legacycentral bbs

Will a clutch and flywheel for a WRX work in a T-Legacy?

I'm going to act on this deal:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... did=561656

Exedy clutch (Stage 1, Super-Street. It's not a super harsh clutch like an ACT, it's a standard style clutch for mildly modified applications. If they are going mildly modded for a WRX, then I should have NO problems) and the Exedy flywheel.

$719.99 Shipped. Kind of steep, but I won't ever need another clutch.

What do you guys think?

Any ideas on whether to get the ACT or the Exedy flywheel? The ACT is a 14.9 pound flywheel (roughly 10 pounds shy of stock). I don't have any info on the Exedy right now.

Thanks guys, I need the info ASAP so I can get this clutch installed before the second week of June!

I'm running an exedy flywheel that was meant for a WRX on mine and it works perfect. The clutch i have is the Grp N STi, which is almost guaranteed to be an exedy as well. JDM WRX pressure plate finishes up a very nice setup for me.

Awesome! Thanks Dave. I'll probably order the clutch and such tomorrow.

Oh, how do you like the Exedy flywheel? What does your car rev like? I found that the Exedy flywheel is only 12.7 pounds.

Exedy flywheel is the bomb. Nuff said. Absolutely no driveability problems. But when you blip for a downshift :shudders: it's beautiful.

fwiw i'm using an OEM wrx clutch setup. It's slightly larger than stock.

MK

Oh yeah, I also have a full WRX setup. It goes in just fine, especially if you get the STi tranny mount while you are in there

The exedy is the only flywheel I would get by the way. It is a solid one piece unit and the weight is perfect.

Awesome. I will probably pass on the tranny mount. I hear it's not good for the tranny (doesn't allow flex which puts more stress on the internals).

I should be ordering today

i thought it was flex that caused the damage?

Just to answer your question, and add to what Brat4by4 said, the exedy is just awesome. Craftsmanship was extremely good, and the performance is superb, with throttle blips being a piece of cake, especially with a low-compression engine.

As for the trans mount, i've had mine in for a few years, and i have to recommend it. I'm not hard on mine, but i'm also not babying it all of the time. I feel that it's probably worth any tradeoffs in noise and harshness for the improved shifting performance, engine feel and feedback.

As for internal damage, it'd take some convincing for me to agree that a stiffer mount could cause problems. Letting the trans case twist is never a good thing, and if a stiffer trans mount is combined with engine mounts, i'd say that it would be better off. Flex moves components away from their intended couplings, creating more stress in many ways. A stiffer transmission case would be ideal, not a more flexible one. Components usually break because of flex in these trannies.

yeah, i don't know where that info came from. I had a lot of synchro problems GO AWAY when I changed to the stiffer mount. It keeps everything lined up.

and you can't really beat that price for the package you mentioned.

Yea, I'll call tonight and see if I can get it sent out. I talked to Matt and we can probably do the clutch next week or the week after. I'm excited about getting it done

Brat - Did you get your engine and tranny mounts from Myles, or was it just the strut tops? I need to talk to him and see how soon he could get me the tranny mount.

How difficult are the engine mounts to install?

If you have a lift and the right tools, it's not terribly hard to change the engine mounts, but you will have to be able to jack up the engine somehow, which should be easier with the transmission uncoupled...

Just strut tops. I found some website that had all the STi mounts for half off retail... but I can't seem to find it anymore

The shop that did my clutch took the engine out instead of dropping the tranny, they said it was easier for them (i didn't care, same price for me with old hoses getting replaced on their bill). So it was absolutely nothing for them to put in the new mounts as they put everything back in.

Didn't they screw up a bunch of stuff when they put the engine back in though?

a little off-topic, but no. they found one thing unplugged or something like that. all it did was light up a CEL until they found it, then it went away. and it started to overheat on a test drive because there was a huge air pocket in the coolant. other than that, perfection... it's just those were pesky problems at the time until the answer was revealed.

in fact, like i mentioned before, i ended up with lots of new hoses and all new clamps. the place hooks me up.

Oh, cool...

Hm, Phil, maybe pulling the engine's another good option. I know pulling the engine is really easy if you have access to a crane. You remove the intake and washer tank, undo 6 bellhousing bolts (that includes the 2 starter bolts), separate the downpipe from the turbo and undo the one or two bolts holding it to the engine, and undo a few electrical connections and the radiator hoses. That's mostly it, I think.

My mechanic always pulls the engine - he says it's much easier and he's got a lift.

Steve

When I drop the car off on monday, I'll tell my mechanic to pull the engine and it'll be easier then.

Plus, with the engine out, it should be pie to lower the tranny a little bit to do the STi tranny mount.

get valve cover gaskets and whatnot done while it is so easy. and you might want to go degrease your junk while it is out... if he lets you.