bolts, since those just keep the caliper attached to the bracket. You want to separate the bracket from the hub, which is done by loosening a pair of 17mm bolts, I think.

After loosening the bleeder screws you should be able to just push the pistons in with your thumbs and significant effort.

These diagrams might help you:

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics/frontbrakes.gif
http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics/rearbrakes.gif

Ya, I use one of the old pads and a 5" C-clamp to push the piston (pistons on a turbo) back into the caliper.

legacy92ej22t wrote:Ya, I use one of the old pads and a 5" C-clamp to push the piston (pistons on a turbo) back into the caliper.

I use a brake pad and one of those brake piston resetting tools you find at autoparts stores.

I've found it easier to reset the piston when I have the master cylinder reservoir cap taken off.

That's it, I'm coming to this site for all my bru questions. On the jobs I've done in the past, I have had to bleed the brakes. Do I assume the same here. The reason why is I've got about 1.5 hrs of sunlight from when I get home to get the job done, so naturally I'll cut every corner I can. Thanks again guys, for the help.

boostjunkie wrote: I've found it easier to reset the piston when I have the master cylinder reservoir cap taken off.

Yes, I do that also.

thejimlab wrote: On the jobs I've done in the past, I have had to bleed the brakes. Do I assume the same here.

You do not have to but it may be a good idea depending on how long it's been since it was done. If you do, I'd probably change the fluid too if it's been a while. I have done it without bleeding the brake lines many times though and had absolutely no problems.

If you loosen the brake bleeder in order to push the piston in, then you do need to bleed the brakes, of course. And if you remove the caliper's brake hose, then you need to bleed too.

Of course, if it's been a while since you last changed your fluid (or if for any reason the fluid doesn't look nice and clear), you should change the fluid anyway. But you can postpone that until tomorrow if you just leave the calipers attached to the hoses (be sure not to let them hang from the hoses, though!) and force the pistons in without loosening the bleeder valves.

vrg3 wrote: But you can postpone that until tomorrow if you just leave the calipers attached to the hoses (be sure not to let them hang from the hoses, though!) and force the pistons in without loosening the bleeder valves.

Yes, this is the way I was reffering to. When doing it this way, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap as Jason said, it will make it easier.

Is there enough meat on Legacy rotors to turn them or is it recommended to replace rotors with new ones each time you do a brake job? I'm asking about rotors for a 94 Legacy wagon.

Stock pads good enough or anyone recommend an upgrade?

Thanks - Mark

Did a little more reading and found the answers. Thanks - Mark