legacycentral bbs

I got a HO alternator. I have to swap plug styles, no biggie. Only problem is that my alternator is a three wire connector, while the HO one is only a 2 wire, "sense" & "light"

On mine I have a "sense" "light" and "I" not sure what that one is, or if it just ties into one of the others.

here are the FSM pages for the alternator. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. I'd like to get this thing in, as my alternator is a piece of pooop!!!

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... nator1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... nator2.jpg

Links fixed

anyone????

vrg3?

The "I" terminal is "Ignition." The stock setup won't actually start producing any current unless it has 12 volts or so on that line to excite the alternator. That makes sure that when you turn your car off, the regulator and whatnot don't continue to draw power from the battery. The stock wiring connects the "I" terminal to the ignition relay, I believe.

It looks like your aftermarket alternator is self-exciting. You can check with the manufacturer to see if that is the case.

Self-exciting alternators trigger charging by being brought up to a certain RPM instead of by getting a signal from the ignition relay. After that RPM is reached, it should (if it's well designed) latch on and stay on until it gets to 0 RPM (when you shut the engine off). It should then turn off.

A self-exciting alternator is a little simpler to set up because it doesn't need an "Ignition" line, but you should just be aware of when it does and does not actually charge. It will almost certainly never give you any problem because your car ought to bring it up to the trigger speed right after startup, or, failing that, as soon as you start moving. You should probably ask the manufacturer for more information about it.

But, anyway, if I have things right, you can just connect the "Light" and "Sense" terminals and safely tie away the "Ignition" wire.

Thanks vrg3.

You're 100% correct. I got a PM from the guy I bought it from. He checked with his supplier that builds them, and said the same thing. Hopefully I can get this puppy in tonight.

Awesome. Let us all know how it goes.

By the way, where did you end up getting it from, and how much did you pay (if you don't mind my asking)? What's the current rating?

That was going to be my question as well as I'm running a fair amount of stereo stuff. So Josh, any details?

-Brian

I got it from a guy on the TXIC on nasioc. He looked into getting an upgraded unit for himself. Found a shop locally that did this. When he was researching it, he found out that the stock casing wasn't large enough. So what his supplier has done is use a difference casing or something, but anyway it fits in the stock location, he sends you a plug and you just have to splice it into the stock harness.

He sent a birth sheet with the alternator, it peaks out at about 150 amps at 6000 rpm. That rpm is alternator rpm. With moving and such, I haven't converted what the output would be for engine rpm, but it would be higher. I think Chad said his was putting out about 90 amps at idle.

He let me have it for $275 as an introductory rate. He's working on getting a website up and all that. I think he said he'll probably charge $300, but I'm not positive on that. His supplier has agreed only to sell these alternators through him, so you can't go to his supplier directly.

Chad's a good guy, he worked with me on dimensions, and making sure this would work on our cars. I don't know exactly what he's making on these, but it's not much. His nasioc name is ruiner.

I'll let ya know what my impressions are, and whether it was worth the money.

went to put this in last night, and ran into another problem. The lead that goes to the battery and main fuse block is too short! So I have strip all the loom, cut the wiring and solder another piece on with new connections.

All I have to say is this bastard better be worth all this effort.

Plus when I got it was making an intermittant noise, like something internally was hitting the case. The fan plate looks to be out of round and possibly causing the problem. I think it might have got damaged during shipping, so I'm going to call and see what my options are, he did insure it. I won't be able to install this thing until after I move and have all the tools I need.

On a side note. The old alternator spun much more freely then the new one did. Not sure if that indicates anything like bearings/brushes are severely worn....just thought I'd throw that out there.

When I replaced my alternator, the old/used one was much easier to turn than the new one. I was worried too, but it has been perfect ever since.

-Brian

Yeah, I would guess that would be a symptom of worn brushes.

An alternator has ball bearings packed in grease holding the spindle. What happens is that the grease oozes out over time, so the ball bearings dont have to fight it any more, but the grease is not longer there to lubricate the system. once the alt. is warmed up, it moves great, and its lubricated.

Can anyone tell me about ignition boosters? Do they help you burn more gas?

Trying to conserve threads....

Padishar Creel - Try doing a search for "MSD" and see what you come up with; it's been discussed before.