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Will these fit on a 91? Couldn't really find anything with search... Are there issues with the tapered rear springs?

as long as you have the 91 tophats there should be no problem

Nice. Thanks

oh, wait, full coilvers, no problem, you shouldnt even need the tophats if you arent using tapered springs

What about ones for a GD, will those work with 91 tophats?

Are you still talking about coil-overs? If so, they should fit just fine into your existing top MOUNTS. You don't need your tophats (upper spring perch) or anything else related with your old suspension except for the top mount.

The suspension SHOULD fit your existing top mount, but that is something you would need to check.

I've been thinking about buying a Tein Type-Flex coilover system (with EDFC) before buying the CES exhaust, but I don't think I'll see any benefit over a good AGX/Whiteline setup in the type of driving I do. The AGX/Whiteline setup will also cost me a lot less than the $1800 pricetag on the Tein's.

Most real coilover sets will come w/ everything you need. Just bolt in and go. The coilovers i am using are for a GC8.

MK

I'm talkin about cheap ones.. Can;t afford 1000$+ for a real set

How about some ground controls? Those are relatively cheap (~$400) www.ground-control.com

i like my whiteline/agx combo. I see no point in coilovers unless altering the ride height is important... but that's just me

Well, the main attribute of coilovers is not really their adjustability.

Rather, it's the mating of springs and shocks to creat a perfectly-balanced suspension and dampening package to improve handling beyond what springs and shocks not specifically made for each other can accomplish.

Adjustability is built-in to further accentuate the package by dialing-in ride height to lower the center of gravity, augment weight shifting during hard braking and hard accelleration, etc.

All this rolled into one package is a really good argument for most coilover systems' high prices.

when you have adjustable shocks though, can you not adjust the dampening level to your specific driving style with those springs?

Yes. . . but again, the springs and shocks, unless made by the same company to work specifically with each other, will seldom perform as balanced as a coilover system.

Your setup of fully-adjustable shocks and good springs is easily the next best thing, and far less expensive. . . especially for daily driving and the occasional autocross.

If I didn't have plans for making my car a racecar in a couple of years, I might not have gone to the expense of the Tien Flex system. In fact, I probably would have just spent around $300 on STi pinks to lower it. . . . rather than the $1500 for the whole shebang.

[nick cage]self indulgent weiner with too much bloody money![/nick cage]


:-p

I know.

nah... you didnt buy a ferarri, you bought something that you can actually drive.

Coilovers also allow you to corner weight the vehicle by adjusting individual height.

IN addition, coilovers offer a stiffer package than a standard coil on strut setup.

A downfall to coilovers, however, is that they don't allow the suspension to work to the best of it's ability without the addition of roll-center adjusters.

The roll-center is the imaginary point that the body of the car rolls around. The distance between this point and the center of gravity is the roll moment. That distance is the leverage that the car has to roll. When you lower the car (by threading down coilovers), you lower the CG, while the roll-center stays the same (roll center is a property of suspension setting, not location in it's travel. The roll center is the same at full extension and full compression of the suspension). When you lower the CG, the roll-moment increases, thus, more body roll. This is often countered by the use of sway bars, but those are only as good as the parts around them (endlinks and bushings). They only work to a point.

An adjustable roll-center brings the roll-moment back to a near stock level, which increases the handling ability almost PERFECTLY. While it's impossible to have the roll-center and the CG the same (as the suspension cycles, the CG constantly changes), you want the least amount of roll-moment as possible to prevent body-roll. With a really good setup, you can nearly eliminate body roll with no, or a very small sway bar. The Koenigsegg 8C uses a sway bar not much larger than that found in the SS, and it pulls a good 1G +.

A good suspension setup will consist of a set of quality coilovers, a set of camber links/plates, and a good set of adjustable roll-center links.

Ok, if everyone is finished jacking my thread...

1)Will GC/GD coil overs fit (just the spring part)?
2)What do I need to reuse?
3)Will the tapered rear springs matter?

Thanks

coilovers include the springs, dont they?

1)Will GC/GD coil overs fit (just the spring part)?
2)What do I need to reuse?
3)Will the tapered rear springs matter?

1) Yes, GC ones will
2) Everything except the old spring
3) No, the diameter of the new springs is as small if not smaller than the smallest diam of the tapered springs.

MK

Excellent. You all may continue threadjacking now

LaureltheQueen wrote:coilovers include the springs, dont they?

Yea, they do.

I just got a pretty good quote from a local custom shop around here (FedWay, WA) that will put on H&R lowerings and Tokiko(comp to KYB GR-2s) Struts for ~ $750, with the advice that they've done it once before on a similar legacy, with about a 2.5" drop. The only problem is that my 91 legacy is FWD (read 2WD) I guess my question is this: what is the difference in suspension components for 2wd and 4wd in the rear? and are the impreza suspension parts an okay choice for a 91 legacy sedan FWD?
Thanks,

the location where the strut mounts to the spindle is lower on the fwd models. Whatever it lowers an awd car, it will lower your fwd car ~2 inches more... in the rear only.

MK